Dean's SLC build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
Yes sir! :lipsrsealed:
New shiny door handles off of EBay for $29 including shipping.
I must confess, I cut the f#$%ing door handle pockets wrong. So learn from my mistake. The lock goes in the rear. If you don't do it that way, the lever won't have the correct motion to trip the latch. I was able to fix it but it certainly wasn't the easiest solution. Also, the studs on the latches need to be removed and replaced and extended about an inch. The extra length makes fitting the latches easier and it doesn't get in the way internally either. I was able to, first, straighten the 5 inch threaded arm on the latch and then bend it right into the latch. A picture would have been helpful but I am passed the point were a picture can be taken. It was pretty easy actually.
I used a large red power wire to act as the internal door latch release. I just used the other hole in the latch and crimped a wire connector on the end to keep it from pulling out. I attached the other end to the front part of the door and done! The red even matches the paint scheme.
Last edited:
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Dean are the door handles new or are they used "take off" handles? If new are they of a high quality? Does the EBay seller have more?
Any tips on cutting the fiberglass holes out? What did you use?
Any tips on cutting the fiberglass holes out? What did you use?
I have masses of handles in stock so there really was no need to have purchase any more....we would have happily exchanged them....
Ken, I used a step bit, a hacksaw blade and a cut-off wheel on my dremel tool. It isn't the easiest thing to do but I have learned that it is infinitely easier to cut more out than to put it back in! :furious: Go slow and test fit often.
If you can get the rubber seal of the handle and use it for a template to drill the bolt holes, you might save yourself a lot of grief. Anything not used to support the bolts can be cut out. I used my grinder to smooth out the ridges on the area of the latch around the locking mechanism. It made the fit much better. If you look at your latch you will see what I mean.
The handles I ordered are used but in good shape. I think it was an individual seller.
Fran,
I know you would have switched them out. You are very gracious that way. I also know your covered up with other stuff right now so for $29 bucks I had them at the door in 2 days and you didn't have to stop what you are doing to mess with it. You've already given me a lot. I just took the easy route this time.
If you can get the rubber seal of the handle and use it for a template to drill the bolt holes, you might save yourself a lot of grief. Anything not used to support the bolts can be cut out. I used my grinder to smooth out the ridges on the area of the latch around the locking mechanism. It made the fit much better. If you look at your latch you will see what I mean.
The handles I ordered are used but in good shape. I think it was an individual seller.
Fran,
I know you would have switched them out. You are very gracious that way. I also know your covered up with other stuff right now so for $29 bucks I had them at the door in 2 days and you didn't have to stop what you are doing to mess with it. You've already given me a lot. I just took the easy route this time.
I needed to paint the inside of the body since I'm not doing an interior. For this tasked I called in a professional.:thumbsup:
With all the talk of oil cooler mounting locations I wanted to go ahead and post
pictures of my position and mounts.
I used a couple of pieces of angle for the lower mount points first.
The top is held tight with an aluminum strap. I used twist-lock hoses and fittings from summit. I used the Lingenfelter adapter. I'll just post the pictures I have. I hope they help.
I will use heat shielding to protect the lines and the cooler from the exhaust but there is quite a bit of air around the exhaust and the oil cooler.
pictures of my position and mounts.
I used a couple of pieces of angle for the lower mount points first.
The top is held tight with an aluminum strap. I used twist-lock hoses and fittings from summit. I used the Lingenfelter adapter. I'll just post the pictures I have. I hope they help.
I will use heat shielding to protect the lines and the cooler from the exhaust but there is quite a bit of air around the exhaust and the oil cooler.
Going back a few post - Here is a picture of the door latch seals/trim pieces that I took off of the old latches to help me drill the holes in the right spot.
That is an interesting mounting solution. Why did you orient the cooler 90' to the side duct? Ease of install?
Also, what cooler is that?
Also, what cooler is that?
With all the talk of oil cooler mounting locations I wanted to go ahead and post
pictures of my position and mounts.
Dave Lindemann
Lifetime Supporter
Dean -
Thank you for posting your progress. May I ask where you purchased the cold air intake/filter assembly?
Regards,
Dave L
Thank you for posting your progress. May I ask where you purchased the cold air intake/filter assembly?
Regards,
Dave L
I built that. I listed the part numbers from Summit below. It is just a filter, an aluminum tube and a 2 couplers. There is a lot more detail on the assembly a few pages back. I hope that helps.
SPE-9724
KNN-RC-5129
SPE-8776
SPE-9724
KNN-RC-5129
SPE-8776
There was a picture deleted from one of the post because of something I edited in Photo bucket. It was this one I believe.
I tried to show you the fan mounted behind the cooler but it really can't easily be seen once installed.
The reason it was mounted that way is because I had to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible. with a good fan I will get enough air even if it is tucked up in there.
This is the fan I used.
Flex-a-lite 45901 - Flex-a-lite Heavy Duty Remote Coolers With Fan - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I tried to show you the fan mounted behind the cooler but it really can't easily be seen once installed.
The reason it was mounted that way is because I had to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible. with a good fan I will get enough air even if it is tucked up in there.
This is the fan I used.
Flex-a-lite 45901 - Flex-a-lite Heavy Duty Remote Coolers With Fan - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I fabbed up a brace for the wing mounting brackets.
It is bolted to the aluminum side plates. I drilled and tapped that rear cover of the transaxle and just bolted the brace to that to control lateral movement. It is very solid now.
You will also notice my 1/2 inch pins to release the wing. It pivots on a 1/2 inch shoulder bolt with nylon bushings between the panels to take out any "play" in the panels.
It is bolted to the aluminum side plates. I drilled and tapped that rear cover of the transaxle and just bolted the brace to that to control lateral movement. It is very solid now.
You will also notice my 1/2 inch pins to release the wing. It pivots on a 1/2 inch shoulder bolt with nylon bushings between the panels to take out any "play" in the panels.
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Dean your work is like a surgeons work in the operating room, everything is SO clean. :2thumbsup:
Would be nice if someone would run an SLC in Silver State, Big Bend or Sand Hills, at the hands of a good driver they could dominate everything out there.
Would be nice if someone would run an SLC in Silver State, Big Bend or Sand Hills, at the hands of a good driver they could dominate everything out there.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Going back a few post - Here is a picture of the door latch seals/trim pieces that I took off of the old latches to help me drill the holes in the right spot.
Dean do these seals get used on the SLC?
Does anyone have part numbers for new handles and lock cylinders?
I did use them. They are attached to the handles. It is actually a little work to remove them. Since I had an extra set, I used these as a template. I don't have any part numbers for this stuff, I just found a good looking pair on Ebay and that was about all there was to it. If you have a set of handles that need replaced, Fran said he would exchange them.
For those that haven't purchased the kit yet, this stuff comes with the kit. I'm sorry, I think I have made it much more confusing than it needed to be.
For those that haven't purchased the kit yet, this stuff comes with the kit. I'm sorry, I think I have made it much more confusing than it needed to be.
I needed to switch out the springs to something more suited for the track so, with Fran's help, I settled on 950lb springs in the front and 1200 lb springs in the rear. As you can see, they are substantially beefier.
The rears are 8 inches instead of 7 and I could have gone that way on the front but didn't. I didn't like how the adjuster was mid way up the shock body. That is the weaker part of the shock. Now my adjustment rings are at the bottom of the shock where the shock is the strongest.
The rears are 8 inches instead of 7 and I could have gone that way on the front but didn't. I didn't like how the adjuster was mid way up the shock body. That is the weaker part of the shock. Now my adjustment rings are at the bottom of the shock where the shock is the strongest.
When you can't find something, many times you just need to do it yourself. Case in point, the battery tray. It's not complicated but they are usually just plastic or they cost way to much for the purpose they serve.
Here's what a 10 x 10 inch steel plate, a few nut zerts and other scrap looks like. Very strong and functional. I used some 1/4 inch all thread with an bar across the top of the battery and -done!
Here's what a 10 x 10 inch steel plate, a few nut zerts and other scrap looks like. Very strong and functional. I used some 1/4 inch all thread with an bar across the top of the battery and -done!
