Some of you have sent me messages about the mirrors in the first start video. Those are the standard mirrors, or at least they were. The problem for me was that I need excellent visibility on the track and the simple SPA mirrors are between $150 and $200 a piece! There has to be a better way. I think I found it. I used the standard mirrors and started cutting.
I used a belt sander to do the rough shaping then did the rest by hand.
The stands are just 6 inch tubes welded to some seat belt washers. The ID on the tube is just barely 5/16 so all thread will fit through it.
Here was the first attempt all bolted together. The angle on the mirror was slightly tilted up. You could easily sand the face to make it appear flat but that would not be the right thing to do. Instead, I built a base on the mirror body with some plastic epoxy and a fender washer for support. I did the same thing on the inside to keep the surfaces parallel.
Here is a look at the finished mirror with the correct base.
I used 3M 2 sided foam tape on the bottom of the mount to keep it from twisting and drilled a 5/16 hole in the door to run the all thread through and bolt from the bottom. Be sure to use a little epoxy on the nut in the mirror to keep it from turning. Also, you really need to double check what is on the inside of the door before you drill, just saying!
You can adjust the mirror by loosening the nut inside the door and then you can fine tune with the pivot inside the mirror. Works great!:thumbsup:
This still isn't enough to be sure I can see all there is to see behind me so I mounted a 7 inch Pyle LCD screen in the roof that will wire to a camera in the tale section. It was super easy to install and works great. If I cant see you in my side mirrors, I'll see you in my "rear view mirror".
Camera.


I used a belt sander to do the rough shaping then did the rest by hand.

The stands are just 6 inch tubes welded to some seat belt washers. The ID on the tube is just barely 5/16 so all thread will fit through it.

Here was the first attempt all bolted together. The angle on the mirror was slightly tilted up. You could easily sand the face to make it appear flat but that would not be the right thing to do. Instead, I built a base on the mirror body with some plastic epoxy and a fender washer for support. I did the same thing on the inside to keep the surfaces parallel.

Here is a look at the finished mirror with the correct base.



I used 3M 2 sided foam tape on the bottom of the mount to keep it from twisting and drilled a 5/16 hole in the door to run the all thread through and bolt from the bottom. Be sure to use a little epoxy on the nut in the mirror to keep it from turning. Also, you really need to double check what is on the inside of the door before you drill, just saying!
You can adjust the mirror by loosening the nut inside the door and then you can fine tune with the pivot inside the mirror. Works great!:thumbsup:


This still isn't enough to be sure I can see all there is to see behind me so I mounted a 7 inch Pyle LCD screen in the roof that will wire to a camera in the tale section. It was super easy to install and works great. If I cant see you in my side mirrors, I'll see you in my "rear view mirror".

Camera.
