Thanks again Lee! I am hoping to get it done this visit, but, sadly, time is running out for me
Need cooling help please
- Thread starter SpyderMike
- Start date
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Mike my car was about 11.5 litres empty to full.
I filled mine to the brim including expansion tank.
As the engine /car heats ….the coolant will expand and be evacuated past the pressure cap.
I did not have any eye glass on my header tank so checking the level was questionable, until I took a plastic pipe and would blow into it until I heard bubbles….. marked it at that level so easy to check.
Ian
I filled mine to the brim including expansion tank.
As the engine /car heats ….the coolant will expand and be evacuated past the pressure cap.
I did not have any eye glass on my header tank so checking the level was questionable, until I took a plastic pipe and would blow into it until I heard bubbles….. marked it at that level so easy to check.
Ian
Okay! I get it. Thanks for the tips Ian.
Progress today...of course, right before I leave. I got some fittings and pressurized the system. I heard leaks at the top forward of the engine. They are not from my new hoses, but from the thermostat housing and one bolt of the intake manifold ( the bolt closest to the thermostat. I torqued the bolt down to stop that leak.
My thoughts on the thermostat housing: when I initially took it off I noticed that the gasket surface was not the best machining. See attached photo. I recall my concern then, and so I gooped both sides of that Felpro gasket with sealant. Apparently it wasn't enough. I think I will find a better quality housing.
My thoughts on the thermostat housing: when I initially took it off I noticed that the gasket surface was not the best machining. See attached photo. I recall my concern then, and so I gooped both sides of that Felpro gasket with sealant. Apparently it wasn't enough. I think I will find a better quality housing.
So I went into the radiator area where I hadn't been in a while, and I realized that I had neglected to replace those rubber hoses...I had just focused on the engine. No time like the present! I will be ordering new hoses for the next visit in a few weeks. I thought those should be in better condition up front, but I am wrong.
Here is a pic of the surface condition that they all exhibit. I am hoping these will be easier to replace with all the room there. Now, do I go rubber or silicon...hmmm?
Here is a pic of the surface condition that they all exhibit. I am hoping these will be easier to replace with all the room there. Now, do I go rubber or silicon...hmmm?
Howard Jones
Supporter
Get yourself a piece of glass, a picture in the frame will do, and a sheet of 300 grit sandpaper. place paper on glass and wet with some clean water. Place housing machined surface face down on sandpaper and do figure 8s until smooth. All done.
I am finding it difficult to find the correct hose orientation. This might be my answer. Thanks.
Even with a surface like this the sealant should work, but you have to make 2 steps. 1 you assemble all the part with the gasket and the sealant on both faces, but you do not thight the screws. Just screw it by hand. Then you wait at least one night and you tight the screws. After it shall be leak proof.
Interesting Jean-Marc, I don't recall my exact process. But it sounds like that would be easy enough to try. I think I will, next visit. Thanks!
I had to retorque my silicone hoses several times ove the years as they started leaking after a while.
More than I am used to with regular rubber hoses.
Replaced most of my Mikalor clamps by regular clamps also after my build as Mikalor has just a narrow range of clamping, not enough range to clamp more to stop the leaking.
Three years after finishing my build.
More than I am used to with regular rubber hoses.
Replaced most of my Mikalor clamps by regular clamps also after my build as Mikalor has just a narrow range of clamping, not enough range to clamp more to stop the leaking.
Three years after finishing my build.
Have you checked the thermostat recess depth in the housing? If it’s not deep enough the thermostat will hold the housing off the manifold and the side port will not have enough gasket crush to seal.
That’s where it appears to be leaking from.
Clayton
Great idea! I will check it when back there.
Made some progress today...replaced all four coolant front hoses. The minimal spacing between top and bottom tube running through the tunnel was the biggest challenge to deal with. I had to trim two of the hoses for a better fit.
Next is the thermostat gasket redo and checking the recess depth of the thermostat housing.
After
Before
Next is the thermostat gasket redo and checking the recess depth of the thermostat housing.
After
Before
I took the thermostat housing off and this is what I see.
The engine side looks and feels fine. There is a definite defect in the thermostat housing and rough surfaces. I have tried to find a replacement part, but that doesn't seem easy...with the same outlet configurations. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
I did try Real Stuff on both sides of the gasket. I am willing to try this again if that makes sense.
The engine side looks and feels fine. There is a definite defect in the thermostat housing and rough surfaces. I have tried to find a replacement part, but that doesn't seem easy...with the same outlet configurations. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
I did try Real Stuff on both sides of the gasket. I am willing to try this again if that makes sense.
Follow Howard’s post 246 to the word, then use a proper (FelPro) quality gasket. Use good gasket sealer and let it tac up a bit. That “should” cure your problems.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Thanks Brian. The outer lip of the thermostat is just above the current machined surface. Should it be below? I need to take the surface down a bit to smooth it. Also there is that pit on the narrowest edge point. I do have a couple FelPros.
Mike: Your thermostat housing is a Superformance-supplied piece. I would either have someone weld fill and grind the defect or try JB Weld and then sand the surface as flat as you can make it using Howard's method. The Thermostat must sit down into the recessed ring. If the lip is beyond that, it will never seal (or at least never seal well). I would suggest getting a Motorad high-flow thermostat - # 2000-180 if that works for your motor. Permatex makes a specific RTV sealant for this housing - I would use that. Get the correct FelPro gasket - # 35440 which has proper holes cut it in, not the one with the oval slots that don't line up. Put the SMALLEST amount of sealant on both sides of the gasket and reinstall. The gasket should sit over the top of the back of the thermostat when it is in the housing. Make sure your bolts are not bottoming out in the manifold and failing to tighten fully. If RTV squeezes out when you tighten it, you used TOO much sealant. The gasket does the sealing, not the RTV. Let it dry for a good 24 hours. You should be fine. Also, drill a 1/8" hole at the outer edge of the thermostat and position the hole at 12 o'clock which will allow water/air to bleed through ( drill inside where it contacts the housing). Finally, make sure you test the new thermostat in boiling water to ensure it opens at the correct temperature before installing it.
Follow Lee’s instructions and you should be home free. That’s what I love about this forum. knowledgeable builders sharing excellent tips from experience.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
I gotta say, y'all are the best! Thanks for all your experience and knowledge.
I do have the correct FelPro gasket, sheet of glass and 320 grit sand paper. I do not have the JB Weld nor the specific Permatex Sealant. Off to the store tomorrow!
I do have the correct FelPro gasket, sheet of glass and 320 grit sand paper. I do not have the JB Weld nor the specific Permatex Sealant. Off to the store tomorrow!
