That's why we new pre mark the body prior cutouts to shipping , the guidelines really simplify things
Eric's SLC Project Code Name "Grifter"
- Thread starter Eric McClellan
- Start date
Frankly, that's what saved me. I cut along the lines and the hinges almost dropped right in. Now, I did need to go a little further here and there with some of the cuts but over all it worked out very well.
Now, if you could mark the doors for where to cut, that would have saved me a solid hour! LOL
Once I knew where to cut for the doors, everything went like clockwork. Made the cuts in the doors, fabbed up a couple mildly thick gauged sheet metal for front and back of the door frame and it kind of 'clunked' into place.
As I told Howard, I'm waiting to get the body on the car before adding anything else like the door strikers and latch. The door doesn't quite line up with the body lines (higher near the rear corner) right now, but I'm %110 positive that's because the body isn't perfectly straight on the ground as it sits.
~Eric
EDIT: I did notice that the top hinge is giving me too much gap near the front of the door so I'll have to open up the hole about a 1/16th to give me some play to move the door slightly forward.
Once the rear of the cab is supported and not drooping whilst sitting on the floor the door tops will line up just fine.
THat's what I figured would happen. I wasn't super worried about it. I will have to go back and cut out a little bit more from the lower hinge as it catches in some minor places.
What a difference a little bed liner can do! Took me the better part of a day, but it looks a hell of a lot better than bare fiberglass. Plus, it will be able to handle rock chips pretty smoothly.
I also painted the inside of the middle section with this stuff as well.
The car got a new nickname, the "Stormtrooper" from some of my friends, hell could be worse... but my god, those guys suck at aiming!
I also painted the inside of the middle section with this stuff as well.
The car got a new nickname, the "Stormtrooper" from some of my friends, hell could be worse... but my god, those guys suck at aiming!
I might have to go that route as well, btw,, this may seem like a bit of retarded question, but did it add much weight? Though I have to admit, I was surprised how much the panels weighed already. Which isn't necessary a bad thing,, just means they were made with a lot of fiberglass and meant to last (or be sat on...lol)
Took roughly 3/4 of a gallon. It was $43 at Wally-World, so all in all it wasn't bad. I was pretty liberal with this stuff and even put a third coat on the front and rear clam shells with only two coats on the middle section.
I suppose it added a few pounds, the bucket felt like it weighed 5-8lbs and I used 3/4 of that .... soooo...*shrug*
I'm not worried about breaking the fiberglass exactly, just trying to make sure it looks decent for a long period of time. That is a fair point, I do have to cut out fender louver holes soon...
Now... to figure out which one is the drivers side, they are slightly different... ha!
I love just the look of the underbody being black. Very nice work.
Love this PIC...It makes me smile every time I see it!
I think this little motor-head has found his calling:burnout:
I think this little motor-head has found his calling:burnout:
More updates:
My son is finally old enough to really help daddy in the garage, here he is drilling and tapping his very first hole!
Thanks! He likes to help, but gets bored easily and switches projects a lot... I can't tell you how many times I've had the LR tire on and off because of this kid! LOL
I posted a video of the fuel system for reference if anyone wants/needs it. I based it on this thread: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/41560-fuel-system.html
Here's the link: GHD’s Grifter’s fuel system is complete! | Gearhead Daily
Updates are coming but wanted to check in with people to see if they had any suggestions for the head light clips?
I have the hole drilled for the headlight stud and the plastic piece installed but they don't seem to want to go in... I push pretty hard and even tapped firmly with a hammer but they just won't go in for the life of me
I have the hole drilled for the headlight stud and the plastic piece installed but they don't seem to want to go in... I push pretty hard and even tapped firmly with a hammer but they just won't go in for the life of me
I've given the head lights a rest for a bit as I was getting frustrated with them. I'll attack them another night.
Since then, I've managed to install the E-brake units
Install the AC unit.
Drill and weld up the steering wheel adapter, mock up the seats for placement and get the e-brake handle situated for final placement when the shifter gets mounted.
I've managed to get one side of lights to fight right with a lot of fiddling with a drill nibbler/grinder attachment. Now, getting those plastic nubs to fit properly... that's another story.
I also figured out the right combination to get rid of the packing tape residue.
Liberal amounts of goof-off, let sit for an hour or more, scrape off with plastic razor repeat if necessary.
Finally, while it looks like i'm just playing making race car noises, i'm actually fitting myself for seat angle, height and distance from roll bar to my head with my helmet.... But mostly race car noises.
Since then, I've managed to install the E-brake units
Install the AC unit.
Drill and weld up the steering wheel adapter, mock up the seats for placement and get the e-brake handle situated for final placement when the shifter gets mounted.
I've managed to get one side of lights to fight right with a lot of fiddling with a drill nibbler/grinder attachment. Now, getting those plastic nubs to fit properly... that's another story.
I also figured out the right combination to get rid of the packing tape residue.
Liberal amounts of goof-off, let sit for an hour or more, scrape off with plastic razor repeat if necessary.
Finally, while it looks like i'm just playing making race car noises, i'm actually fitting myself for seat angle, height and distance from roll bar to my head with my helmet.... But mostly race car noises.
Dont forget to replace your rear shock springs. The padded area on the inside of the front fender needs a little more undercoating, mine have several rock dots in them, looks like stars.
I've been told to go with 750lb rear springs for better traction, is this what you mean?
As far as the undercoating, I have the fender vents for that area so I'll be cutting out a large section of that to attach them from the bottom. I did put 3 coats of the undercoating on the front and rear clams.
I've added a couple videos:
Car overview:
Gearhead Daily Introduces an in depth video about our RCR Superlite Cars – SLC called “Grifter” | Gearhead Daily
Clutch explanation:
RCR-Superlite Coupe SLC Clutch: How to mate an LS motor to a Porsche transaxle. | Gearhead Daily
Car overview:
Gearhead Daily Introduces an in depth video about our RCR Superlite Cars – SLC called “Grifter” | Gearhead Daily
Clutch explanation:
RCR-Superlite Coupe SLC Clutch: How to mate an LS motor to a Porsche transaxle. | Gearhead Daily
