Fling SLC Build Thread

[Michael Fling]

AJ- forgot to mention. I learned a tip from my body guy/painter that can save a lot of time in fabrication. Because I wanted my splitter to be removable from the body (even though the 2 pieces must be together for the from clam to work correctly with the hinges), you can see in the pic where the splitter overlaps the inside fender wells...

To get this shape added to the splitter, or for creating other shapes, go to Hobby Lobby and ask if you can buy their scrap clear plastic material they use for framing pictures (if they are not using glass). Cut this plastic material to size and panel bond together. I roughen the surface before panel bonding. Then fiberglass over it. This saves a lot of time. I have made close out panels, panels that enclose the rear metal frame at the base of the rear bonnet, and the tunnels on the front bonnet from this. I was concerned about paint sticking to this material if it was not covered with fiberglass. My painter said, "I can get paint to stick to a weiner".

 

[A.J. Schreder]

Thank you for the link back to your previous post. I remember that pic when you posted it, but I didn't have my car yet so it didn't make much sense to me. I also didn't remember the little clevis that attaches to the splitter. I was making that attachment too complicated in my mind. Did you purchase that clevice or did you fabricate it? Do you have a good source for buying the chrome moly tubes and heim joints?

Your attention to detail in your build log photos is extremely helpful. I really like what you are doing and will attempt to make it work for myself.

Incidentally, Troy's post on his method for using the expandable foam is just below your hinge pics. I referred to that a lot, but have also forgotten it was part of your thread.

Another nice thing about the hinging hood is making tire changes easier. My body is still not secured because I'm constantly taking it on and off. And the splitter isn't in the correct location yet either (fit issues I'm waiting til later to address). But I have a lot of droop in my front suspension and the spider and splitter squeeze the tires when I try to remove them. Having the splitter open with the hood will be a nice option. As long as the splitter doesn't hit the ground when the car is jacked up with the hood open.

Keep up the fantastic work!

A.J.

 

[Tom]

My painter said, "I can get paint to stick to a weiner".

What's he doing painting weiners? :shocked::laugh:

 

[Scott Rowland]

What's he doing painting weiners? :shocked::laugh:

He would first have to clean it. Weiner cleaner!

 

[Michael Fling]

Thank you for the link back to your previous post. I remember that pic when you posted it, but I didn't have my car yet so it didn't make much sense to me. I also didn't remember the little clevis that attaches to the splitter. I was making that attachment too complicated in my mind. Did you purchase that clevice or did you fabricate it? Do you have a good source for buying the chrome moly tubes and heim joints?

Your attention to detail in your build log photos is extremely helpful. I really like what you are doing and will attempt to make it work for myself.

Incidentally, Troy's post on his method for using the expandable foam is just below your hinge pics. I referred to that a lot, but have also forgotten it was part of your thread.

Another nice thing about the hinging hood is making tire changes easier. My body is still not secured because I'm constantly taking it on and off. And the splitter isn't in the correct location yet either (fit issues I'm waiting til later to address). But I have a lot of droop in my front suspension and the spider and splitter squeeze the tires when I try to remove them. Having the splitter open with the hood will be a nice option. As long as the splitter doesn't hit the ground when the car is jacked up with the hood open.

Keep up the fantastic work!

A.J.

I had a local fabricator make the chrome molly arms and clevis. You want the attachment to the splitter as far forward as possible. If attached there, the clam opens and the splitter does not touch the ground (even without being jacked up).
It was all custom made. I had the radiator modified to accept the arms. Instead of modifying the radiator, a more simple solution is to move the radiator back a little.

 

[Michael Fling]

BEEN A WHILE SINCE I POSTED. I REALLY HAVE BEEN WORKING ON THE CAR. BODY/PANEL GAPS ARE ALL COMPLETE, AND JUST ORDERED MY LCD DASH UNIT... LCD Competition Dash. SHOULD BE REALLY SPECIAL. CRAIG IS GOING TO LEAD THE WAY ON THE INSTALL- A GUINEA PIG AS I THINK HE IS GOING TO USE THE SAME UNIT. AFTER IT IS INSTALLED... OFF TO BODY SHOP. I HAVE MADE A FEW MORE MODS. NOT REALLY SURE HOW IT WILL AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE, BUT I THINK FOR THE DRIVE TO THE GROCERY STORE IT REALLY LOOKS COOL...

BOTH WINGS ARE SET AT 0 DEGREES, BUT BOTH ARE ADJUSTABLE.

 

[Scott Rowland]

So, Autometer finally released it now? Looks like price dropped $1000 also. Can't wait to see how it works out.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Hopefully it has an odometer. I didn't see it mentioned in the description.

 

[Howard Jones]

I am interested in the second element section of the rear wing. Do you have some pictures of the process? What was the profile that you used? Anything that you can share I would be interested in.

On a second note, I am pretty sure that a OEM built SLC (race tail with street splitter) will have quite a bit of Aero push. Any thoughts on Aero balance with the second element presumably adding rear downforce.

 

[Michael Fling]

I am interested in the second element section of the rear wing. Do you have some pictures of the process? What was the profile that you used? Anything that you can share I would be interested in.

On a second note, I am pretty sure that a OEM built SLC (race tail with street splitter) will have quite a bit of Aero push. Any thoughts on Aero balance with the second element presumably adding rear downforce.

Howard... I wish I had some science behind the rear wing mod, but I do not. The inspiration comes from the Ultima GTR rear wing. My car is being built for street and occasional track days. To be honest, I have no intention of tracking it to a point to ball it up. So most of my downforce is for the trip to the grocery store.

I placed duct tape over the RCR wing and laid up glass to create my top and bottom contour. I used panel bond to attach aluminum pieces on the inside bottom surface so I can thread into those for support (rod end adjusters) between the larger lower wing and the new upper wing. I then placed a 1" aluminum tube to serve as the front edge form. I fiberglassed around it. The upper wing is 5" wide. Before fiberglassing the end caps, coupling nuts were panel bonded in place so it could be secured to the endplates.

So that is about it.... Much like many of the body mods I have done... the inspiration is what I feel adds to the aesthetics of the car.

 

[Michael Fling]

So, Autometer finally released it now? Looks like price dropped $1000 also. Can't wait to see how it works out.

Actually, they said they were going to have a "Sportsman" version. As it turns out, they could never find a manufacturer to build some of the components at a price that allowed its price point to be significantly less than the LCD unit. So they gave up on that version and lowered the price $2000 from the original price on the LCD unit... now it sells for $2500.

Craig has spent time with the folks at Autometer to understand what we can and cannot do. We can integrate turn signals and high/low beam in addition to the typical "stuff". Unfortunately, it does NOT have an odometer. After ordering all of the sensors, harness, and extensions needed, I spent $3900. A lot of $$$ but I feel this will allow my interior to match the style of the exterior.

 

[Michael Fling]

A few updates before the car goes to Dallas for the LED dash install and then back to OKC and off to the body shop. I have driven the car a little.... I have learned a few things-

The next software update on the LED dash will have an odometer!!!!

I am certain I could win a hill climb contest. 1st gear is useless for typical street use. If I could order the Graz with a different gear set I would highly advise it! I am sure I am going to make a change to another set up- $3000.

I noted a front brake leak. Turns out I was supplied with wrong size banjos. After inspecting, I learned my threads were gone! Dangerous and disappointing. You can see the thread "Brake Caliper Problem". I will retapp them and all should be good.

A few more mods completed... I highly modified my front fenders. I have access panels where the OEM headlights can be easily removed from the wheel well. I fiberglassed tunnels for the ducts for brake cooling. Because my front bonnet hinges open/closed, I had to make them to accommodate the open/close. Here they are:

I also fabricated a tow for the rear of the car. It hinges with the rear bonnet and is attached to the rear hinge on the chassis. I am working on one for the front too.

 

[John]

Good progress. Hope I can see it in person when you bring it to Dallas.

 

[Michael Fling]

I just received an email from RCR Customer Service. Because of the expense I have in already powder coating the calipers etc. , they asked that I send them back to RCR so that they can repair them at no charge. That indeed is customer service, TY RCR!

 

[Dan Carter]

Mike

Good to see you got some help, that has to be some relief.

It is certainly too late for you, but I checked my Brembo fittings and they appear to be M10 x 1.0. I have not tightened my down so I hope that is the correct fittings. Maybe someone else will chime in and confirm for everyone else. Hate to see a repeat.

Any idea what size fittings yours are going to be repaired too?

 

[Michael Fling]

Have the electrical 99% complete. My car spent a few months in Dallas at Craig's. He played instructor and trained me as his apprentice wiring guru. I must say that without his expertise and direction, my car would never get finished. Hugs to you old great one!

I have done a few things that are different. The Dash unit is amazing. The latest software update gives it an odometer read. I have 2 cameras on the center monitor. I can view rear close, rear broad or front. I have found some really cool LED's that are in many places:

1. Under dash and from center console to light to seating area
2. Map lights for driver and passenger
3. Dome lights when doors open or they can come on with switch when doors are closed
4. Under front and rear bonnet
5. On bottom of doors to light up entry/exit area when getting in/out of car.
6. In glove box (Fuse box)

I have LED switches that operate doors, power, hazards, map lights, front lift, pedals, accusump, ignition. There is a USB outlet and estopp billet button

I have been careful to make everything accessible for maintenance. Removable panels over accusump, on dash, and roof panel.

I made a custom panel for for my heat/air operation. I mounted the lift and pedals adjust next to it.

A few pics:

 

[Will Campbell]

Pictures aren't showing.

 

[Michael Fling]

Pictures aren't showing.

They show on mine?????

 

[Rebeca Lynn]

They show on mine?????

photobucket requires you to pay for hosting now. So all we getting a clock image

 

[Michael Fling]

photobucket requires you to pay for hosting now. So all we getting a clock image

pics are directly from my computer... not photo bucket. They are showing on my computer. CONFUSED for sure.