When the ETC is mounted with the RCR bracket on the pedal slide assembly, the throw on the throttle is very short. Does that seem to be acceptable or should the mounting occur vertical so the throw could be greater?
ETC mount
- Thread starter mcfling
- Start date
The travel on the ETC GM pedal module is predetermined...you cannot increase its travel but you can can change the range of motion of the Tilton pedal by bolting a secondary arm to the GM module at 90 deg...the length and position of this arm can help two fold.
1. you can make the Tilton pedal throw being anything you want
2. it shortens the overall footprint of the pedal assembly giving you more footbox room.
1. you can make the Tilton pedal throw being anything you want
2. it shortens the overall footprint of the pedal assembly giving you more footbox room.
My pedal throw was fairly short and I thought that it may have been an issue (an on-off switch) but it is not. With real world driving - it's progressive and very driveable. The return spring was removed from the Tilton pedal, for the spring in the ETC is strong enough. My throttle rod is longer and mounted higher than yours though.
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I used a throttle sensor from the 2010 Corvette donor that I my engine came out of, so I had to modify the RCR throttle bracket to fit. The modification rotates the sensor arm to be more parallel with the angle of the pedal.
The stock Corvette sensor has a strong return spring, so I beefed up the RCR bracket and removed the spring on the pedal assy.
After comparing the throw on the sensor to the pedal, I cut the arm on the sensor to a length that matches their movement. In otherwords, the pedal limiter screw engages at the full throttle position on the sensor.
This is fairly a compact arrangement, so I can push my pedal assy as far forward in the foot box as possible.
The throttle has OEM like linear sensitivity and pedal pressure.
The stock Corvette sensor has a strong return spring, so I beefed up the RCR bracket and removed the spring on the pedal assy.
After comparing the throw on the sensor to the pedal, I cut the arm on the sensor to a length that matches their movement. In otherwords, the pedal limiter screw engages at the full throttle position on the sensor.
This is fairly a compact arrangement, so I can push my pedal assy as far forward in the foot box as possible.
The throttle has OEM like linear sensitivity and pedal pressure.
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One thing to consider on pedals is the relationship of gas to the brake pedal. Before my SLC I'd only tracked street cars, Mustangs/porsches that all have throttle pedals 3.5" behind the brake by law. I set my throttle and brake pedal even initially thinking it would be a great heel toe set up. On thing I didnt consider is if you accidentally grab throttle with brake. Gas trumps brake pads every time. This caught me in the heat of the moment trying to slamming on brakes but actually accelerating into the car I was trying to avoid. To make matters worse its hard to just slip your foot off throttle and apply brakes, you have to release pressure, move foot, then slam brake which seems like an eternity when the immovable object is filling your windscreen. I went home that night and backed my gas pedal 3.5". I'm sure I may be talking to seasoned track pro's who are yawning. For those who arent you may want to consider starting with pedal 3.5" and moving up to heel / toe position as you get used to the car. Its a much bigger deal than how linear the pedal feels. The 2 geometries Ive had both feel like warp factor 10, you get used to it with a big grin, regardless.
Needless to say wearing the correct driving shoes is important on these cars that have close pedal spacing. I have two sets that work (round heal and thin toe area/profile with thin soles). I have a pair of simpson racing shoes but the very thin soles will kill your feet if you do much walking in-between driving. The rest of my shoes/sneakers would be downright dangerous with my pedal set-up.
:thumbsup:
Yup!
The SLC brake pedal feel is very hard, so it doesn't depress very far. That allows you to position of the accelerator and brake pedals closer together.
I played with my accelerator / brake pedal adjustment to get them close, but still ensure there is plenty of clearance so the accelerator is never accidentally hit when braking. I ended up with my accelerator pedal only 1.5" - 2" behind the brake pedal. That seems close, but it works well in my SLC.
By comparison, the last car I built had a brake pedal that was not as hard, so the accelerator pedal was 3.5" - 4" behind the brake pedal.
At any rate, the accelerator / brake pedal alignment is easy to adjust after installation, so you can adjust it later to your liking.
The SLC brake pedal feel is very hard, so it doesn't depress very far. That allows you to position of the accelerator and brake pedals closer together.
I played with my accelerator / brake pedal adjustment to get them close, but still ensure there is plenty of clearance so the accelerator is never accidentally hit when braking. I ended up with my accelerator pedal only 1.5" - 2" behind the brake pedal. That seems close, but it works well in my SLC.
By comparison, the last car I built had a brake pedal that was not as hard, so the accelerator pedal was 3.5" - 4" behind the brake pedal.
At any rate, the accelerator / brake pedal alignment is easy to adjust after installation, so you can adjust it later to your liking.
When the ETC is mounted with the RCR bracket on the pedal slide assembly, the throw on the throttle is very short. Does that seem to be acceptable or should the mounting occur vertical so the throw could be greater?
After sitting in several SLC's at the Charlotte event....I've changed my pedal to TAC set-up. I fabricated a bracket that is connected to the TAC arm - it's about 6" in height and bolted to the TAC arm at about a 90 degree angle. I'm using the 3rd hole from the bottom on the pedal as the arm connection point. I now have about 3-3.25" of pedal throw - it's all gravy now.
Figure to add a couple pictures - the arm doesn't have to be too fancy.
BTW: I didn't want to disconnect all the fluid lines so I worked this within the pedal box area. What a PITA - I'd highly recommend one does this on a work bench prior to installation in the foot-well. I need to see a chiropractor now.
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I admit I am not great at heal toe, but I am getting better. I made my break pedal bigger and it is now 1" away from the gas pedal. I adjust them so under just about full load breaking the pedal is about 1/8" above the gas pedal so heal toe is really simple. I do not really think it should be called heal toe as it is more "side of foot to gas pedal and big toe area off foot on the break pedal". How about SOFTGPABTAOFOTBP. It really made a big difference and makes it so much easier to drive. You just need to get used to it, but once you do it works really nice.
I'm impressed you did that with it in the car - I just spent the last week (I work slowly :laugh: ) setting up the geometry of my gas pedal on my workbench and it's always a major pitta to get it setup just right even with it staring you right in the face on a bench, heh.
Btw, I don't see any jam nuts on your master cylinders where they thread into the celvises?
Alex - which jam nuts are you referring to - do you mean these... see picture.
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