OOuuuh! Best of luck with the surgery, Kath, the Boyz and I wish you a speedy recovery back to full speed!
Oh, and GO LIONS!
Need cooling help please
- Thread starter SpyderMike
- Start date
Oh, and GO LIONS!
Lol, thank you Dave, et al! I appreciate it!
As a guy married into a Green Bay Packers season tickets owning family (since the beginning), I have to root for the Pack. I must say, however, we (all of the family) are very pleased with this year's progress of the Lions. Y'all are seriously long overdue and we wish you the very best outcome...a Super Bowl victory.
I will go further to say that I tend to like the way Dan Campbell plays the game too.
If we weren't in such a tough division (obviously not including the Bears), we might actually have a playoff chance...
As a guy married into a Green Bay Packers season tickets owning family (since the beginning), I have to root for the Pack. I must say, however, we (all of the family) are very pleased with this year's progress of the Lions. Y'all are seriously long overdue and we wish you the very best outcome...a Super Bowl victory.
I will go further to say that I tend to like the way Dan Campbell plays the game too.
If we weren't in such a tough division (obviously not including the Bears), we might actually have a playoff chance...
Thank you right back at cha, Mike! I can feel all that stress I felt from reading your 11 page post drain away thinking about our Lions! I have lost track who I sent this to so forgive me if I have sent it to you already, but our SPF GT40 has just been loaded into a container with 3 other SPF cars all bound for my dealer in Indiana. Here is a photo of our ship, the CMA CGM Masai Mara. She leaves port in SA on 12/14 for the 2 month trip to New York.
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Ahhh, congrats! I fondly remember that time in my car's history...now nearly 18 years ago. Yikes, has it been that long?
Enjoy the experience!
Enjoy the experience!
It's true, time flies when you're having fun!
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I could use some help folks (or at least some encouragement)! I am finally back at it having gone through rotator cuff surgery yet again on the second shoulder. After a few months of PT I decided I could try to get coolant in the car. Yea, right...
I decided to cut away the Gates Power Bands using the soldering iron method. The only one I didn't replace was the lower main tunnel line as it is f-ing hard to get to and I lost a knuckle last time I tried. I bought some nice new T-Bolt hose clamps for all other locations and got those all installed. I then checked all hoses to make sure they are connected. I started my compressor at high pressure (about 130) and tried to pull vacuum. The gauge just starts to show the beginning of vacuum and then levels off as the compressor reduces to 80psi. If I shot the vacuum supply, the gauge quickly goes to zero. This is a Makita 4 gallon 4.2cfm at 90psi model compressor. I read that it should do it. Looks like it is time to try the pressurizing method instead.
It wasn't as fun as I was hoping, but I am glad the new clamps are on. I got some serious PT exercise getting into the car and under it (so many times) while it was about 5 feet up on the lift....that has got to count for something!
I decided to cut away the Gates Power Bands using the soldering iron method. The only one I didn't replace was the lower main tunnel line as it is f-ing hard to get to and I lost a knuckle last time I tried. I bought some nice new T-Bolt hose clamps for all other locations and got those all installed. I then checked all hoses to make sure they are connected. I started my compressor at high pressure (about 130) and tried to pull vacuum. The gauge just starts to show the beginning of vacuum and then levels off as the compressor reduces to 80psi. If I shot the vacuum supply, the gauge quickly goes to zero. This is a Makita 4 gallon 4.2cfm at 90psi model compressor. I read that it should do it. Looks like it is time to try the pressurizing method instead.
It wasn't as fun as I was hoping, but I am glad the new clamps are on. I got some serious PT exercise getting into the car and under it (so many times) while it was about 5 feet up on the lift....that has got to count for something!
David Garton
Supporter
Mike , Glad your back at it. Sounds like your going to have a leak if it doesn't pull into a vacume. I use the air vac to pull diesel trucks into a vacume and when it holds it will pull five gallons of coolant out of a jug and fill the entire system. Bad thing is you cant see the vacume leak but when you fill it and pressure test it you will find it. Good luck and that is the best therapy for you.
David
David
Thanks David! I will hopefully find out soon.
Okay, a bit of part sourcing and I was able to cobble together a setup to pressurize the system while I crawl all over it to search for leaks. It uses my compressor at the lowest setting which I am not too fond of. I am thinking of trying to use my homemade brake pressure system, as I can control the lower pressure needs easier, but more fittings are needed.
One issue is, I think, is the pressure cap on the overflow tank that doesn't seal well. It fits real loose and at really low pressure (~10psi) it leaks air like a mother. I found a way to seal that better temporary, and then identified three major leaks elsewhere.
One leak was at the large hose connection to the top of the water pump, one was at the bottom of that run of metal pipe down towards the tunnel, and then the last was the hardest one to get to - the lower tunnel hose connection (which still had the Gates Power Grip band there). I had to remove the Power Band with a soldering iron and dental pick. Fun.
I could not stop the leaking using the T-Bolt clamps no matter where I placed them. After several failed attempts, I resorted to using the original narrower clamps and the leaks quieted down significantly.
After two hours I am getting closer...enough already! Done for the day. Need to use the spray bottle with soap method and the brake pressure system next.
One issue is, I think, is the pressure cap on the overflow tank that doesn't seal well. It fits real loose and at really low pressure (~10psi) it leaks air like a mother. I found a way to seal that better temporary, and then identified three major leaks elsewhere.
One leak was at the large hose connection to the top of the water pump, one was at the bottom of that run of metal pipe down towards the tunnel, and then the last was the hardest one to get to - the lower tunnel hose connection (which still had the Gates Power Grip band there). I had to remove the Power Band with a soldering iron and dental pick. Fun.
I could not stop the leaking using the T-Bolt clamps no matter where I placed them. After several failed attempts, I resorted to using the original narrower clamps and the leaks quieted down significantly.
After two hours I am getting closer...enough already! Done for the day. Need to use the spray bottle with soap method and the brake pressure system next.
You are using silicone hoses? And many are leaking? Something does not sound right Mike? T-Bolt clamps are actually capable of crushing tube so this really surprises me. Especially a water pump outlet? Good ole hose clamp is all you need to hold pressure.
I am using silicone hoses Lee and yes, and a couple of silicon hose to metal hose connections were leaking. The T-Bolts are retained where I felt comfortable with their placement and had no sign of leakage. There are a couple of locations where I could not get them to seal completely. I think it is due to a couple of factors - they are wider, they require more room to access where I am placing them, and the metal hose provided by SPF had short hand welded beads at each end. I continued to have issues there using the T-Bolt clamps. Removing them and replacing with basic screw bands seems to have worked - I can pull a vacuum to about 24-25in right now.
So I went around and snugged everything up - every hose connection. I even checked the torque of the water pump and thermostat housings. I can easily reach the 24-25in vacuum. It would take about 1:20 for the vacuum to slowly go from 24-20in mg. I think I will try the pressure test next and soap each joint, but I think I am real close!
So I went around and snugged everything up - every hose connection. I even checked the torque of the water pump and thermostat housings. I can easily reach the 24-25in vacuum. It would take about 1:20 for the vacuum to slowly go from 24-20in mg. I think I will try the pressure test next and soap each joint, but I think I am real close!
Correct thread? This one is about my coolant system woes...
Rob Klein
Supporter
the cooling pipe photos were slow to load
Good news Mike. The fact you can pull a vacuum and it hold is positive. Fingers crossed!
Thanks Lee! I am anxiously optimistic! I hope to pressure test today or tomorrow...and if the pressure holds...FILL!
David Garton
Supporter
Mike when you have it pulled down into a vacuum you close the gate valve and add the hose adapter and put the end in the new coolant then open the gate valve and the vacuumed system will pull the new coolant from you jug. Make sure to close the gate valve when transferring the hose to the next jug and open valve again. You should be able to fill the entire system with the system pulled into vacuum. Like I said in the past I have retrieved over five gallons before when vacuumed to 21-24 in vacuum. Great job sticking with it. I know it's been a long journey.
David
David
Thanks David! I have learned a lot...one key lesson is that I don't want to have to do this again (until the memory subsides).
I want to pressure test to make double sure no leaks are present. I will then vacuum fill.
Using the vacuum fill process how do I insure that too much coolant is not introduced (given that it is using the reservoir as the vac-fill point and I don't know exactly how much coolant the system holds)?
I want to pressure test to make double sure no leaks are present. I will then vacuum fill.
Using the vacuum fill process how do I insure that too much coolant is not introduced (given that it is using the reservoir as the vac-fill point and I don't know exactly how much coolant the system holds)?
Mike: I would recommend you getting a 5 gallon water jug or large clean bucket. Mix your coolant and distilled water (recommended 50 / 50 mix) in that jug and let it sit overnight to make sure all air has purged from the mix. Evacuate your coolant system yet again and let it sit for 30 minutes to ensure it is not leaking (it is holding vacuum). Then insert the fill tube from the vacuum system into your jug and let it start drawing coolant into the car. You are DONE when the vacuum has dropped back to zero - that means it's full. Do not let your jug run dry and start sucking air during the process.
