Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
Bonnet, Part VII, Tuning
With the hinges in place a bit of fine tuning was done. The first issue noted was that the wheel well opening height was 26” on the driver side and 25 ½” on the passenger side. A level across the bonnet confirmed that it was tilted slightly.
By adjusting the hinges, the openings were evened to 25 ¾” on both sides. But that revealed another problem: The gap on the matting surfaces on the passenger side was more than a quarter of an inch while it was too tight on the driver side. This required removing the bonnet and doing more fiberglass work.
With this done, the mating surfaces now have approximately 3/32” inch gap on both sides, the clip is level, and the wheel well opening heights are equal.
With the hinges in place a bit of fine tuning was done. The first issue noted was that the wheel well opening height was 26” on the driver side and 25 ½” on the passenger side. A level across the bonnet confirmed that it was tilted slightly.
By adjusting the hinges, the openings were evened to 25 ¾” on both sides. But that revealed another problem: The gap on the matting surfaces on the passenger side was more than a quarter of an inch while it was too tight on the driver side. This required removing the bonnet and doing more fiberglass work.
With this done, the mating surfaces now have approximately 3/32” inch gap on both sides, the clip is level, and the wheel well opening heights are equal.
Attention to details like this is what makes your build log do great.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Knowing first-hand how much effort is involved in making the above changes that anyone who doesn't read this thread will never know about, it is hard to quantify the degree of understatement Chuck's post represents. I chased gaps for days and mine still look amateur...
Well done indeed!
Well done indeed!
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Chirs and Brian, thanks for the feedback.
This project feels like it is moving SO SLOW, even though I have been working on it steadily for the last year. The GT40 was a well sorted kit with minimal need for designing and fabricating parts. This project, however, is different. So many hours spent coming up with a design for parts, testing, fabricating, and then often doing it over. But it beats going to the office every day.
This project feels like it is moving SO SLOW, even though I have been working on it steadily for the last year. The GT40 was a well sorted kit with minimal need for designing and fabricating parts. This project, however, is different. So many hours spent coming up with a design for parts, testing, fabricating, and then often doing it over. But it beats going to the office every day.
Bonnett, Underside Panels, Part I
Many hours were spent considering options and creating patterns for the underside panels. The goal was to keep the look of the original but assure the aluminum panels would be securely held in place. The lower aft panels were tackled first.
The lip on the body was trimmed, tapering it to a half inch on the lower portion.
Patterns were made and panels cut from .030 aluminum A one inch lip on the top will provide a mating surface for the rubber strip to be added later. To secure the panel to the fiberglass body a quarter inch thick fiberglass gusset, one inch wide, was made following the same technique previously posted. Clecos are temporarily holding the aluminum panels in place as the remaining panels are fabricated. We plan to use screws to secure these panels so they will be removable.
Next the smaller angled panels were made from .030 aluminum. As on the original, aluminum straps were used to fasten these panels to the frame. A separate corner piece joins the two sections together. A half inch fold on the forward edge adds to its rigidity. Rivets will be added later to match the look of the original.
Many hours were spent considering options and creating patterns for the underside panels. The goal was to keep the look of the original but assure the aluminum panels would be securely held in place. The lower aft panels were tackled first.
The lip on the body was trimmed, tapering it to a half inch on the lower portion.
Patterns were made and panels cut from .030 aluminum A one inch lip on the top will provide a mating surface for the rubber strip to be added later. To secure the panel to the fiberglass body a quarter inch thick fiberglass gusset, one inch wide, was made following the same technique previously posted. Clecos are temporarily holding the aluminum panels in place as the remaining panels are fabricated. We plan to use screws to secure these panels so they will be removable.
Next the smaller angled panels were made from .030 aluminum. As on the original, aluminum straps were used to fasten these panels to the frame. A separate corner piece joins the two sections together. A half inch fold on the forward edge adds to its rigidity. Rivets will be added later to match the look of the original.
Bonnet, Underside Panels, Part II
With the lower panels in place, work on the upper panels began. A lot of time was spent making patterns and experimenting. The aft panels were fabricated using the same fiberglass panel technique discussed in prior posts. This will create a more rigid fastening point for the other aluminum panels. Once finished and painted they will match the aluminum panels well.
Once these panels were fabricated, they were temporarily held in place with a few spots of hot gun glue. To assure correct alignment, a level was used and a simple spacer made from a strip of foam board and half inch wide length of wood. When the bonnet is closed there is half inch gap separating the upper and lower panels to provide space for the rubber weather stripping that will be added a long time from now.
The string ran from side to side confirmed these panels were aligned. With their location confirmed, epoxy and flox were used to permanently secure the panels. The remaining panels can now be laid out and made.
With the lower panels in place, work on the upper panels began. A lot of time was spent making patterns and experimenting. The aft panels were fabricated using the same fiberglass panel technique discussed in prior posts. This will create a more rigid fastening point for the other aluminum panels. Once finished and painted they will match the aluminum panels well.
Once these panels were fabricated, they were temporarily held in place with a few spots of hot gun glue. To assure correct alignment, a level was used and a simple spacer made from a strip of foam board and half inch wide length of wood. When the bonnet is closed there is half inch gap separating the upper and lower panels to provide space for the rubber weather stripping that will be added a long time from now.
The string ran from side to side confirmed these panels were aligned. With their location confirmed, epoxy and flox were used to permanently secure the panels. The remaining panels can now be laid out and made.
Bonnet, Undersigned Panels, Part III
Time was spent experimenting with different patterns for the longer aluminum panels extending from front to rear. They need to clear the shock absorbers, frame members, and tie into the fiberglass panels noted in the prior post. Separate patterns were made for the right and left side from quarter inch foam board and taped in place to confirm alignment.
With the location of the panels confirmed, the bonnet was removed to simplify things. To hold the aluminum panels in place, a one-inch-wide fiberglass gussets were made, using the same method discussed previously, to provide a solid connection point for the aluminum panels. They were temporarily secured with dabs of hot glue. Once the location was confirmed the gussets were secured with West System epoxy mixed with flocks.
With the gussets epoxied in place, we can start cutting out and installing the panels.
Time was spent experimenting with different patterns for the longer aluminum panels extending from front to rear. They need to clear the shock absorbers, frame members, and tie into the fiberglass panels noted in the prior post. Separate patterns were made for the right and left side from quarter inch foam board and taped in place to confirm alignment.
With the location of the panels confirmed, the bonnet was removed to simplify things. To hold the aluminum panels in place, a one-inch-wide fiberglass gussets were made, using the same method discussed previously, to provide a solid connection point for the aluminum panels. They were temporarily secured with dabs of hot glue. Once the location was confirmed the gussets were secured with West System epoxy mixed with flocks.
With the gussets epoxied in place, we can start cutting out and installing the panels.
As always Chuck fantastic work and excellent write up. I always look forward to reading your build log.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Bonnet, Underside Panels, Part IV
The next project was fabricating the aluminum panels inside the nose. To support the upper panel, a fiberglass gusset was fabricated end epoxied in place.
Patterns were laid out to confirm the dimensions so that 20-gauge aluminum could be cut to fit.
Angle brackets, ¾” on each side, were used to support the panels. Adhesive will be used to secure them to the fiberglass side and rivets on the aluminum side. For now, clecos are temporarily holding them in place until the fiberglass is painted.
Next the screen needs to be fabricated.
The next project was fabricating the aluminum panels inside the nose. To support the upper panel, a fiberglass gusset was fabricated end epoxied in place.
Patterns were laid out to confirm the dimensions so that 20-gauge aluminum could be cut to fit.
Angle brackets, ¾” on each side, were used to support the panels. Adhesive will be used to secure them to the fiberglass side and rivets on the aluminum side. For now, clecos are temporarily holding them in place until the fiberglass is painted.
Next the screen needs to be fabricated.
Bonnet, Underside Panels, Part V
The screen is another dominant feature. Looking at photos of originals, there are notable variations in the manner they were secured. We opted to make a frame, consistent with one prototype, to give a more finished look. As usual, a pattern was made to confirm the dimensions.
The screen is supported by angle sections, ¾ inch on each side. Nutserts for 6/32 SS screws will make attachment of the screen straightforward.
The frame around the screen was cut from aluminum. Note the screen is set forward an inch within the opening, similar to the original. The screen material is aluminum with half inch spacing. It came from McMaster-Carr, part #9227T52.
The D Type has rubber panel seals in certain locations, sandwiched between strips of aluminum and held together with rivets. Brass rivets can be seen in several originals. Just for fun, we added rubber seals around the carb air tunnel.
For now, most of these panels and brackets are held in place with clecos. Once the inside of the bonnet is painted, they will be permanently installed.
The screen is another dominant feature. Looking at photos of originals, there are notable variations in the manner they were secured. We opted to make a frame, consistent with one prototype, to give a more finished look. As usual, a pattern was made to confirm the dimensions.
The screen is supported by angle sections, ¾ inch on each side. Nutserts for 6/32 SS screws will make attachment of the screen straightforward.
The frame around the screen was cut from aluminum. Note the screen is set forward an inch within the opening, similar to the original. The screen material is aluminum with half inch spacing. It came from McMaster-Carr, part #9227T52.
The D Type has rubber panel seals in certain locations, sandwiched between strips of aluminum and held together with rivets. Brass rivets can be seen in several originals. Just for fun, we added rubber seals around the carb air tunnel.
For now, most of these panels and brackets are held in place with clecos. Once the inside of the bonnet is painted, they will be permanently installed.
Neil
Supporter
The threaded inserts look like Riv-Nuts rather that Nutserts.
Neil
Supporter
Riv-Nuts were developed by BF Goodrich back in the 1930s as blind threaded inserts for sheet metal. They are placed into a drilled hole and a threaded tool is inserted and pulled tight, flaring and expanding the end of the Riv-Nut behind the panel. The tool is then removed and the Riv- Nut is ready for a fastener to be threaded in. The fastener can twist the Riv-Nut in its hole if it is over- torqued. Some special types have been made with key ways to prevent twist but they require a special punched hole, not a simple round drilled hole. The rear expanded bulb prevents the Riv-Nut from pulling out of the hole.
Nutserts were introduced by Avdel for use in thick metal panels. They are not for sheet metal. Their expansion takes place by one half of its length being drawn into the other half through a tapered fit. This expands the Nutsert into the hole and embossed ribs on its OD resist torque- out. In practice, Nutserts are not as secure as Riv-Nuts but if the hole is in thick metal or even a blind hole, you have no choice.
In both cases a bit of epoxy in the hole can improve torque-out but only marginally.
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Bonnet, Underside Panels, Part VI
We cut out revised patterns from heavy poster board to confirm the fit of the aluminum panels and tire clearance.
The aluminum panels were cut from .040, 18-gauge material. They are temporarily secured with clecos but will eventually be held in place with several screws, with a row of nonfunctional rivets added to match the look of the original.
Two-inch-wide folded strips connect the fiberglass panels to the aluminum panels resulting a strong, rigid structure. They will be held in place with rivets and adhesive at final assembly.
At a later time, additional rivets will be added to capture the look of the original.
We cut out revised patterns from heavy poster board to confirm the fit of the aluminum panels and tire clearance.
The aluminum panels were cut from .040, 18-gauge material. They are temporarily secured with clecos but will eventually be held in place with several screws, with a row of nonfunctional rivets added to match the look of the original.
Two-inch-wide folded strips connect the fiberglass panels to the aluminum panels resulting a strong, rigid structure. They will be held in place with rivets and adhesive at final assembly.
At a later time, additional rivets will be added to capture the look of the original.
Joe
Aircraft Spruce is the source of the foam (Last-A-Foam 6 lb) and the fiberglass cloth (BID Fiberglass RA7725). Details here:
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-539255
Aircraft Spruce is the source of the foam (Last-A-Foam 6 lb) and the fiberglass cloth (BID Fiberglass RA7725). Details here:
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-539255
Seats revisited
I thought the seat backs and seat bases were finished, as noted in a previous post. Then looking at the pictures posted I noticed that the seat base and back were not aligned. Funny how one can spend hours on something and not notice an issue, then see it in a picture.
Here is the flawed seat. Note the outside angled section lines up with the seat base a couple inches further inward than the inside angled section. The inside one is correct.
By revising the dimensions of the outside panel, the problem was solved. This will also make the center section of the seat back wider which may prove a good thing. The back seat cushion will now align with the bottom seat cushion.
A two-day project now done. (The clecos are temporary).
Designing and sewing the cushions is being pushed back until . . . not sure when. In the meantime, we are still working on the bonnet.
I thought the seat backs and seat bases were finished, as noted in a previous post. Then looking at the pictures posted I noticed that the seat base and back were not aligned. Funny how one can spend hours on something and not notice an issue, then see it in a picture.
Here is the flawed seat. Note the outside angled section lines up with the seat base a couple inches further inward than the inside angled section. The inside one is correct.
By revising the dimensions of the outside panel, the problem was solved. This will also make the center section of the seat back wider which may prove a good thing. The back seat cushion will now align with the bottom seat cushion.
A two-day project now done. (The clecos are temporary).
Designing and sewing the cushions is being pushed back until . . . not sure when. In the meantime, we are still working on the bonnet.
