Excellent suggestion. Thanks.
Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
I've had great experience with the 3M 8115 as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196608351492
It's not equal parts, but is equal amount of plunger travel. The 3M tool to deliver the adhesive is expensive. I just use a socket extension to push out equal amounts of plunger travel for parts A and B of the adhesive, then mix on a plate like JB Weld.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196608351492
It's not equal parts, but is equal amount of plunger travel. The 3M tool to deliver the adhesive is expensive. I just use a socket extension to push out equal amounts of plunger travel for parts A and B of the adhesive, then mix on a plate like JB Weld.
Another good option. Thanks.
Seats, Part VI
A reliable method of locking the seat frame in place was needed. A spring-loaded inside rod with a 3/8” diameter tip that can snap into the forward blocks was designed and fabricated. This is starting to get complicated.
The inner diameter of the 7/8 inch tube was .745 inches. It had to be reamed to .750 so that a six inch long .75 inch steel rod could slip inside both ends. Then a 3/8” tip had to be turned on the lathe to match the holes in the mounting block. This took many hours.
This picture of the inside components next to the outside tube illustrates the final result. The spacer section is aluminum rather than steel, turned on the lathe to about .73 to assure it will slide easily.
It came together well. The front cross support bar is easily removed and the springs assure a positive, audible, lock on the support blocks.
We found stainless steel quarter inch diameter knurled head thumb screws at McMaster Carr that work perfectly. Part # 91746A310. The steel rod was taped for a 10-24 screw and the knob was easily installed. After final welding and painting, a bit of red Locktite will secure this in place.
A reliable method of locking the seat frame in place was needed. A spring-loaded inside rod with a 3/8” diameter tip that can snap into the forward blocks was designed and fabricated. This is starting to get complicated.
The inner diameter of the 7/8 inch tube was .745 inches. It had to be reamed to .750 so that a six inch long .75 inch steel rod could slip inside both ends. Then a 3/8” tip had to be turned on the lathe to match the holes in the mounting block. This took many hours.
This picture of the inside components next to the outside tube illustrates the final result. The spacer section is aluminum rather than steel, turned on the lathe to about .73 to assure it will slide easily.
It came together well. The front cross support bar is easily removed and the springs assure a positive, audible, lock on the support blocks.
We found stainless steel quarter inch diameter knurled head thumb screws at McMaster Carr that work perfectly. Part # 91746A310. The steel rod was taped for a 10-24 screw and the knob was easily installed. After final welding and painting, a bit of red Locktite will secure this in place.
Neil
Supporter
Did you see the movie "Day Of The Jackal"?
No, but it is on my list.
Seats, Part VIII
The rear seat frame does not use a spring-loaded rod but rather a fixed rod with a 3/8” pin that will slide into the 3/8” wide and three-eighths-inch-deep groove on the supporting block. Accessing a spring-loaded pin on the rear of the seat would not be practical once the cushion is in place.
Four support rods were needed, two per seat. Steel rods with a ¾ inch outside diameter were milled to .73 and then cut to four-inch lengths. A pin 3/8” in diameter and 3/8” long was turned on the lathe.
After the fit was confirmed leaving only 1/16” gap between the support block and the rod end, the rods were secured by drilling a 1/8” hole and inserting a pin on the bottom side. The pin was left slightly proud should it ever need to be removed.
Next are the cushion supports.
The rear seat frame does not use a spring-loaded rod but rather a fixed rod with a 3/8” pin that will slide into the 3/8” wide and three-eighths-inch-deep groove on the supporting block. Accessing a spring-loaded pin on the rear of the seat would not be practical once the cushion is in place.
Four support rods were needed, two per seat. Steel rods with a ¾ inch outside diameter were milled to .73 and then cut to four-inch lengths. A pin 3/8” in diameter and 3/8” long was turned on the lathe.
After the fit was confirmed leaving only 1/16” gap between the support block and the rod end, the rods were secured by drilling a 1/8” hole and inserting a pin on the bottom side. The pin was left slightly proud should it ever need to be removed.
Next are the cushion supports.
Seats, Part IX
Foam cushions will be placed over the frame, so flat supports are needed. These were cut from 20 gauge aluminum and folded to fit snugly over the frame.
Plans were drawn and the parts cut, mostly with a hand shear. The goal was to cut and fold the pieces as precisely as possible to assure a good fit.
Each of the inside corners was drilled to a quarter inch before cutting to avoid sharp angles that can lead to cracking of the aluminum.
The edges were sanded and/or filed to make sure the dimensions were exact.
Once the pieces were cut, the sides were folded. The folds are important since they provide significant strength and define the fit, so time was spent lining the pieces up to assure the bends were correct.
The Eastwood tool has plates that can be removed for fabricating boxes, which was needed to make the ends folds.
Here is an example of a folded corner with the rounded corner visible. Sharp corners can cause stress cracks.
At this point, the majority of the cutting and bending for the seats is done.
Foam cushions will be placed over the frame, so flat supports are needed. These were cut from 20 gauge aluminum and folded to fit snugly over the frame.
Plans were drawn and the parts cut, mostly with a hand shear. The goal was to cut and fold the pieces as precisely as possible to assure a good fit.
Each of the inside corners was drilled to a quarter inch before cutting to avoid sharp angles that can lead to cracking of the aluminum.
The edges were sanded and/or filed to make sure the dimensions were exact.
Once the pieces were cut, the sides were folded. The folds are important since they provide significant strength and define the fit, so time was spent lining the pieces up to assure the bends were correct.
The Eastwood tool has plates that can be removed for fabricating boxes, which was needed to make the ends folds.
Here is an example of a folded corner with the rounded corner visible. Sharp corners can cause stress cracks.
At this point, the majority of the cutting and bending for the seats is done.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Can’t wait to see the bigger picture of the assembly
Seats, Part X
The aluminum seat section that sets next to the parking brake required special attention. A notch was cut to provide clearance for the brake handle which meant the fold had to be cut out. This obviously weakens it requiring that a reinforcement be added.
An angle was made, ¾ inches on each side, and cut to fit.
The angle are riveted in place. The location of the holes was spaced with a nifty tool we picked up at EAA Air Venture in Oshkosh. All the holes were drilled on the top side but only two on the angle bracket. The remaining holes will be match drilled when it is riveted.
The cushion supports will be riveted to the frame when final assembly is done, after final welding and painting.
The aluminum seat section that sets next to the parking brake required special attention. A notch was cut to provide clearance for the brake handle which meant the fold had to be cut out. This obviously weakens it requiring that a reinforcement be added.
An angle was made, ¾ inches on each side, and cut to fit.
The angle are riveted in place. The location of the holes was spaced with a nifty tool we picked up at EAA Air Venture in Oshkosh. All the holes were drilled on the top side but only two on the angle bracket. The remaining holes will be match drilled when it is riveted.
The cushion supports will be riveted to the frame when final assembly is done, after final welding and painting.
Seats, Part XI
With all the foregoing preparation done, we were finally able to complete the welding of the seat frame, again using the jig to assure good alignment. Even with a jig the welding caused some slight distortion requiring that the forward tubes be reamed again to assure the spring-loaded rods moved easily; a very time-consuming project with a ¾” hand reamer. The frames were than set in place so that the rear blocks could be aligned and installed, using the same procedure as had been used on the front blocks.
The frames were prepped, primed, and painted low gloss black. The aluminum cushion support panels were set in place. Only five rivets on each frame secure them in place.
The holes to support the Jaguar XKE diaphragm were drilled with the holes spaced to assure a bit of tension. The diaphragm was then set in place.
The seat bases were set in the Jag confirming everything aligned properly. This design permits raising or lowering the seat base to two positions. The front and rear can be separately raised or lowered to alter the angle of the seat.
The seat back supports and base frame are now finished and ready for cushions.
With the back supports and bottom seat frames now complete, we can move on to making the cushions. But first I need to learn how to sew.
With all the foregoing preparation done, we were finally able to complete the welding of the seat frame, again using the jig to assure good alignment. Even with a jig the welding caused some slight distortion requiring that the forward tubes be reamed again to assure the spring-loaded rods moved easily; a very time-consuming project with a ¾” hand reamer. The frames were than set in place so that the rear blocks could be aligned and installed, using the same procedure as had been used on the front blocks.
The frames were prepped, primed, and painted low gloss black. The aluminum cushion support panels were set in place. Only five rivets on each frame secure them in place.
The holes to support the Jaguar XKE diaphragm were drilled with the holes spaced to assure a bit of tension. The diaphragm was then set in place.
The seat bases were set in the Jag confirming everything aligned properly. This design permits raising or lowering the seat base to two positions. The front and rear can be separately raised or lowered to alter the angle of the seat.
The seat back supports and base frame are now finished and ready for cushions.
With the back supports and bottom seat frames now complete, we can move on to making the cushions. But first I need to learn how to sew.
As always Chuck, a real work of art .
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Bonnet Set Up, Part I, Lower Mating Surface
More than five years ago work started on the front clip. Fiberglass panels for the box supporting the hinge connections were fabricated in place of aluminum panels glued in place. At that time the wheel openings were evaluated to check fit and tire clearance. Then the bonnet was set aside. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-538593
Our next goal is to fit the bonnet to the point where it is hinged and functional. This will be a big project due in part to the warped and distorted mating surfaces on both sides.
Rather than cutting material with a saw we opted to use 40 grit sandpaper to gradually sand down the gel coat surface to expose at least some fiberglass. The gel coat is very thick in many places. Sandpaper provided a bit more control than attacking it with a saw. It also required many hours of time.
Next the mating surface had to be leveled, starting with the lower surface. This was accomplished by using West Marine epoxy mixed with flocks to create a thick mixture that was applied to the area after placing cardboard “dams” set at the proper height.
The result was a reasonably level surface ready for sanding. Fortunately, the driver side was reasonably level so no “dam” work was needed.
I will post more details on the technique if anyone is interested.
More than five years ago work started on the front clip. Fiberglass panels for the box supporting the hinge connections were fabricated in place of aluminum panels glued in place. At that time the wheel openings were evaluated to check fit and tire clearance. Then the bonnet was set aside. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-538593
Our next goal is to fit the bonnet to the point where it is hinged and functional. This will be a big project due in part to the warped and distorted mating surfaces on both sides.
Rather than cutting material with a saw we opted to use 40 grit sandpaper to gradually sand down the gel coat surface to expose at least some fiberglass. The gel coat is very thick in many places. Sandpaper provided a bit more control than attacking it with a saw. It also required many hours of time.
Next the mating surface had to be leveled, starting with the lower surface. This was accomplished by using West Marine epoxy mixed with flocks to create a thick mixture that was applied to the area after placing cardboard “dams” set at the proper height.
The result was a reasonably level surface ready for sanding. Fortunately, the driver side was reasonably level so no “dam” work was needed.
I will post more details on the technique if anyone is interested.
Bonnet Set Up, Part II, Top Mating Surface
The next project was the top mating surface, both of which were badly distorted. We decided to lower the nose a bit to improve the stance of the Jag, as referenced in previous posts. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-559180 This required reshaping the side mating surfaces by removing about ¼ inch of material from the front, tapered to the rear, which will lower the front of the nose about 1 ½ inches. Forty grit sandpaper was used.
The clip was placed and removed multiple times to confirm the alignment as the sanding progressed.
Here are some more details on the technique. The gelcoat is very thick – too thick to remove it all – but an attempt was made to remove enough to expose at least some fiberglass where the epoxy was to be applied.
Poster board epoxy “dams” were held in place with a few drops of hot glue. The part of the cardboard that contacts the epoxy was covered with shiny packing tape so that it would not stick. The two part “slow” hardening West Marine epoxy was mixed and the flocks added until it was thick but pourable. This was then carefully spread.
After the epoxy flocks mix was in place, a piece of Peal Ply was placed to cover it as it dried which helps assure a smooth surface. Once dry, the poster board dam and Peal Ply were removed.
The surface was thoroughly sanded to its final shape. A long tube and level were used as a guide to assure the surfaces were level and symmetrical. Once the final shape is confirmed, one or two thickness' of fiberglass material will be placed over the surface to add a final bit of strength. Once the bonnet is held in place with the hinges, a bit more adjustment of these mating surfaces will likely be necessary.
The next project was the top mating surface, both of which were badly distorted. We decided to lower the nose a bit to improve the stance of the Jag, as referenced in previous posts. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-559180 This required reshaping the side mating surfaces by removing about ¼ inch of material from the front, tapered to the rear, which will lower the front of the nose about 1 ½ inches. Forty grit sandpaper was used.
The clip was placed and removed multiple times to confirm the alignment as the sanding progressed.
Here are some more details on the technique. The gelcoat is very thick – too thick to remove it all – but an attempt was made to remove enough to expose at least some fiberglass where the epoxy was to be applied.
Poster board epoxy “dams” were held in place with a few drops of hot glue. The part of the cardboard that contacts the epoxy was covered with shiny packing tape so that it would not stick. The two part “slow” hardening West Marine epoxy was mixed and the flocks added until it was thick but pourable. This was then carefully spread.
After the epoxy flocks mix was in place, a piece of Peal Ply was placed to cover it as it dried which helps assure a smooth surface. Once dry, the poster board dam and Peal Ply were removed.
The surface was thoroughly sanded to its final shape. A long tube and level were used as a guide to assure the surfaces were level and symmetrical. Once the final shape is confirmed, one or two thickness' of fiberglass material will be placed over the surface to add a final bit of strength. Once the bonnet is held in place with the hinges, a bit more adjustment of these mating surfaces will likely be necessary.
Bonnet Set Up, Part III, Trimming the Bonnet
The seam between the aft end of the bonnet and the body needs to be straight and even. Two steps were needed. First, the matting surface on the body was sanded down to an even depth, approximately 3/16 inch. There is a lot of material here so removing that amount was not an issue. A Dremel and sanding tool worked well. Numerous measurements were made of the depth to keep it reasonably consistent.
The bonnet was set in place, and variations in the gap up to a quarter inch were noted. A ¼” width blue guide tape was placed. Masking tape was placed adjacent to it, which provided the reference for material removal.
With 40 grit paper on a long sanding board, the edge of the bonnet was smoothed almost even with the edge of the masking tape. This gave a good starting point with more fine tuning to come. With a bit more work the gap was brought down to less than 1/16” maximum variation. Due to fiberglass expanding and contracting, the final gap will likely be set at 1/8”.
With the bonnet close to its final position, the hinges can finally be mounted.
The seam between the aft end of the bonnet and the body needs to be straight and even. Two steps were needed. First, the matting surface on the body was sanded down to an even depth, approximately 3/16 inch. There is a lot of material here so removing that amount was not an issue. A Dremel and sanding tool worked well. Numerous measurements were made of the depth to keep it reasonably consistent.
The bonnet was set in place, and variations in the gap up to a quarter inch were noted. A ¼” width blue guide tape was placed. Masking tape was placed adjacent to it, which provided the reference for material removal.
With 40 grit paper on a long sanding board, the edge of the bonnet was smoothed almost even with the edge of the masking tape. This gave a good starting point with more fine tuning to come. With a bit more work the gap was brought down to less than 1/16” maximum variation. Due to fiberglass expanding and contracting, the final gap will likely be set at 1/8”.
With the bonnet close to its final position, the hinges can finally be mounted.
Bonnet Set Up, Part IV, Front Box Alignment
The panels on the front of the clip are critical because they hold the hinges that carry the weight of the bonnet. We opted for fiberglass rather than aluminum panels. Once all the aluminum trim pieces are in place the difference in materials will not be noticeable. In posts five years ago the method for building the four panels was described. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-539255 Now it is time to install them.
The variations in the bonnet, side to side and front to rear, required a lot of adjustment to keep the panel surfaces as closely aligned as possible. The body is not symmetrical. Hours were spent checking and rechecking dimensions. We used measuring tools, straight edges, string, and levels, marking key points as we massaged the panels into the best compromise positions.
Once the critical adjustments were within a variation of about a quarter inch and locations marked, hot glue was used to apply three dabs on the headlight panels to temporarily hold them in place. A Sharpie was used to mark the locations. Next the panels were removed and 1/8” holes drilled to mark the alignment points knowing the Sharpie marks would fade or disappear when sanded in preparation of gluing the panels in place with epoxy.
Since the front side of the light panels will be visible through the headlight openings and they will not be easy to access after installed, time was spent sanding, priming, and painting them, leaving an inch of exposed surface along the edge for tabing the panels in place with fiberglass. We used Duplicolor aluminum, which is a very good match to natural aluminum. The headlight area will have to be painted again later, but this will provide a good starting point.
With all this preparation done, the panels can be permanently installed.
The panels on the front of the clip are critical because they hold the hinges that carry the weight of the bonnet. We opted for fiberglass rather than aluminum panels. Once all the aluminum trim pieces are in place the difference in materials will not be noticeable. In posts five years ago the method for building the four panels was described. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-539255 Now it is time to install them.
The variations in the bonnet, side to side and front to rear, required a lot of adjustment to keep the panel surfaces as closely aligned as possible. The body is not symmetrical. Hours were spent checking and rechecking dimensions. We used measuring tools, straight edges, string, and levels, marking key points as we massaged the panels into the best compromise positions.
Once the critical adjustments were within a variation of about a quarter inch and locations marked, hot glue was used to apply three dabs on the headlight panels to temporarily hold them in place. A Sharpie was used to mark the locations. Next the panels were removed and 1/8” holes drilled to mark the alignment points knowing the Sharpie marks would fade or disappear when sanded in preparation of gluing the panels in place with epoxy.
Since the front side of the light panels will be visible through the headlight openings and they will not be easy to access after installed, time was spent sanding, priming, and painting them, leaving an inch of exposed surface along the edge for tabing the panels in place with fiberglass. We used Duplicolor aluminum, which is a very good match to natural aluminum. The headlight area will have to be painted again later, but this will provide a good starting point.
With all this preparation done, the panels can be permanently installed.
Bonnet Set Up, Part V, Front Box Installation
Before expoxing the panels in place, short quarter inch square sticks were hot glued to the headlight panels to make aligning the inner panels easier.
The areas where epoxy and fiberglass tabs were to be applied were sanded and the panels set in place. Despite the drilled location marks, several hours were again spent rechecking the alignment. Three small dabs of hot glue were again used to hold the headlight panels in place. Once in place fiberglass tabs were applied to the forward side of the panel, working through the headlight opening. Doing this while lying on the floor proved to be a bit of a challenge. Another Ibuprofen night. As is our practice, Peal Ply was applied to improve the curing process.
Because the seam on the back side will be visible, the two surfaces need to be as square as possible so no tabing was added on the back side. Accordingly, epoxy mixed with flocks was used to fill the gap. (Flocks mixed with epoxy is considered a structural material). With the clip resting upright, this was much easier to apply.
After the headlight panels were securely in place, the inner side panels were installed using both epoxy mixed with flocks and tabbing the inside surfaces. Once all the engine compartment details are in place, these joints will not be visible.
Once the panels were installed measurements were again noted to confirm alignment. I was pleased that the panels were exactly centered with the actual center line, which was determined long ago. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-538593 The real check on the panel alignment will be when the bonnet is in place and the gap between the two sides halves of each hinge are measured, but that will be a while.
With the panels securely in place, the hinges can be placed.
Before expoxing the panels in place, short quarter inch square sticks were hot glued to the headlight panels to make aligning the inner panels easier.
The areas where epoxy and fiberglass tabs were to be applied were sanded and the panels set in place. Despite the drilled location marks, several hours were again spent rechecking the alignment. Three small dabs of hot glue were again used to hold the headlight panels in place. Once in place fiberglass tabs were applied to the forward side of the panel, working through the headlight opening. Doing this while lying on the floor proved to be a bit of a challenge. Another Ibuprofen night. As is our practice, Peal Ply was applied to improve the curing process.
Because the seam on the back side will be visible, the two surfaces need to be as square as possible so no tabing was added on the back side. Accordingly, epoxy mixed with flocks was used to fill the gap. (Flocks mixed with epoxy is considered a structural material). With the clip resting upright, this was much easier to apply.
After the headlight panels were securely in place, the inner side panels were installed using both epoxy mixed with flocks and tabbing the inside surfaces. Once all the engine compartment details are in place, these joints will not be visible.
Once the panels were installed measurements were again noted to confirm alignment. I was pleased that the panels were exactly centered with the actual center line, which was determined long ago. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-538593 The real check on the panel alignment will be when the bonnet is in place and the gap between the two sides halves of each hinge are measured, but that will be a while.
With the panels securely in place, the hinges can be placed.
Bonnet, Part VI, Hinges
The aluminum panel bolted to the chassis which RCR provides to support the radiator and bonnet was replaced long ago with a tube style design to more closely resemble the original. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-557529 It was specifically designed so that the connection point for the hinges would be the same location and height as the RCR design. Accordingly, what is described here would should work with the RCR panel. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-558206
Measurements were made to determine the pivot point with the chassis resting on blocks exactly six inches off the floor. Note that the pivot point will be about 1 ½ inches higher on the bonnet because the front of the bonnet has been lowered.
The ally panels were drilled to match the holes in the hinges, but elongated to provide a means of adjusting up and down. A separate backing plate was made for the forward side of the fiberglass panels.
Next the chassis brackets were fabricated, using two pieces on each side to ‘sandwich’ the chassis mounting point. A 3/8” slot was cut so that the bonnet could be adjusted fore and aft slightly. It is held to the chassis with ¼” bolts. An eighth inch thick washer was placed between the bracket halves.
A 3/8” rod serves as the connection point. Holes were drilled in each end and cotter pins placed. Between the brackets a half inch diameter aluminum tube with a 3/8” I.D. covers the rod. Two spacers, each ¾” long, center the bonnet.
There will be more fine tuning.
The aluminum panel bolted to the chassis which RCR provides to support the radiator and bonnet was replaced long ago with a tube style design to more closely resemble the original. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-557529 It was specifically designed so that the connection point for the hinges would be the same location and height as the RCR design. Accordingly, what is described here would should work with the RCR panel. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chucks-jaguar-d-type-build.52688/post-558206
Measurements were made to determine the pivot point with the chassis resting on blocks exactly six inches off the floor. Note that the pivot point will be about 1 ½ inches higher on the bonnet because the front of the bonnet has been lowered.
The ally panels were drilled to match the holes in the hinges, but elongated to provide a means of adjusting up and down. A separate backing plate was made for the forward side of the fiberglass panels.
Next the chassis brackets were fabricated, using two pieces on each side to ‘sandwich’ the chassis mounting point. A 3/8” slot was cut so that the bonnet could be adjusted fore and aft slightly. It is held to the chassis with ¼” bolts. An eighth inch thick washer was placed between the bracket halves.
A 3/8” rod serves as the connection point. Holes were drilled in each end and cotter pins placed. Between the brackets a half inch diameter aluminum tube with a 3/8” I.D. covers the rod. Two spacers, each ¾” long, center the bonnet.
There will be more fine tuning.
