Battery box and location

[Michael Fling]

Here is the battery box I am considering that goes with the Optima 78.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-48220-Optima-Aluminum-Battery/dp/B003IBF6NY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1394251584&sr=8-12&keywords=optima+78]Taylor 48220 Optima 34/78 Series Billet Aluminum Battery Tray : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

Does that seem like the one to have?

Now on to battery position…
I have limited access to the area beside the fuel tank because of the interior tub. Allan sent me a link to some of his jobs. He has located batteries in various places. If I could locate the battery up front in the front box, that would leave space for the surge tank, pumps and filters to go on the frame outside the area beside the tank. Help me… what is th best way to proceed? :huh:

 

[PeteB]

I put mine up front. I just thought it was cleaner to keep it out of the engine bay. I used one of the long ISIS power cables that the manual says to use for the front powercell to go to the rear powercell instead, and a 2 gauge cable to the starter.

 

[Michael Fling]

I assume that it a connection that ISIS supplies?

 

[Dave Forster]

Would something like this give you more options? Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 Lithium-Iron Battery - Free Shipping: BatteryMart.com

Only 5 lbs battery weight (huge weight savings!) and only 6.6" x 3.4" x 6.1" in size.

They are pricey, but are amazing batteries. I have been using one in another application for a couple of years now. When it first arrived, I thought the box was empty - it was so light.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

I am using them too....got turned onto them by a customer...they are awesome little things that make packaging so much easier

 

[PeteB]

I assume that it a connection that ISIS supplies?

The ISIS kit includes 2 long power cables for the powercells and one short cable. The long cables are intended to go from the battery in the engine compartment to the front powercell, and the short one goes to the rear powercell. I'm using one of the long cables to go from the battery up front to the rear powercell and the other long cable and the short one for the front powercell.

 

[Michael Fling]

Thanks Pete! Makes sense. Dave- what are you doing for a battery box?

 

[Dr. David]

The Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 Lithium-Iron battery looks great. At first I was concerned about their statement: "Ultra light - The cheapest way to shave pounds off your racing motorcycle." I thought: "I am building a RCR-LM-P car, not a motorcycle." However, I read the specs on it and it is rated at 550 CCA, at a weight of less than 5 lb., for a price of $333, and free shipping.
The Varley Red Top 40 racing battery, which I use in another one of my cars, is considered a great product, but has a rating of only 500 CCA, and weighs in at 32.7 lb, at $450!..., but is obviously NOT lithium, and weighs much more than you would expect for its small size. At least one site actually mentions using it as "ballast" to balance the car!

Am I missing something here? The Shorai seems like an excellent choice.

If a battery box is not available, there is probably someone we all know who has a CNC machine that could churn one out in a heartbeat. If not, a piece of riveted aluminum angle along the bottom and a fabricated strap around the body of the battery, attached by rivnuts, would be easy. At five pounds, compared to a normal battery, you are looking at a different concept here!

I would imagine Shorai sells something. However, with all the incredible talent on this forum, there is probably someone who wants to make billet battery boxes and sell them.

Still, am I missing something here? Thanks for bring this up!

 

[Bill]

An in-between option is an Odyssey 925. It's a bit heavier at 26lbs, but it's only about $130. I'm using the Odyssey 925 and it has plenty of cranking power (330 CCR) to start my LS3. The Odyssey 925 is a bit larger than the Shorai, but it still fits in the driver's side pod.

I must admit, that Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 Lithium-Iron battery looks amazing. If my Odyssey 925 gives up, I might have to upgrade!

 

[P Roth]

Another important fact about your battery is its Ah rating. It may deliver 500 CCA, but for how long? It is not as important for the new electronic fuel injection/ignition engines, but the older engines may find themselves needing more Amp hours for cranking.

 

[Dave Forster]

Michael: I haven't built the battery box yet, but as DrDavid says, the box can be pretty simple. I'm thinking of bending some sheet aluminum to make a simple box in the general area that the ISIS instruction suggest.

Note that Lithium Iron and Lead Acid batteries are not really directly comparable when looking at Ah ratings, because of the way they deliver their power. Check out the Ah FAQ here: http://shoraipower.com/faq

 

[Howard Jones]

I have a 925 Odyssey in my SLC and another one in my GT40. The one in the GT40 is over 10 years old. Never had to jump it or charge it........ever. Works perfect every time. Can't beat perfect. I'll post my mount arrangement when I get home or you can see it on my build page.

 

[Howard Jones]

Here's a couple of pictures from my build log.

 

[Dr. David]

In case anyone is interested, here is a photo of a simple "battery box", if you have an underlying panel to mount it on. At the bottom, two pieces of aluminum angle at each end, riveted to the floor. These prevent any lateral movement of the battery on cornering. The simple strap over the battery is attached by four stainless steel button-heads, screwed into steel rivnuts. No Billet, but very sturdy, and very simple.

With minimal cost and fabrication, there is no way this battery is going anywhere!
David