RCR GT40 Cinderella in France

Markus, Paul, Randy,
Thank's a lot for those precisions. I found in my stock of parts the black bushings. For me those part were part of an engine mount, now I know !
It seems less pratical to use the bobblin instead the rotation on a shaft, but I suppose this was faster to access to the front parts, during a race in the pit stop.
So ``your" front clam is mounted to rotate on a shaft? As you say, that's probably better for everyday use (no need for disconnecting wires and hoses, little space needed in front of the car to open). The bobbin setup is quicker when you need to swap the entire nose in case of damage or to get full access to the front. I have the latter system and, while I've removed the front shell by myself, it's a much easier job for 2 people.
Regarding the ``cylinder" in the 2nd picture: you'll have to remove the filler unit anyway to check that the venting system is set up properly with a valve in case of a rollover. If your tanks are not connected (as in my case) there should be another venting system on the other side? I went through all this because I had a fuel leak in the filler system (leaving puddles at the gas station). Fortunately, my car came with fuel cells (air-craft style bladder system). So no need for action there.
Happy building!
 
Walter, the front clam is mounted on a shaft, (2nd photo) that is easier to move when I am alone, meaning allways !
I found the two bushing to guide the "bobbling opening" and made a photo of one in place (1st photo)
Regarding the part near the gas tank filler,, I removed the two screws on side and it is use to vent the gas tank.
Thank you all of you for those advices.

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Today, I removed the front and back clam shells, and I discover that the front wheel seem to touch the body near the gas tank, and also the back of the arch on each side.
As a reminder the car never took the road, but only did a few turns in a parking lot. The adjustments on the suspensions are probably not the good ones but what is stange is that all the triangles are adjusted with washers to push them front. It means that if I want to adjust the wheel and make a move to the back if necessary, it will be impossible.
The tires are Avon CR6ZZ 215x60/15.
Any idea of what to do ?
 

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Randy V

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RCR recommends spacing the front lower control arms all the way forward in order to get the better positive caster angle as well as better clearance to the sills and body…. If you are running tires wider than 205 on the front, you may need to do some trimming of the sill covers. I used 225/50 tires on the front of mine and still needed a mild trim on the sill covers.
 
I changed all the gaskets of the parts making up the injection. After reassembling, the tension of the throttle cable had to be adjusted on the capstan, which was new because before, the cable acted on a small lever on the side, not through the capstan.

This forced several modifications to the bottom bracket for the end stop but also for the cable to slide without restraint. But it seems to be working. I just had to change an aviation hose that had a leaking fitting to be able to restart the engine, but impossible to redo the hose in question. I had bought dash6 hose from GT2i 2 months ago in anticipation of the hoses to be replaced, but I can't manage to assemble the fittings. When I cut the hose by any means, after having surrounded it with tape of course, it fanns out and it is impossible to compress it to fit into the fitting. It has never happened to me. So I filed a complaint to the vendor and I am waiting.
So technical unemployment on that side. I took the opportunity to mount the magnificent tank caps,
And so I went back to the front and rear covers that I dismantled to treat the few rusty steel parts, especially the false rear frame and redo the connectors, especially at the rear where I remove the badly placed additional lights.

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This made it easier to access the ZF DS25 gearbox. I had a leak on the studs of the rear gearbox cover. I called Samuel Pezot to find out if I could disassemble the bonnet in a horizontal position without all the bearings falling off, and then, no, you have to put the gearbox vertically. So I disassembled the gearbox with the clutch bell because they had the good idea to place 4 bolts on the outside of the bell, but 2 bolts on the inside also to fix the gearbox.
On the other hand, to access the bell you have to remove the exhausts and the crossbar that supports the gearbox, so it's quite long. I took the opportunity to repolish this beautiful machined aluminum crossbar.

And so, I think I'm going to modify the fastening of the gearbox on the bell to access it more easily and avoid having to fall all this for a clutch for example, I'm going to try to replace the 2 inner bolts by stiuds, because in any case, the whole thing is attached well enough to the bell and the chassis.

Fortunately I took a closer look at this box because it had no oil, maybe the leak had emptied it. What is certain is that it comes from another car so what condition is it in? I sent the box to a repair shop for checking and to put a locker inside.
As the clutch is accessible, I removed the mechanism a Centerforce which is new and the fortunately I did it because the clutch disc which is also new is a standard e route disc so to replace with a ceramic. I'm going to balance the flywheel with the mechanism as well.
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I ended up changing the rear caliper seals today.
 
I try to "clean" the wire loom, but I have no drawing. I identified the fuse but 3 are unknown. I need your help, does somebody could copy me the wiring diagramm that was probably delivered with the car ?
 
Hi Jean-Marc: Are you able to identify the maker (brand) of the wiring loom? Mine is a (21 circuit - most likely) EZ Wiring harness. Their color coding is online. Picture shows how my box looks like (photo taken from ebay). Cheers
 

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Hi Walter, the fuse box is different of yours, see the photo. There no other identification except on some looms paper tags hand written.
 

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well, then I'd search for pictures under the key words "kit car wiring harness fuse box ..." or send RCR an email with the photo above. Good luck....
 
I changed all the gaskets of the parts making up the injection. After reassembling, the tension of the throttle cable had to be adjusted on the capstan, which was new because before, the cable acted on a small lever on the side, not through the capstan.

This forced several modifications to the bottom bracket for the end stop but also for the cable to slide without restraint. But it seems to be working. I just had to change an aviation hose that had a leaking fitting to be able to restart the engine, but impossible to redo the hose in question. I had bought dash6 hose from GT2i 2 months ago in anticipation of the hoses to be replaced, but I can't manage to assemble the fittings. When I cut the hose by any means, after having surrounded it with tape of course, it fanns out and it is impossible to compress it to fit into the fitting. It has never happened to me. So I filed a complaint to the vendor and I am waiting.
So technical unemployment on that side. I took the opportunity to mount the magnificent tank caps,
And so I went back to the front and rear covers that I dismantled to treat the few rusty steel parts, especially the false rear frame and redo the connectors, especially at the rear where I remove the badly placed additional lights.

20240512_1701031.thumb.jpg.7578dc164d7be830d2adc0d6f96ab6df.jpg

This made it easier to access the ZF DS25 gearbox. I had a leak on the studs of the rear gearbox cover. I called Samuel Pezot to find out if I could disassemble the bonnet in a horizontal position without all the bearings falling off, and then, no, you have to put the gearbox vertically. So I disassembled the gearbox with the clutch bell because they had the good idea to place 4 bolts on the outside of the bell, but 2 bolts on the inside also to fix the gearbox.
On the other hand, to access the bell you have to remove the exhausts and the crossbar that supports the gearbox, so it's quite long. I took the opportunity to repolish this beautiful machined aluminum crossbar.

And so, I think I'm going to modify the fastening of the gearbox on the bell to access it more easily and avoid having to fall all this for a clutch for example, I'm going to try to replace the 2 inner bolts by stiuds, because in any case, the whole thing is attached well enough to the bell and the chassis.

Fortunately I took a closer look at this box because it had no oil, maybe the leak had emptied it. What is certain is that it comes from another car so what condition is it in? I sent the box to a repair shop for checking and to put a locker inside.
As the clutch is accessible, I removed the mechanism a Centerforce which is new and the fortunately I did it because the clutch disc which is also new is a standard e route disc so to replace with a ceramic. I'm going to balance the flywheel with the mechanism as well.
View attachment 139300
View attachment 139301

I ended up changing the rear caliper seals today.
Hello Jean-Marc:
Questions:
Could you pull the transaxle-bell-housing unit without raising the engine? Lucky if ``yes", on my car it is ``no" \-:
What is the pivot mechanism for the rear clam shell - simple bolts or ``claw and wheel" for easy removal?
Any progress with your car? Best wishes, Walter
 
Hi Walter, Yes I did it but I forced a little bit to go out. For reassembly I will unbolt one bolt on each engine support.
Hi am checkin with the company that check my gear box to see if it would be possible to use only the 4 bolt that hold the gear box on the cllutch housing form outside and to replace the 2 other bolts that are normally bolted form inside, by 2 studs. It seems to me that the housing is hold in place only by bolts on the upper side of the circle, plus the gear box is also secured by the top with 2 bolts in the aluminum rail. It should be enough ?
Regarding the rear clam shell, it use a claw and wheel system, very easy to remove.
Thank you for your encouragments ! Have nice vacations.
 
Any help I can give-my second gt40. Love the book Fast Fords. I went with a carb on my Factory Five Daytona after trying a long time to sort out fuel injection.
 
C.Bering, I am waiting the check of my gearbox to reassemble everything. After I will start the engine and try to manage the injection parameter with the software that I load from the Facebook group on Accel DFI.
If it too complicated I will do as you did. I will keep you inform and document my progres.
 
Last update ; The gear box came back from the shop with a new limited sleep differiential and, I hope no more leak. I took the opportunity to measure the various ratio and calaculate the rpm per ratio.
I finilized also a frame on the front to put a towing ring, it is mandatory on race track in Europe. But in the case of the RCR frame, it is impossible to attach one on the front frame, because the aluminium around the radiator will be not enough rigid to support towing effort. I attached a steel frame on one side linked to the other side with various screws to bring the effort on the central cell and not on the front frame.
Now I am reassembling the back, with the goal to start soon the engine.
 

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