Columbus Ohio RCR40

[NickV]

We finished mounting the radiator fans which is exciting. We mounted them using a fan shroud we built with some scrap aluminum sheeting we had in inventory.

There isn't room to offset the fan shroud due to the front nostril panel, so there isn't room to bolt the fans simply through the shroud using the convenient holes in the fans themselves. Instead we decided to bolt them using captive nuts in the channels on the top and bottom of the fans. We found that 1/4" bolts fit great just slightly shaving down two sides.

I welded tabs onto the top of the radiator to bolt the top of the shroud, and then the bottom of the shroud can simply bolt through rivnuts in the empty space on the bottom of the radiator.

Really happy with the finished product. Some buffing and powder coat will clean it up nicely as well.

 

[NickV]

Next up was the fuel filler tubes and caps! We took heavy inspiration here from Sean's build and used 2" stainless. (aluminum is out bc well..... you all have seen my aluminum welds)

First I mocked it up using the 3D printed modeling blocks I posted about previously that were intended to be used for the exhaust. Luckily I had bends already printed that were 3" CLR so they worked great. Sadly I completely neglected to take a photo of the mock up. It made it really easy to cut out the exact bends we needed and tack weld the pieces together.

We mounted the tack welded pipe to the tank and then drew a circle around the filler cap with it positioned exactly how we wanted it with respect to the fiberglass body. This made it easy to fabricate a perfect flange to position the filler pipe where we wanted it.

It was a blast TIG welding these, and the purge system we cobbled together worked great. Definitely a confidence booster we can pull off welding the exhaust up as well.

We also went ahead and installed some tank vents.
In the future we will install a seal between the filler neck flange and the filler cap so that there can't be any leaks in the event of a disaster...

 

[Randy Folsom]

We finished mounting the radiator fans which is exciting. We mounted them using a fan shroud we built with some scrap aluminum sheeting we had in inventory.

View attachment 138045


There isn't room to offset the fan shroud due to the front nostril panel, so there isn't room to bolt the fans simply through the shroud using the convenient holes in the fans themselves. Instead we decided to bolt them using captive nuts in the channels on the top and bottom of the fans. We found that 1/4" bolts fit great just slightly shaving down two sides.

View attachment 138047

I welded tabs onto the top of the radiator to bolt the top of the shroud, and then the bottom of the shroud can simply bolt through rivnuts in the empty space on the bottom of the radiator.
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Really happy with the finished product. Some buffing and powder coat will clean it up nicely as well.

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There was some recent discussion regarding shrouds here:
Post in thread 'GT40 - Radiator Fan Shroud'
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/gt40-radiator-fan-shroud.30519/post-593857

 

[NickV]

There was some recent discussion regarding shrouds here:
Post in thread 'GT40 - Radiator Fan Shroud'
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/gt40-radiator-fan-shroud.30519/post-593857

Hey Randy, I am investigating this now as well. TBD on if high speed bypass vents are necessary for this application.

 

[Randy Folsom]

It might be just fine as long as you aren’t running it on the track. More important is to close off all the gaps with shrouds around the nose inlet so all the incoming air has to go through the radiator. Also on the back side ensure all the air has to go out via the nostril(s) so as to create low pressure.

 

[NickV]

Finally finished the radiator hoses. We just went to the local autoparts store and looked around their in stock selection for radiator hose bends that seemed useful. It was a better deal than just buying 90 degree universal hose. I wanted a coolant temp sensor for after the radiator to monitor real-time cooling performance. I found a nifty prepaid tube that worked out perfect. It just clears the front nostril panel, so I think minimum modifications will be needed in that area.

Holes are cut for the fog lights, turn signals, and head lights. Really happy with how they turned out.

Things are starting to look like a real car!!!

I ordered the amazon fog lights pointed out previously by Vinny (THANKS VINNY!). They worked out great, and I am excited that they aren't sealed beam units so the bulb is simply replaceable. I ended up taking off the rear covers though, as they were clearly not water proof anyways, and with them off the installation was 100 times easier as the glass lens had a lip that can cleanly butt up against the fiber glass. The old screw holes for the plastic cover could be re-purposed to mount the lens from the back side. For the money, I think these are awesome. They may be a bit dim though...

 

[Jean-Marc]

Very interesting, Nick, would you pass the designation of the part on Amazon site.

 

[NickV]

Very interesting, Nick, would you pass the designation of the part on Amazon site.

This picture better shows the black cover that I removed from both units. The wire grommet for the wires to passthrough easily popped out as well.

Amazon.com

 

[Devin]

This picture better shows the black cover that I removed from both units. The wire grommet for the wires to passthrough easily popped out as well.

Amazon.com

View attachment 138395

Got the same ones for my build too but haven’t mounted them yet so thanks for the insight and feedback for my future installation!

Devin

 

[NickV]

Hey everyone! sorry for disappearing for awhile. About two months ago I had a nasty accident on a dirtbike and I've been busy trying to get back on my feet. Last week I worked on the gt40 though. I'm trying to perfect the body gaps and I'm using a 1/8" shim I made. Below is a quick photo of what the front clip currently looks like, I think its coming along nicely!

 

[Devin]

Sorry to hear that Nick…glad you are back on your feet again! Gaps are looking good and look forward to seeing your progress again.

Cheers,

Devin

 

[NickV]

I decided to work on the interior air system a bit and add ducting to supply cool outside air from the three main exterior NACA ducts on the front clip. The method I am trying out is using 3d prints to fiberglass onto the front clip. Eventually I will 3d print ducting for inside the cabin too that will supplement some aluminum flexible ducting. My current plan is to allow the ducting to pass through the chassis at one point to feed one 4" in line electric fan blower rated for 285 cfm. I plan on having some sort of rubber boot at the chassis passthrough so the front clip can still easily be opened. I modeled some 3d prints with a 3d scanner I have which was quite helpful. Some quick fiberglass work will install the prints more permanently. My dad and I picked out some pretty nice looking chrome outlet bezels to install into the dash at some point. The 4" fan will be supplied by a 4" line and will push air through 2.5" hosing to some bezels. These seems to just barely fit the pre-molded positions in the dash: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Vint...es-Tri-Bar-Louver-2-5-Inch-Chrome,420318.html

 

[Sean Starkey]

I decided to work on the interior air system a bit and add ducting to supply cool outside air from the three main exterior NACA ducts on the front clip. The method I am trying out is using 3d prints to fiberglass onto the front clip. Eventually I will 3d print ducting for inside the cabin too that will supplement some aluminum flexible ducting. My current plan is to allow the ducting to pass through the chassis at one point to feed one 4" in line electric fan blower rated for 285 cfm. I plan on having some sort of rubber boot at the chassis passthrough so the front clip can still easily be opened. I modeled some 3d prints with a 3d scanner I have which was quite helpful. Some quick fiberglass work will install the prints more permanently. My dad and I picked out some pretty nice looking chrome outlet bezels to install into the dash at some point. The 4" fan will be supplied by a 4" line and will push air through 2.5" hosing to some bezels. These seems to just barely fit the pre-molded positions in the dash: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Vint...es-Tri-Bar-Louver-2-5-Inch-Chrome,420318.html

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Very nice!

 

[Scott Davis]

I built my surgetank tank very similar to yours but used an aeromotive fuel pump setup (maybe less ideal than yours). I haven't been real keen on the setup lately because essentially we're pumping fuel continually against the seal of the fuel pump in the surge tank, until it flows back to the main tank. Obviously having the return at the top pretty much guarantees this and LPHV will outpace the high pressure pump anyway. While your's seems to be designed for this purpose, I can't really see how it's sealed. Aeromotive suggested in my case to put viton o-rings around each bolt in addition to sealant.

Needless to say I don't want fuel in my engine bay. I'm considering moving the overflow to the side of the tank instead of top and adding a small level sensor in my surge so the LP pump doesn't run continually but keeps it mostly full. Something like this Low fuel sensor.

 

[Scott Davis]

Aeromotive recommended this as the Sealant. I think they were mostly concerned with fuel leaking around bolt/thread, not necessarily the gasket or o-ring of the fuel pump.

 

[NickV]

I built my surgetank tank very similar to yours but used an aeromotive fuel pump setup (maybe less ideal than yours). I haven't been real keen on the setup lately because essentially we're pumping fuel continually against the seal of the fuel pump in the surge tank, until it flows back to the main tank. Obviously having the return at the top pretty much guarantees this and LPHV will outpace the high pressure pump anyway. While your's seems to be designed for this purpose, I can't really see how it's sealed. Aeromotive suggested in my case to put viton o-rings around each bolt in addition to sealant.

Needless to say I don't want fuel in my engine bay. I'm considering moving the overflow to the side of the tank instead of top and adding a small level sensor in my surge so the LP pump doesn't run continually but keeps it mostly full. Something like this Low fuel sensor.

Sorry for the slow reply. I think you have a good idea that should work fine, but I was reminded/warned to only pull fuel from the top of the tank as designed to prevent the contents of the tank from leaving in the event of an unnoticed leak which seems like a valid concern in my opinion. I am not sure what you mean by, "While yours seems to be designed for this purpose, I can't really see how it's sealed" what do you mean exactly?

 

[NickV]

So my dad and I decided the 3d prints will work great and made the move to fiberglass/glue them in. I'm happy with how the ducts turned out I think they should work well. We can't imagine the effort involved in making these ducts without a 3D printer!

I need to re-design and re-print one part that connects the DS ducting to the center naca duct and ultimately the PS ducting. We decided I initially modeled it to be too narrow.

 

[Randy V]

I made my ducts from flat-stock fiberglass, hot glue, epoxy resin and kitty-hair. The interesting part was designing the water traps so I wouldn’t be pushing water into the interior.

 

[NickV]

I made my ducts from flat-stock fiberglass, hot glue, epoxy resin and kitty-hair. The interesting part was designing the water traps so I wouldn’t be pushing water into the interior.

Looks good! I agree water traps are tricky. I am thinking about how to handle that now. I want the trap(s) to be easily accessible to be drained if needed. I may put traps under the dash in the interior of the car just before little air filter mounts, tbd on that though.

 

[Randy V]

Rough drawing of my water trap using a splitter.
Yes, this will cut down the volume and force of the air coming through, but it’s probably not that substantial anyway.
Just have to make sure that you clear the front tires.