SLC 24 Howard Jones
- Thread starter Howard Jones
- Start date
Howard Jones
Supporter
Here's the bleed line from the radiator aa well as the intake manifold bleeds. As you can see I needed to bend up some 1/4 alum tubing ad run it back from the front of the car. It's 5052 by the way.
I haven't desided what I am going to use the roof scoop for yet. I may vent it into the engine room or............use it for cabin air. Don't know yet.
I haven't desided what I am going to use the roof scoop for yet. I may vent it into the engine room or............use it for cabin air. Don't know yet.
Attachments
Last edited:
Howard Jones
Supporter
Mo, It came from Lowes.
I made a catch tank. These are required at most tracks. It is a 4X10X1/8 inch piece of 6061 tubing. It holds 2 quarts. It will have the vent/overflow line run out the back of the car. You can see the unfilled bung on the top. This is the last piece of the coolant system.
The last picture gives you a good idea why I moved around the fuel fill and how I packaged the rest of the stuff I wanted to locate in that area. All filled up now.
I made a catch tank. These are required at most tracks. It is a 4X10X1/8 inch piece of 6061 tubing. It holds 2 quarts. It will have the vent/overflow line run out the back of the car. You can see the unfilled bung on the top. This is the last piece of the coolant system.
The last picture gives you a good idea why I moved around the fuel fill and how I packaged the rest of the stuff I wanted to locate in that area. All filled up now.
Attachments
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Good to know. I've looked everywhere for the 1 1/2" foam locally, but to no avail. I found some online, but even that wasn't simple.
Being the topic is coolant plumbing, I'll ask a question:
If one were to use an extremely small expansion tank (perhaps only 10 oz), with an overflow line to a larger catch tank, Is there any maximum head that one should not exceed (which would prevent the coolant from being sucked back into the block as it cools down)?
Last edited:
Howard Jones
Supporter
Off the top of my head: If the tip of the tube that extends into the overflow tank is higher than the lowest point in the coolent system (water jacket in block) then it should work. The problem might be that the headertank is not full and I wonder if it will pull a suction past the air pocket at the top of the header tank.
I am using mine as a catch tank, only to prevent overflow being pumped onto the track.
10 0z is pretty small. I wouldn't go much smaller than 1.25 quarts. Mine is 1.75 quarts. If I had more room I would have gone to at least 2 quarts.
Anybody?
I am using mine as a catch tank, only to prevent overflow being pumped onto the track.
10 0z is pretty small. I wouldn't go much smaller than 1.25 quarts. Mine is 1.75 quarts. If I had more room I would have gone to at least 2 quarts.
Anybody?
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
I wondered about that as well, but rationalized (incorrectly or correctly) that whatever fluid is transfered through the vent tubing, through the remote overflow tank, and into the catch tank will be replenished in the reverse upon cool-down. Now is the time to find out if that idea is not viable. A previous project used an inline fill cap that dumped and pulled from an overflow tank, so I'm guessing this should work as well.
I went to Lowes today, and the largest tube insulation size they carry is the 1" insulation (both in rubber and poly). Fortunately, they also carry 1 1/2" copper tubing, so I compared products and found the poly is not flexible enougth to cover the 1 1/2" tube. The rubber though could be slightly stretched (it will comfortably fit a 1 1/4" tube) to fit. My concern is rubber (correct my ignorance on this if wrong) shrinks when exposed to heat, which then means this will get even tighter when in use. Anyway, I purchased a couple of joints and will try it out tonight.
Last edited:
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Howard Jones
Supporter
I think it is very necessary. All that heat is going to be soaked up by the alum chassis rails and they are going to be at the water temp in no time. The best idea is to keep as much heat inside he tubing as possible. This car is going to be hot enough inside without adding to the problem.
I think the foam insulation might be 1.25. I seam to remember stretching it a little before I glued it together.
I think the foam insulation might be 1.25. I seam to remember stretching it a little before I glued it together.
Well, I believe some heat amelioration is needed. But, using heat reflective material such as shielding used in my track Viper would work. The Viper has side exhaust pipes under the rockers and without reflective shielding, would virtually melt your shoe soles on the track or burn your legs exiting the car. As long as you can control engine overheating the foam will be fine as well. Some Viper guys vent the rocker panels fore and aft to aid heat dissipation.
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
I test-fitted it last night, and the "one inch" rubber insulation will fit around the 1 1/2" tubing with a little messaging. A tight fit, but doable. The wall is 1/2" thick.
Howard Jones
Supporter
I decided to work on something that I didn't need to buy anything to do. I have quite a lot of alum sheet around the garage so I made one side of the interior paneling. This different than everybody's else's car. I have the prototype roll cage in mine and most of the streetcar version fiberglass interior panels won't work because the cage in in the way.
So I made the right side sill cover out of alum sheet. It will work fine and before I put them in the car for good I'll seal the edges with some foam tape and cover the backsides with insulation material to keep the heat out as much as possible without adding too much weight.
You can see the before picture of the drivers side with the gap clearly visable. The passenger side gap is coverd up nicely. Now I just need to make one more.
So I made the right side sill cover out of alum sheet. It will work fine and before I put them in the car for good I'll seal the edges with some foam tape and cover the backsides with insulation material to keep the heat out as much as possible without adding too much weight.
You can see the before picture of the drivers side with the gap clearly visable. The passenger side gap is coverd up nicely. Now I just need to make one more.
Attachments
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Nice work! I ordered the 1 3/8" McMaster-Carr rubber insulation, and if fits great, but the seam glue is not quite the quality of the Lowes brand.
