RCR GT40 Cinderella in France

Markus, Paul, Randy,
Thank's a lot for those precisions. I found in my stock of parts the black bushings. For me those part were part of an engine mount, now I know !
It seems less pratical to use the bobblin instead the rotation on a shaft, but I suppose this was faster to access to the front parts, during a race in the pit stop.
So ``your" front clam is mounted to rotate on a shaft? As you say, that's probably better for everyday use (no need for disconnecting wires and hoses, little space needed in front of the car to open). The bobbin setup is quicker when you need to swap the entire nose in case of damage or to get full access to the front. I have the latter system and, while I've removed the front shell by myself, it's a much easier job for 2 people.
Regarding the ``cylinder" in the 2nd picture: you'll have to remove the filler unit anyway to check that the venting system is set up properly with a valve in case of a rollover. If your tanks are not connected (as in my case) there should be another venting system on the other side? I went through all this because I had a fuel leak in the filler system (leaving puddles at the gas station). Fortunately, my car came with fuel cells (air-craft style bladder system). So no need for action there.
Happy building!
 
Walter, the front clam is mounted on a shaft, (2nd photo) that is easier to move when I am alone, meaning allways !
I found the two bushing to guide the "bobbling opening" and made a photo of one in place (1st photo)
Regarding the part near the gas tank filler,, I removed the two screws on side and it is use to vent the gas tank.
Thank you all of you for those advices.

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Today, I removed the front and back clam shells, and I discover that the front wheel seem to touch the body near the gas tank, and also the back of the arch on each side.
As a reminder the car never took the road, but only did a few turns in a parking lot. The adjustments on the suspensions are probably not the good ones but what is stange is that all the triangles are adjusted with washers to push them front. It means that if I want to adjust the wheel and make a move to the back if necessary, it will be impossible.
The tires are Avon CR6ZZ 215x60/15.
Any idea of what to do ?
 

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Randy V

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RCR recommends spacing the front lower control arms all the way forward in order to get the better positive caster angle as well as better clearance to the sills and body…. If you are running tires wider than 205 on the front, you may need to do some trimming of the sill covers. I used 225/50 tires on the front of mine and still needed a mild trim on the sill covers.
 
I changed all the gaskets of the parts making up the injection. After reassembling, the tension of the throttle cable had to be adjusted on the capstan, which was new because before, the cable acted on a small lever on the side, not through the capstan.

This forced several modifications to the bottom bracket for the end stop but also for the cable to slide without restraint. But it seems to be working. I just had to change an aviation hose that had a leaking fitting to be able to restart the engine, but impossible to redo the hose in question. I had bought dash6 hose from GT2i 2 months ago in anticipation of the hoses to be replaced, but I can't manage to assemble the fittings. When I cut the hose by any means, after having surrounded it with tape of course, it fanns out and it is impossible to compress it to fit into the fitting. It has never happened to me. So I filed a complaint to the vendor and I am waiting.
So technical unemployment on that side. I took the opportunity to mount the magnificent tank caps,
And so I went back to the front and rear covers that I dismantled to treat the few rusty steel parts, especially the false rear frame and redo the connectors, especially at the rear where I remove the badly placed additional lights.

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This made it easier to access the ZF DS25 gearbox. I had a leak on the studs of the rear gearbox cover. I called Samuel Pezot to find out if I could disassemble the bonnet in a horizontal position without all the bearings falling off, and then, no, you have to put the gearbox vertically. So I disassembled the gearbox with the clutch bell because they had the good idea to place 4 bolts on the outside of the bell, but 2 bolts on the inside also to fix the gearbox.
On the other hand, to access the bell you have to remove the exhausts and the crossbar that supports the gearbox, so it's quite long. I took the opportunity to repolish this beautiful machined aluminum crossbar.

And so, I think I'm going to modify the fastening of the gearbox on the bell to access it more easily and avoid having to fall all this for a clutch for example, I'm going to try to replace the 2 inner bolts by stiuds, because in any case, the whole thing is attached well enough to the bell and the chassis.

Fortunately I took a closer look at this box because it had no oil, maybe the leak had emptied it. What is certain is that it comes from another car so what condition is it in? I sent the box to a repair shop for checking and to put a locker inside.
As the clutch is accessible, I removed the mechanism a Centerforce which is new and the fortunately I did it because the clutch disc which is also new is a standard e route disc so to replace with a ceramic. I'm going to balance the flywheel with the mechanism as well.
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I ended up changing the rear caliper seals today.
 
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