RCR #010 Build Progress

Well, the dash is almost done. Almost. I still need to have it vacuum formed with leather and add two green colored lights above the fuel pump switches. But it's close.

From Dymo labels...
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To this (engraved panels)...
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The two panels cost $73.

Bill D
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Bill -

That looks awsome. The plates came out beautiful! Did you go with the 0.062 Matt Material or was it the Lexan?

Also did you send them the CAD for the layouts or did they work from drafted plans?

Sandy
 
Thanks Sandy
They are .062 Lexan. I think the Matte has better contrast. I sent them a dimensional drawing. Took about three weeks. Wayne at Aircraft Engravers is great to work with.

Bill
 
I bought some 1/2" diameter, 1/2 round mild steel lengths today to use as faux beads on the sills like the original cars. I also bought a couple of cover plates from Aero Tech Laboratories to use as faux access panels. So far, I've only cut the steel and placed them on teh chassis for viewing. I will epoxy them once I round the ends. The chassis will be painted satin black

sill%20mods%20001.jpg


sill%20mods%20002.jpg


sill%20mods%20003.jpg


The access panel will be polished and then clear powder coated. Black oxide screws cut short will be epoxied in the panel.

Bill D
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
You didn't take off the DYMO labelmaker tapes....I can't believe you did that!!
Seriously, the dash looks great. Could you send me the DYMO labelmaker, though, and I will use it to label all my dash items, and the car will be really authentic..:)
 
Bill, I feel sorry for the poor guy that inherits your beauty of a 40. They will go nuts trying to get those inspection plates off to do a good inspection!!
 
Bill,

Awesome work on the car!

If you reallllly want to have some fun with those plates AND you would never have to worry about the screw heads popping off....

Before you attach the plate, insert the shortend screws, flip the plate upside down and enlarge the end. (Like maybe using a center punch in the middle of the shaft??). Basically turning the screw into a rivet.

After you attacht the panel to the sills, the screw head could/would still turn and turn and turn and turn, but never come out!
 
Bill,

I like your sill idea. Just a couple of notes, why did you go with steel instead of aluminum (keep the weight down). Also, you need to make the ends into a 1/4 sphere. That way they the ends look like the end of a bead. Keep up the good work
 
Hi Richard
I plan to round the ends like you said before I JB weld them to the chassis. The reason I chose steel over aluminum is that it was readily available and cheap ($32 for 24 feet).

Weight is not a factor for me as it is strictly a street car.
 

Scott McDill

Supporter
Looks good Bill
You are clearly going where no man has gone before! (at least on an RCR build)
I hope you will be flattered when I copy some of your great ideas for my build. I was in West Marine a few days ago and noticed aluminum rub rail for boats. I will be looking for some that is not pre drilld, and with the correct profile. I think it is flatter than half round.
 
I checked the Racing Icons site to see if they had any information about the sill beads. And they do. From their site:

All original 1960's GT40's had formed reinforcing ribsalong the length of the fuel sponsons. These ribs measured 1.060 wide" x 0.240 high"...

I'm using 1/2" 1/2 rounds that measure .500 wide by .250 high. So I'm close. Maybe I could put two together???
 
UPDATE!!!

I spoke with the supplier (Tell Steel) in Long Beach, CA. They have half ovals in the size of the original beads (1.000 x .250). I ordered 3 6 footers today ($31 + shipping/tax) which shouild be plenty.
 
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