Ken Roberts
Supporter
I'd recommend tossing the aluminum rod end washers and replacing with steel versions. Search for "ball joint rod end inserts" on McMaster Carr.
Alex's SLC build thread
- Thread starter Alexr59
- Start date
I will, I will send you a PM.
thank you!
They're called safety retaining washers for rod ends.
www.pegasusautoracing.com
Only use steel ones.
I don't know why RCR uses aluminum ones - when you torque the bolt down they will almost always seize onto the shank of the bolt, making removal an absolute SOB. I did up my SL-C's suspension with the aluminum ones, then decided to replace w/ the steel and it was the most miserable uninstall ever. Learned my lesson on my 917 .... all of the aluminum ones went right into the garbage on day 1.
Safety Retaining Washer for Rod End Bearings - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Most racing groups require Safety Retaining Washers on rod end bearings in case the ball separates from the housing. We offer washers in SAE and metric sizes.
Only use steel ones.
I don't know why RCR uses aluminum ones - when you torque the bolt down they will almost always seize onto the shank of the bolt, making removal an absolute SOB. I did up my SL-C's suspension with the aluminum ones, then decided to replace w/ the steel and it was the most miserable uninstall ever. Learned my lesson on my 917 .... all of the aluminum ones went right into the garbage on day 1.
Joel K
Supporter
Alex, keep in mind the width of the metal ones are different so you will need some different width washers as well.
Happy new years to you all! I wish you all a lot of fun on your project for 2025!
Long break for me, not as so much done on the car that I wanted and not enough pictures but this is what is done:
fitting is pretty good, front brackets are installed but not the lateral brackets yet as I am not sure where is the best place to install them with the big air duct. Do you think I can mount the bracket on the air duct? to support the splitter and hood? next step will be front hinges.
the big disappointment is that I took the carbon fiber splitter (400$ more) and the quality is horrible (it was all taped up so i didn't see before): spider crack, carbon sheet junction right in a middle, fiber not straight.... I will have to paint it because it looks bad
Long break for me, not as so much done on the car that I wanted and not enough pictures but this is what is done:
- I received the missing parts for my rear hinges and installation is finished. I still need to fine tune the position of the rear hood with the hinge.
- spider position completely finished and spider bolted to the body, fits pretty good overall, pretty happy with that (still need to bolt the "rockers" to the "floor" as one side seams to sag and spread a little)
- front hood adjusted properly and splitter installed.
fitting is pretty good, front brackets are installed but not the lateral brackets yet as I am not sure where is the best place to install them with the big air duct. Do you think I can mount the bracket on the air duct? to support the splitter and hood? next step will be front hinges.
the big disappointment is that I took the carbon fiber splitter (400$ more) and the quality is horrible (it was all taped up so i didn't see before): spider crack, carbon sheet junction right in a middle, fiber not straight.... I will have to paint it because it looks bad
Attachments
thank you Joel! Very good picture, I wish I saw that before! my tabs were down on the final assembly, but removing the U shape bracket make a lot of sense! The top is easy to change, the bottom I hope it is in the same location so i can mount it the same way, it is much better!
do you have a picture on the lateral bracket by any chance?
do you have a picture on the lateral bracket by any chance?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Be aware that the race splitter needs additional fabrication on the bottom before installing. It's sold as a shell only. You need to fabricate the bottom surface with wood. This gives it more strength. As is, it's easily damaged.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
thanks Ken !
Yes I am and I saw that on the front hinge discussion.
for the plywood, I didn't realize. Do you have the track splitter? how did you do it?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I have both styles of splitter. I'm just about to start building my wood base for the race splitter. Templates out of cardboard will be designed first. I don't care for the look of visible bolts at the front so I plan to bond it in place with adhesive.
When building yours.....keep in mind that the tunnels need to be left fully open.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Most just leave it raw wood.
I got excited with all the info so i spend time in the garage yesterday. Now I have a lot more questions !
trying to install the hinges on the front, this is what I have as position:
(@Jkviper top mount is modified, bottom is pretty fare out, not sure what I will do )
what is the right position forward (flush with the edge of the panel?
what is the right position up and down?
I know spacers are needed with track splitter, it is for clearance or just due to the splitter shape? maybe it is possible to modify the hinge mount instead? @KENS80V
the front hood mount in not parallel to the "bracket" in the mounting area, how do you compensate for this angle?
Also do you know if any build thread mounted a track splitter? I would love some pictures of the fitting as I am doubting the position now.
it is flush with the hood, but a lot will need to be cut to clear the wheel turning on the tunnels and when lifting the car, wheel drop so much that they touch.
trying to install the hinges on the front, this is what I have as position:
(@Jkviper top mount is modified, bottom is pretty fare out, not sure what I will do )what is the right position forward (flush with the edge of the panel?
what is the right position up and down?
I know spacers are needed with track splitter, it is for clearance or just due to the splitter shape? maybe it is possible to modify the hinge mount instead? @KENS80V
the front hood mount in not parallel to the "bracket" in the mounting area, how do you compensate for this angle?
Also do you know if any build thread mounted a track splitter? I would love some pictures of the fitting as I am doubting the position now.
it is flush with the hood, but a lot will need to be cut to clear the wheel turning on the tunnels and when lifting the car, wheel drop so much that they touch.
Attachments
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I'd back up a bit and get caught up on other areas first. I wouldn't mount the nose hinges till you know the Spyder is in its final position. Is your door alignment done? Is your windshield mounted? Both of those items will have an effect on the spiders final position. How about your wheel alignment? In my opinion the radiator and all items should be placed in the nose and the headlights installed in the hood. The bottom side of the race splitter should also be finished before mounting the nose hinges.
Thanks Ken. Spider and hoods are aligned in final position but still need to do the door and windshield to confirm, so that might be the next step.
Wheel alignment is done with the spider in the actual position and the radiator... are done, I removed them to be able to work on the splitter
Wheel alignment is done with the spider in the actual position and the radiator... are done, I removed them to be able to work on the splitter
Joel K
Supporter
Alex,
A few comments.
The whole hinge can be moved rearward a bit so the front of the hinge protrudes less. Keep in mind those three holes and backing plate need to line up with body to secure it. So wherever that spot is, is where you want to mount the hinge(Fore-aft position).
As Ken suggested, installing the radiator will set the width of the front compartment and that will then dictate the gap between the pivot plate and body. If it is still too large a gap, have the spacer machined down.
A few builders have used a mixture of epoxy, fiberglass, silica, etc and sandwiched that material in a plastic baggie to make a shim that matches the contour and fills the gap. Check out Dan Carter’s SLC build for how he made his shims. I may build that area of the body up with fiberglass which would add more strength so not sure about my approach yet.
Most builders cut away a circular area on the rear of the splitter. They make sure it clears when the wheels move side to side and when the nose lift is engaged.
Keep up the great work!
A few comments.
The whole hinge can be moved rearward a bit so the front of the hinge protrudes less. Keep in mind those three holes and backing plate need to line up with body to secure it. So wherever that spot is, is where you want to mount the hinge(Fore-aft position).
As Ken suggested, installing the radiator will set the width of the front compartment and that will then dictate the gap between the pivot plate and body. If it is still too large a gap, have the spacer machined down.
A few builders have used a mixture of epoxy, fiberglass, silica, etc and sandwiched that material in a plastic baggie to make a shim that matches the contour and fills the gap. Check out Dan Carter’s SLC build for how he made his shims. I may build that area of the body up with fiberglass which would add more strength so not sure about my approach yet.
Most builders cut away a circular area on the rear of the splitter. They make sure it clears when the wheels move side to side and when the nose lift is engaged.
Keep up the great work!
thank you for all the info Joel!
This week end I started the door installation.
I used the marks from the factory to drill and cut to do a first installation.
Then I created a reinforcement with a aluminum plate for the interior of the body based on the first fitting
Final installation was of course a little off, after adding that plate, and cut outs had to be adjusted. I glued the plate with epoxy and added a couple of bolts at the bottom of it. Don't judge my bolts, I have no washers as I didn't have the right length, so this is temporary until I receive the right ones! lol
This is the fitting with minimum cut out in the door, I my need to improve the fitting by making the holes bigger in the door when I install the reinforcement
Doors are opening now! only passenger side pictures, but i got the same results on booth sides
I already have reinforcement to epoxy in the interior of the door, but it will be for the next week end! Do I need one plate inside and one plate outside of the door or I can do it by only gluing one inside? it will look much cleaner
Also the hinges are always rubbing inside when opening the doors, anything to improve this issue?
I used the marks from the factory to drill and cut to do a first installation.
Then I created a reinforcement with a aluminum plate for the interior of the body based on the first fitting
Final installation was of course a little off, after adding that plate, and cut outs had to be adjusted. I glued the plate with epoxy and added a couple of bolts at the bottom of it. Don't judge my bolts, I have no washers as I didn't have the right length, so this is temporary until I receive the right ones! lol
This is the fitting with minimum cut out in the door, I my need to improve the fitting by making the holes bigger in the door when I install the reinforcement
Doors are opening now! only passenger side pictures, but i got the same results on booth sides
I already have reinforcement to epoxy in the interior of the door, but it will be for the next week end! Do I need one plate inside and one plate outside of the door or I can do it by only gluing one inside? it will look much cleaner
Also the hinges are always rubbing inside when opening the doors, anything to improve this issue?