Ken Roberts
Supporter
I had explored tapping the coolant lines in the front years ago and discovered from real world experience from some of the builders that did use this method that the heater output was poor as a result.
Mason’s Build: Superlite SLC
- Thread starter MasonS
- Start date
Jasper, I'm now a graduate of the HP Academy Wiring fundamentals course, really great info and now looking forward to the Club Sport Wiring Harness course. The SCL and DR-25 products look fantastic.
Ken, thanks for sharing your practical experience with the heater line tapping conversation. I'm in Seattle area and will need the heater working well for our chilly winters. So I guress I will not be saving the weight of the extra heater lines!
Ken, thanks for sharing your practical experience with the heater line tapping conversation. I'm in Seattle area and will need the heater working well for our chilly winters. So I guress I will not be saving the weight of the extra heater lines!
Congrats Mason.. be careful how far you end up tumbling down this rabbit hole 
I also did club sport, and then motorsport.. and the more you see, the more expensive your taste becomes! You can not un-see things, remember that.
If you have any questions w.r.t. wiring, crimpers, terminals, whatever.. give me a shout. Especially on LS's, I've done 3 complete wiring harnesses to this motorsport-ish spec by now.
I also did club sport, and then motorsport.. and the more you see, the more expensive your taste becomes! You can not un-see things, remember that.
If you have any questions w.r.t. wiring, crimpers, terminals, whatever.. give me a shout. Especially on LS's, I've done 3 complete wiring harnesses to this motorsport-ish spec by now.
I'm getting ready to hook up my drivetrain since I received all of my custom parts from RCR yesterday, thanks Fran!
My graziano install kit is missing all hardware, can someone confirm what size of ARP bolts are used for attaching the clutch to the flywheel?
I found these M6x70 bolts but I am curious if this is the exact part I need.
ARP Kit #: 770-1011 Metric Thread Bolt Kit ARP Stainless M6 x 1.00 70mm UHL
I also need to source the threaded rods for mounting the transmission, do these have the same threads on both ends? Or does it have both LH and RH threads?
My graziano install kit is missing all hardware, can someone confirm what size of ARP bolts are used for attaching the clutch to the flywheel?
I found these M6x70 bolts but I am curious if this is the exact part I need.
ARP Kit #: 770-1011 Metric Thread Bolt Kit ARP Stainless M6 x 1.00 70mm UHL
I also need to source the threaded rods for mounting the transmission, do these have the same threads on both ends? Or does it have both LH and RH threads?
If just shy of an interference fit (IE, tight - but not real tight), I think I would forgo staking in favor of using a Stud & Bearing locker like Loctite Red.
Hello Hector,
Here is a fantastic PDF from Allan that shows all the measurements for attaching fittings on the Graziano.
I used that document to order the right AN fittings for the oil cooler hose loop and the clutch hose fitting.
Since I'm installing with a BMW S85 engine I ran into some unique problems for fitting the graziano.
#1 Setting the crank sensor gap to the tone wheel. This involved removing the O-ring from the original BMW crank sensor and drilling the mounting block a 0.5mm groove to allow the sensor to get closer to the tone wheel. The factory spec is 0.55mm gap.
#2 The crank sensor wire needs to be routed around the mounting block so it doesn't get pinched by the trans adapter plate and so that it runs through the hole where the factory starter was mounted.
#3 I had to cut the output shaft off the Graz, so that it only protrudes by 1/4" from the mounting face (Fran discourages this, but my graz was 2nd hand and the shaft was already trimmed back).
Also this sucker is hardened steel and very slow to cut with a grinder. Halfway through cutting this part my grinding disc shattered, so word to the wise use two fresh grinding discs and go slow! I was wearing full protection so the shrapnel was not an issue.
#4 I'm still waiting on the high strength clutch mounting bolts / Engine bolts / Trans bolts so this is just a test fit for me to Fabricate new rear engine mounts.
This engine is TIGHT the clearance is about 2-3cm max in all dimensions, so these mock fittings are extremely important.
Also, big shout out to Dani G for doing a video call and going over all the gotchas on his V10 build.
His big takeaways were.
Here is a fantastic PDF from Allan that shows all the measurements for attaching fittings on the Graziano.
I used that document to order the right AN fittings for the oil cooler hose loop and the clutch hose fitting.
Since I'm installing with a BMW S85 engine I ran into some unique problems for fitting the graziano.
#1 Setting the crank sensor gap to the tone wheel. This involved removing the O-ring from the original BMW crank sensor and drilling the mounting block a 0.5mm groove to allow the sensor to get closer to the tone wheel. The factory spec is 0.55mm gap.
#2 The crank sensor wire needs to be routed around the mounting block so it doesn't get pinched by the trans adapter plate and so that it runs through the hole where the factory starter was mounted.
#3 I had to cut the output shaft off the Graz, so that it only protrudes by 1/4" from the mounting face (Fran discourages this, but my graz was 2nd hand and the shaft was already trimmed back).
Also this sucker is hardened steel and very slow to cut with a grinder. Halfway through cutting this part my grinding disc shattered, so word to the wise use two fresh grinding discs and go slow! I was wearing full protection so the shrapnel was not an issue.
#4 I'm still waiting on the high strength clutch mounting bolts / Engine bolts / Trans bolts so this is just a test fit for me to Fabricate new rear engine mounts.
This engine is TIGHT the clearance is about 2-3cm max in all dimensions, so these mock fittings are extremely important.
Also, big shout out to Dani G for doing a video call and going over all the gotchas on his V10 build.
His big takeaways were.
- My E60 overflow tank is too big and will not fit under the body He used an E90 328 tank.
- Get the best rear view camera and screen you can afford, since rear view visibility is bad.
- Extend the ECU harness and move the computer to top of firewall to avoid water damage.
- Add an Accelerometer to control the extra oil pumps (Bosch 027310321)
- Grind clearance into the intake plenum for the throttle actuator rods
- Plug all air leaks for the intake and for the radiator for maximum cooling efficiency
- Smooth roads are heaven and rough roads are your worst nightmare
- The attention this thing draws can be overwhelming, people rubberneck and almost cause accidents just to photograph the car
- Gas station visits can take quite a while
Thanks Dave C, I’m glad you are enjoying the build. I’m hoping that this project can be on the road in less than 2 years and that this build thread can help others with dreams of V10 symphonies.
The steel shaft is for cars with AWD and will not be used in this build, so no worries about heat fatigued steel.
Also, the correct part number for the accelerometer is “Bosch Accelerometer Pressure Sensor OEM Part number 0273101021“
The steel shaft is for cars with AWD and will not be used in this build, so no worries about heat fatigued steel.
Also, the correct part number for the accelerometer is “Bosch Accelerometer Pressure Sensor OEM Part number 0273101021“
Thank you for all the detail . I should be there soon .Hello Hector,
Here is a fantastic PDF from Allan that shows all the measurements for attaching fittings on the Graziano.
I used that document to order the right AN fittings for the oil cooler hose loop and the clutch hose fitting.
Since I'm installing with a BMW S85 engine I ran into some unique problems for fitting the graziano.
#1 Setting the crank sensor gap to the tone wheel. This involved removing the O-ring from the original BMW crank sensor and drilling the mounting block a 0.5mm groove to allow the sensor to get closer to the tone wheel. The factory spec is 0.55mm gap.
View attachment 107844
#2 The crank sensor wire needs to be routed around the mounting block so it doesn't get pinched by the trans adapter plate and so that it runs through the hole where the factory starter was mounted.
View attachment 107843
#3 I had to cut the output shaft off the Graz, so that it only protrudes by 1/4" from the mounting face (Fran discourages this, but my graz was 2nd hand and the shaft was already trimmed back).
Also this sucker is hardened steel and very slow to cut with a grinder. Halfway through cutting this part my grinding disc shattered, so word to the wise use two fresh grinding discs and go slow! I was wearing full protection so the shrapnel was not an issue.
View attachment 107845
#4 I'm still waiting on the high strength clutch mounting bolts / Engine bolts / Trans bolts so this is just a test fit for me to Fabricate new rear engine mounts.
This engine is TIGHT the clearance is about 2-3cm max in all dimensions, so these mock fittings are extremely important.
View attachment 107846
Also, big shout out to Dani G for doing a video call and going over all the gotchas on his V10 build.
His big takeaways were.
Living with the SLC:
- My E60 overflow tank is too big and will not fit under the body
- Get the best rear view camera and screen you can afford, since rear view visibility is bad.
- Extend the ECU harness and move the computer to top of firewall to avoid water damage.
- Add an Accelerometer to control the extra oil pumps (Bosch 027310321)
- Grind clearance into the intake plenum for the throttle actuator rods
- Plug all air leaks for the intake and for the radiator for maximum cooling efficiency
- Smooth roads are heaven and rough roads are your worst nightmare
- The attention this thing draws can be overwhelming, people rubberneck and almost cause accidents just to photograph the car
- Gas station visits can take quite a while
Happy to report that my V10 is now singing (quite loudly) after a tricky 2 weeks of troubleshooting engine timing problems.
After checking that the timing was correct I was still getting a knock sound from the left bank of cylinders. After ordering a set of timing tools and pulling apart the Vanos gears, it turns out that the previous owner had incorrectly assembled the Vanos gear!
Because of this the Vanos variable valve timing was losing sync on that one cam. After reassembly I can finally rev her beyond 900rpm!
I also learned that I need to invest in some catalytic converters or resonators because the engine is deafening when running solely the Eisenmann Race mufflers. My neighbors to the south also contacted me to let me know how excited they were about my project.
Now I need to tackle a shrinking list of items before I go on my first go cart ride.
After checking that the timing was correct I was still getting a knock sound from the left bank of cylinders. After ordering a set of timing tools and pulling apart the Vanos gears, it turns out that the previous owner had incorrectly assembled the Vanos gear!
Because of this the Vanos variable valve timing was losing sync on that one cam. After reassembly I can finally rev her beyond 900rpm!
I also learned that I need to invest in some catalytic converters or resonators because the engine is deafening when running solely the Eisenmann Race mufflers. My neighbors to the south also contacted me to let me know how excited they were about my project.
Now I need to tackle a shrinking list of items before I go on my first go cart ride.
This is the stock color combination of my car. I will try lots of colors with plasti dip, like Cam is doing , but I do like the blue with gold rims though.
Cam, thanks sir! Your car was an inspiration to me!
I've started conversing with various exhaust manufacturers that build systems for the Audi R8 V10+. I believe I can use one of those off the shelf exhausts but that means the Race Tail and Stock diffuser are getting cut up or replaced.
Top contenders for exhausts are the following:
Hector, I LOVE your car color combo. What colors of dip are you going to try?
I'm going to do gold titanium and heat shield and wheels LOL. I'm going full NASA back there.
I've started conversing with various exhaust manufacturers that build systems for the Audi R8 V10+. I believe I can use one of those off the shelf exhausts but that means the Race Tail and Stock diffuser are getting cut up or replaced.
Top contenders for exhausts are the following:
- Quicksilver Audi R8 V10 Active Titan Sport Exhaust (2016-19) (Titanium/SS Hybrid)
- Avior Resonated Exhaust (Full Ti)
Hector, I LOVE your car color combo. What colors of dip are you going to try?
I'm going to do gold titanium and heat shield and wheels LOL. I'm going full NASA back there.
Funny you say that, the Eisenmann race exhaust seems louder than running straight headers.
I’m thinking dual 12” resonators and then a valved exhaust. The valve can help longer trips be more comfortable.
