Dean's SLC build thread

[Dean Lampe]

I started laying out the brakes so I jacked up the car and pulled the wheels for the first time. I noticed that the factory studs are not long enough to safely run the race wheels. I decided to go ahead and switch to longer studs. As you can see in the pictures, the new studs are at least and inch longer. I took a picture of the package so you can see the ARP part number if any of you find your self in the same situation.

I was able to easily knock out the studs. The best way to put the new studs in is with a press. I had a neighbor with a harbor freight press and fridge with a couple cold Corona's. With a beer in one hand and my stud in the other I was able to press it in, 10 times! :lipsrsealed:

Check out my new studs!

Now back to the brakes. I'm going to start with the pedal assembly tomorrow evening and go from there.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Do the RCR provided tail lights come with the sockets and bulbs? Are all four sockets the same part number?

I see them being sold on Ebay, just wondering if I should order these as my car is due to arrive in May.

 

[Alex]

Do the RCR provided tail lights come with the sockets and bulbs? Are all four sockets the same part number?

I see them being sold on Ebay, just wondering if I should order these as my car is due to arrive in May.

socket and bulbs come with the lights (not from rcr, but from the manufacturer of them), wiring pigtail does not. Wiring pigtail costs like $50/light from dodge :/

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Pigtail is now part of the ISIS system...plug and play into the lights...front and rear

 

[Doc Kaler]

Dean,

Good move to replace those studs. I believe both Alex and I have done that. You can now replace the lug nuts with tall open ones and still have some threads showing.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Nice job Doc.
(I sent you an email BTW and it bounced...do you have a new address)

 

[Doc Kaler]

No, but I'll PM you and email you now to be sure.

 

[Alex]

Dean,

Good move to replace those studs. I believe both Alex and I have done that. You can now replace the lug nuts with tall open ones and still have some threads showing.

Oh wow those are tall, haha. Do you recall what the part number for them is? I didn't want to chop my studs down to size, but i'm using the 'normal' sized lug nuts at the moment.

 

[Doc Kaler]

Alex,

No. Just use steel or Titanium (if you want to blow your budget) and not aluminum, M12 x 1.5 I believe.

 

[Ted - LS MAN]

Dean, your car looks awesome, like the color.
Can't wait to get started on ours!

 

[Dean Lampe]

The part number for the studs is in the picture.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Well, I'm back on task, the brakes. With the new studs fitted, I can bolt on the hubs and the calipers and I should be able to finish the system without any more parts. I unpacked the pedals and they look great. I put the masters on and the pedal angle was tilted too far forward so I had to shorten the threaded shafts about 5/8's.

Now when I bolt it all together the pedals have a nice upright position. I did as much assembley as I could because it is obviously easier to do it on the bench than under the dash.

One thing I've learned is that you want to mark which master is front so you know how your adjustments need to go for balance and to know which reservoir goes to which end of the car.

I marker the holes in the floor and drilled the mounting location. The issue is with the way the pedals are made where the fasteners go. If you want the head of the bolt to be under the car in order to maximize ground clearance, you will need to come up with a way to make the nuts fit. I made some stainless spacers to raise the nuts up enough to get a wrench on them. That's not very well written but here is a picture.

(hardware)

(spacer in the pedal assembly)

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Dean,
If you use AN hardware the bolts/nuts will fit just fine...

 

[Cam]

socket and bulbs come with the lights (not from rcr, but from the manufacturer of them), wiring pigtail does not. Wiring pigtail costs like $50/light from dodge :/

or, $5 at the local junkyard from any wrecked dodge pickup.

 

[Al Wohlstrom]

Dean,

Good move to replace those studs. I believe both Alex and I have done that. You can now replace the lug nuts with tall open ones and still have some threads showing.

I replaced my lugs with 12 point M12x1.5 titanium lugs, they show 1 1/2 to 2 threads on the stock lugs. A little pricey at $299.00, but they are a light gray and go well with my black chrome powdercoat rims and the 12 points are tits.

 

[Yos]

Wow Dean...so far I can tell this is going to be a very helpful build thread...Just like you said you wanted it to be.

I'll definitely be referencing it often during my build.

:computer:

 

[Dean Lampe]

Thanks for the info Fran. That's a good example of why you should have an active build thread. I hadn't given the AN hardware any consideration. (not that the spacer idea would have worked!)

 

[Ken Roberts]

Thanks for the info Fran. That's a good example of why you should have an active build thread. I hadn't given the AN hardware any consideration. (not that the spacer idea would have worked!)

I'm confused by what exactly "AN hardware" is. Can someone please explain. I thought AN only referred to 37 degree fluid connector spec.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

AN Hardware - Army-Navy Standards AN Bolts and AN Fasteners

 

[Ken Roberts]

or, $5 at the local junkyard from any wrecked dodge pickup.

Cam will Dodge Ram tail light pigtails be the same as Dakota?

I will email you the 40 pin connector diagram for the XLR steering column shortly.