Alex's SLC build thread

[Alex]

for installing the evaporator, I used the 2 provided brackets, one on the front left and one on the rear right. I could not install the bracket at the rear left due to lack of clearance with the chassis in the middle, so for the rear middle, I put a new insert, same type of insert installation that they have already on the box.

 

[Joel K]

Nice job Alex!

 

[Alex]

I am starting to work on the dash wiring. My car came with the new Koso RX4. I have a couple of questions on the wiring that maybe someone has answers (or if you know a post about wiring the dahs, I couldn't find one):

• where o you connect the light for turn light..... on the dash? from the power cell cable or master cell cable?
• engine light: go to ECU?
• IMMO: go to ECU?
• the neutral, with a graziano, what id the best place ? (shifter or gearbox?)
• Brown-Red RPM wire: i am assuming to the ECU?

 

[Joel K]

Alex, Check out Kurtiss’s post #282 and his link to his wiring document. This is a great reference if you are using the Infinitybox system…

Thread 'Kurtiss' GT-R'

Oct 3, 2017

I have been lurking in the background for a few years watching all the great build threads and trying to decide what car I would like to build. Sure, I’ve looked at the car manufactures like Superformance, CAV, Factory Five, Race Car Replicas, Superlite and many others. In 2016 I discovered the GT-R by Superlite. I felt it was the best of all worlds – the fantastic and timeless look of the GT40 with the updated styling and larger size of the Robertson Racing GT’s.

For the past year I have been watching Allan build his beautiful Chevy powered red GT-R, Dean Lampe and his Coyote engine...

• Kurtiss
• build car coyote gt-r superlite
• Replies: 386
• Forum: GT40 Build Logs

 

[Alex]

thank you Joel, that's my homework for tonight !

 

[Alex]

Some update on trying to fit interior panels, to be able to look at clearance so far with the spider.

I had to trim the dashboard a lot more than on the line for it to fit between the tubes of the front hoop. It could fit without the plenum under as it is seating lower around the hoop, but not as it is.



Trimming of the roof panel. so many places to trim it, not sure what is the right solution, but I trimmed on that yellow line


everything fitting pretty good


Then I dropped the spider on, a lot of trimming need to be done for the coolant lines, electric conduit...



Does anybody have pictures of how much and where they trimmed the spider?

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

Not saying I did everything the best way but maybe it is time to review my car to get ideas for your build. Now that it is getting cooler we will try to make time to pull my car out of storage.

 

[Alex]

Not saying I did everything the best way but maybe it is time to review my car to get ideas for your build. Now that it is getting cooler we will try to make time to pull my car out of storage.

Thanks Kurt,
Do you say that in general or you see something not working?
Yes I definitely need to come check it out!

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

Just to show how I did my cutouts, etc. I do not see anything in particular that is not working out for you, wanting to share options on trimming, etc.

 

[Alex]

Update of the last couple of weeks.
I am trying to fit the spider on the car to check for clearance. I can get it to seat properly at the front, but at the rear it looks like it is seat on the top panel of the tub/roof panel and can't seat all the way down.

this is the gap I have on the rear between the body and the tube. anybody have an idea? I already cut a lot of fiberglass and don't want to cut more before I am sure....

I also worked on the doors, trying to get as much clearance as possible, I left a 1"1/4 all around the frame



Also the side windows looks too big, they are sticking out in the front and bottom when put in place.
Did anybody have to cut the side windows?

 

[Howard Jones]

I added material to the top of the chassis rail to fill the gap in this spot. If you can't weld it then you could use JB Weld to "glue" it on. Then drill and tap through to the chassis to accommodate a screw to hold on the body.

 

[Alex]

thank you for the quick feedback.
My problem is the body doesn't seat on the floor side extension either on the right and left because it is sitting on the roof panel but not on the lower part of the tub like on this picture:

 

[Joel K]

Alex, here are pics of my rough body fitment. Are you saying that once the rear interior panel is installed the body sits up too high to meet with the interior tub?

Here are a few pics of my body with the interior tub screwed into the chassis and rear interior panel placed in the car, this was all cut out by RCR. This should provide a sense for how it should fit. I still have some gaps but those will reduce when I screw the interior panel in. May still need to fine tune and add back some fiberglass on the edges.

 

[Alex]

Yes, exactly. I did the same cut out than you(looks like) but see the bottom of the body is touching the front but not the rear because it is pushed up by the tub

 

[Joel K]

First thing I can think of to check is that the back of the interior tub should mount flat on the chassis without any spacers. I would suspect if the tub is sitting too high then the interior panel that sits on it is lifting the rear of the body up too high.

If the tub is laying flat on the back cross member of the chassis, does the hoop of the rear clam tightly wrap around that rear interior panel?

 

[Joel K]

Also, the cup holders on the spider should not be resting on the rear frame. They should be about .25” behind the rear frame member. Resting them on the frame may stop the body from touching the chassis floor.

 

[Alex]

you are right, looking at picture there is a gap between the tub and the chassis on the back:

my tub is seating ok at the bottom against the floor, but maybe i need to cut it shorter?

 

[Joel K]

It’s possible. I would measure the difference in gap of the body shoulder to the tub, the body bottom to the chassis, and see if that equals to or is close to the gap of the tub on the rear frame rail. If so, the bottom of the tub probably needs trimming.

Here is a pic of my tub attached to the chassis. You can see how flat it is. I would only recommend screwing that in once your body is centered both front-aft and side-to-side.

 

[Joel K]

Keep in mid there could be some warpage at the body rear shoulder so that will settle down once the body sits on the car for a few weeks.

But the tub definitely needs to be flat on the frame rail.

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

Alex,

Check your openings at the floor of the tub. If I remember correctly I had to trim mine at the back to get the tub to sit all the way down. The factory does a rough cut on these and they may need to be trimmed cleanly.