Chris Kouba
Supporter
Randy,
Drop a line if you're anywhere near the NW. I need zero excuse to go on an adventure.
Randy's RCR40 MKI
- Thread starter Randy Folsom
- Start date
Randy,
Drop a line if you're anywhere near the NW. I need zero excuse to go on an adventure.
@ Randy, seems you are are quicker in uploding your pics and travel reportI decided to cut my travels short and postpone the west coast portion until the fall. Too hot and too many fires.
I had a great time at the GT40 Reunion despite it being more of a Superformance showcase. Met up with some fellow builders and learned a lot. The reunion was actually a part of annual vintage race car event. There were many iconic cars to check out.
I stopped by RCR where I spent time with Fran and Bill and also got a chance to meet Vicki. They were very generous with their time. I love seeing all the stuff they are working on.
From RCR I headed over to The Henry Ford Museum. My main focus was the Mk4 driven by Gurney and Foyt.
They also have the original Mustang. Ya gotta start somewhere.
I then drove the Gilmore Car Museum. I had never heard of it until Bill from RCR recommend it. It is fabulous. Just an amazing museum. I happened to be there on a Wednesday which is when they open the facility for car shows. Typically 300 cars, but can be as many as 700 entries. Reasonably priced food and drinks, and a live band make it totally worth the effort to get there.
Home
The Museum Creating Experiences that Connect People to the History, Heritage, and Social Impact of Automobiles. Unique Vehicles 435 Annual Visitors 130k…gilmorecarmuseum.org
I was planning to stop by the Shelby America Collection in Boulder, but it’s only open on Saturdays. Unfortunately, I will be in Sioux Falls this weekend and back in Austin by next Thursday.
We did the same tour - I will also update my travel thread once home....
Randy Folsom
Supporter
Back in the shop today. It was good to get away. Made new friends and met up with some forum members at the GT40 Reunion. Its also good to be back.
I received my shifter so decided to mess with that. Seems I can’t leave well enough alone. I am not sure if RCR has a source for brackets for the Quaife, but the ones I received are for the ZF. It probably won't matter since I might be using the shifter kit from Olthoff Racing. I'll find out next week. In the mean time I decided to see about make some changes to the shifter box.
Three things I wanted to address
Box Height: While I had the box on the work bench, I thought ‘why no reduce the height a bit’. There is about 5/16" of space between the lowest part of the linkage mechanism and the bottom of the box. I am not using the mounting tabs incorporated into the box (see Mounting below) so I decided that while I had the box apart, I might as well cut off the lower 1/4" of the box. 1/4" is not much, but I feel it will put the shift knob in a more favorable position.
Mounting: Since I am not using the provided parking brake I have those brackets available. To keep things simple I will weld the brackets to the inside of the shifter box. Fortunately, there is enough of clearance on the lower inside of the box. Taking into consideration the shorter box height, the brackets are positioned to provide a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the box and the top of the spine. I made sure to leave enough room for the insultation that will cover the spine. I am planning to put a cover over the spine. The forward end of the the cover will be fastened to the mounts. There will be a 1/2" gap between the spine cover and spine on the DS after taking into account insulation thickness. That should be enough room for brake lines, wiring harness and throttle cable.
This is how it was provided
This is with the cable brackets, shorter box, and mounts.
I received my shifter so decided to mess with that. Seems I can’t leave well enough alone. I am not sure if RCR has a source for brackets for the Quaife, but the ones I received are for the ZF. It probably won't matter since I might be using the shifter kit from Olthoff Racing. I'll find out next week. In the mean time I decided to see about make some changes to the shifter box.
Three things I wanted to address
- Cable Mounts
- Box Height
- Mounting
Box Height: While I had the box on the work bench, I thought ‘why no reduce the height a bit’. There is about 5/16" of space between the lowest part of the linkage mechanism and the bottom of the box. I am not using the mounting tabs incorporated into the box (see Mounting below) so I decided that while I had the box apart, I might as well cut off the lower 1/4" of the box. 1/4" is not much, but I feel it will put the shift knob in a more favorable position.
Mounting: Since I am not using the provided parking brake I have those brackets available. To keep things simple I will weld the brackets to the inside of the shifter box. Fortunately, there is enough of clearance on the lower inside of the box. Taking into consideration the shorter box height, the brackets are positioned to provide a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the box and the top of the spine. I made sure to leave enough room for the insultation that will cover the spine. I am planning to put a cover over the spine. The forward end of the the cover will be fastened to the mounts. There will be a 1/2" gap between the spine cover and spine on the DS after taking into account insulation thickness. That should be enough room for brake lines, wiring harness and throttle cable.
This is how it was provided
This is with the cable brackets, shorter box, and mounts.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I attached the legs to shifter box. It’s a bit different than the model above. The PS spine side is flush with box, while the DS is offset towards the spine 3/4" so that legs are flat against the spine.
It's hard to see in the pictures, but the box tilts down towards the back. I lowered it by cutting out about 1/2" at the back and 1/4" at the front. There is still room for the shift mechanism.
Enough for today. Tomorrow I will finish sand blasting and then powder coat it.
It's hard to see in the pictures, but the box tilts down towards the back. I lowered it by cutting out about 1/2" at the back and 1/4" at the front. There is still room for the shift mechanism.
Enough for today. Tomorrow I will finish sand blasting and then powder coat it.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
Changes were made during construction so he earlier CAD model is a bit off. This model is based on the result of my questionable fabrication efforts. DM me if interested in the STEP or Fusion 360 files.
Good effrot. Im running the ZF kit from CNC Performance parts. You cant beat the setup!
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I am pleased with how the shifter box mods came out. The lowered and rearward slope of the box make the shifter position more comfortable.
After a bit of sandblasting and powder coating it looks pretty good. Unfortunately, I will be covering my art work with a center console.
Next is to figure out where to drill holes for the cables. There are some 1" square tube braces on the aft side of the bulkhead just above where the spine exits that prevent drilling two holes side by side centered over the spline. I should be receiving the Olthoff shifter kit soon so I can also work out the cable routing in the engine bay.
After a bit of sandblasting and powder coating it looks pretty good. Unfortunately, I will be covering my art work with a center console.
Next is to figure out where to drill holes for the cables. There are some 1" square tube braces on the aft side of the bulkhead just above where the spine exits that prevent drilling two holes side by side centered over the spline. I should be receiving the Olthoff shifter kit soon so I can also work out the cable routing in the engine bay.
Last edited:
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I am guessing that you’re running a ZF transaxle. I don’t see anything from CNC performance that will work with the Quaife.
ZF / Quaife / RBT.... works on all of them.
Attachments
Randy Folsom
Supporter
While I wait for the Olthoff kit, I decided to sort out the brake lines. The online build manual has cleverly labeled the brake line installation as Plumbing and has pictures from a RHD car.
I thought about running the clutch and rear brake lines through the sponsons then on second thought, decided this is not a good idea because it would require drilling a hole from the interior into the sponson. I don't want to take a chance that fuel vapors would somehow find there way into the interior. I also wonder why the rear brake lines are split left and right in the front of the car instead of after exiting the spine. I thought about reworking the to a single line going back, but decided to stick with the RCR design.
After straightening out the clutch and rear brake lines, I laid out all the lines on the floor. I then laid out all the fittings and found that I was missing a female to female couple.
I am glad I read the online manual. Pay attention to the bulk head fittings, one of these is not like the others. The clutch circuit uses the odd-one-out which is a male flare instead of NPT.
It was a bit of a puzzle, but I think I figured it out.
The RCR kit does not include fittings for connecting the flex lines to the MC so I bought three 1/8 NPT to 3AN Fitting - 90 Degree Male Elbow Adapter (Steel): https://a.co/d/3iKiymA
I thought about running the clutch and rear brake lines through the sponsons then on second thought, decided this is not a good idea because it would require drilling a hole from the interior into the sponson. I don't want to take a chance that fuel vapors would somehow find there way into the interior. I also wonder why the rear brake lines are split left and right in the front of the car instead of after exiting the spine. I thought about reworking the to a single line going back, but decided to stick with the RCR design.
After straightening out the clutch and rear brake lines, I laid out all the lines on the floor. I then laid out all the fittings and found that I was missing a female to female couple.
I am glad I read the online manual. Pay attention to the bulk head fittings, one of these is not like the others. The clutch circuit uses the odd-one-out which is a male flare instead of NPT.
It was a bit of a puzzle, but I think I figured it out.
The RCR kit does not include fittings for connecting the flex lines to the MC so I bought three 1/8 NPT to 3AN Fitting - 90 Degree Male Elbow Adapter (Steel): https://a.co/d/3iKiymA
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I found a nice way to ‘wrap’ the brake lines so they don’t rattle in the tunnel.
I bought two inexpensive 10’ rolls of 3/16” ID x 5/16 OD polyethylene tubing at the big blue box store. I then sliced it lengthwise and ‘zipped’ it on.
The slicer is one of those quick wins that made my day. I drilled a slightly oversized hole in the end if a scape of Oak and then hammered a safety razor blade in at an angle. It worked perfectly.
I bought two inexpensive 10’ rolls of 3/16” ID x 5/16 OD polyethylene tubing at the big blue box store. I then sliced it lengthwise and ‘zipped’ it on.
The slicer is one of those quick wins that made my day. I drilled a slightly oversized hole in the end if a scape of Oak and then hammered a safety razor blade in at an angle. It worked perfectly.
Attachments
Randy Folsom
Supporter
I ended up replacing one of the short twisty tubes. It was the piece that connects the rear brake line to the bulkhead connection that was bent to specifically fit a RHD setup. I used a bit of 3/16” Nickel Copper from the Cobra build so it was easy to bend by hand. The fittings now go together nicely so there less chance of a leak caused by forcing the fitting into position.
I was going to finish installing the lines today, but with temps well above 100, I decided to stay inside.
I was going to finish installing the lines today, but with temps well above 100, I decided to stay inside.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
My understanding is that it is because the MC is below the caliper. That would result in the fluid draining and overflowing the brake reservoir. That sounds reasonable, but the kit doesn’t include one for the clutch. I wonder if adding one to that line is a good idea.
Neil
Supporter
A residual pressure valve also keeps the brake pads from retracting back into the calipers, which causes a long pedal stroke on first application. The low residual pressure in the brake line also keeps seals tight.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
Neil,
Thx much for the clarification. Is there a need for a valve on the clutch line?
Cheers,
Randy
Howard Jones
Supporter
Neil is right. I actually ran my car without them ONCE. The result was an internment long brake peddle at the beginning of the brake zone. Not good.
I have never seen one used on a clutch hyd system. No caliper and brake pads?
I have never seen one used on a clutch hyd system. No caliper and brake pads?
Last edited:
The guys have got it right about the brakes. There is not one per say for the clutch, however Tilton offers this valve for the clutch. I have purchased one and will be incorporating it in my Lola build
tiltonracing.com
Regards Brian
Flow Control Valve
Tilton's flow control valve is designed to reduce the chance of losing traction when downshifting and/or the chance of damaging driveline components.
tiltonracing.com
Regards Brian
Randy Folsom
Supporter
Brian,The guys have got it right about the brakes. There is not one per say for the clutch, however Tilton offers this valve for the clutch. I have purchased one and will be incorporating it in my Lola build
Flow Control Valve
Tilton's flow control valve is designed to reduce the chance of losing traction when downshifting and/or the chance of damaging driveline components.
Regards Brian
The website says it reduces shock loads. Seems like money well spent. Especially, with your mild engine build
Cheers, Randy
