David G 69 Gulf SPF build begins.

[Randy Folsom]

Now that the front of the engine is figured out I will remove the engine from the stand and mount the flywheel and the the bellhousing and zero runout the bellhousing then install the clutch assembly. I want to send the bundle of snakes out for jet hot coating but think I need to test fit it first and make sure they clear the upper crossmember first.

David, did you send the exhaust to Jet Hot. I asked a few different vendors how they coat the inside. The only one that would not tell me was Jet Hot. Claimed it was a trade secret. The others all said they cap the ends and swirl. That is also how Ceracoat recommends. It’s certainly a lot less expensive. I am also looking at Eastwood’s internal coating. They provide a 2’ hose with a 360^ nozzle. Cheers, Randy

 

[Michael]

I had a neat piece of the puzzle show up almost a year to the date of the delivery. And I plan on registering it as a 1969 so I stumbled across this fitting 69 Florida license plate. My chassis number is P1176 . 50 year Anniversary of P1075.

I love the matching “Gulf” guitar David. I’ve seen them on the Safir website and have to admit they’re tempting, but my taste runs more toward acoustic type guitars…

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I love the matching “Gulf” guitar David. I’ve seen them on the Safir website and have to admit they’re tempting, but my taste runs more toward acoustic type guitars…

Safir will have the "GT40" guitars at the GT Reunion.

 

[Robbie W.]

Got my quick Jack's 6K and they work perfect. This is only one click to the first safety lock. Motor is off the motor stand and ready to index the bellhousing. Test fitting the engine tomorrow.



View attachment 136882View attachment 136883View attachment 136884View attachment 136885View attachment 136886

Hello David, I am planning on buying a quick jack for my SPF GT40 and I was wondering if you could tell me the make and size of quick jack you are using? I understand that there are a few sizes available. I am also particularly interested in where you have positioned them under the GT40 so as not to cause any damage to the bodywork or chassis? For example, do you use rubber blocks between the chassis and jack? Any info you can provide will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Robbie.

 

[Darius Rudis]

QuickJack 5000SLX (from 2017). Comperable is https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/5000tlx/

 

[Darius Rudis]

Rubber blocks (comes with kit, but you could buy/add more for larger displacement), is enough to hold the car, placed under the "frame rails"...

 

[David Garton]

Hello David, I am planning on buying a quick jack for my SPF GT40 and I was wondering if you could tell me the make and size of quick jack you are using? I understand that there are a few sizes available. I am also particularly interested in where you have positioned them under the GT40 so as not to cause any damage to the bodywork or chassis? For example, do you use rubber blocks between the chassis and jack? Any info you can provide will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Robbie.

Robbie, my Quick Jack's 6000 and are longer and heavier duty then the 5000's and work great. I bought them on Black Friday sale for under $1500 free shipping. They come with two thickness blocks. I put them forward where the lower control arms meet at the frame and rears end up under the crossmember. Photos of model numbers.

 

[Robbie W.]

Rubber blocks (comes with kit, but you could buy/add more for larger displacement), is enough to hold the car, placed under the "frame rails"... View attachment 140396

Thank you for your reply Darius. The photos are very useful for me to see how it all works and the positioning under the car.
Robbie

 

[Robbie W.]

Robbie, my Quick Jack's 6000 and are longer and heavier duty then the 5000's and work great. I bought them on Black Friday sale for under $1500 free shipping. They come with two thickness blocks. I put them forward where the lower control arms meet at the frame and rears end up under the crossmember. Photos of model numbers.

Thank you for taking the time to reply with all this detail David, exactly the information I require. I am based in the UK so I will search for this model and size to see what price I can buy it here in the UK. Really appreciate your reply.
Robbie.

 

[Michael]

Personally I think the 6000 series QJs are way overkill for use with the 40 only, but I could see going with them if you have other larger vehicles that require them. I have the 5000 series and they’re perfect for the 40, plus they also lift my Nissan Frontier (4700 lbs).

 

[Richard]

These are the replacement tires for the discontinued Avons. This is one rear tire for my extra wide body 1969 MK1. VIN# P1176 View attachment 129802

What size Good years are those?

 

[David Garton]

What size Good years are those?

Richard, fronts are 23x10.5x15 and rears are 27x14x15. I have two sets.

 

[Richard]

Thank you.

 

[David Garton]

Ok back at it. Put the rear chassis pieces back on and test fitted the exhaust and the bundle of snakes from Gelscoe because of the Gurney heads were close to the upper crossmember and definitely going to interfere with the swaybar. So tubes tight and collectors on I slung them and made some clearance. No heat on the tubes just cold weight. Gained good clearance and the rear bracket under the trumpets now. I need to change the swaybar to over the exhaust type?? Has anyone had any luck making the under style work? Engine and Trans are mounted factory height including lower crossmember and lower bellhousing all bolted up . Thank in advance. Pulling bundle of snakes and sending out to Ceracoteinner and outer tubes.

 

[Darius Rudis]

>... I slung them and made some clearance. No heat on the tubes just cold weight.

How much clearance did you need?
I am in similar dilema (interference with Cross-Member)

 

[David Garton]

>... I slung them and made some clearance. No heat on the tubes just cold weight.

How much clearance did you need?
I am in similar dilema (interference with Cross-Member)

View attachment 142411

Darius, As you can see from the pictures I had to leave header flanges at head slightly loose and then I wiggled the collectors on. Once the collectors were in place I strapped the collectors as to pull the same on all tubes and not just one. Tighten the flanges and lifted the collectors until I could bolt the bracket in place for the trumpets to rest on. After that I would say I gained 1 1/2 inches above the crossmember and trans mount. I was even able to bolt the sway bar in but it touched the bottom of the collectors. I will work on that fix next.

 

[David Garton]

Had to put a slight bend in swaybar to go under the exhaust collectors. Turned out to fit great under collectors and just above the Trans mount castings.

 

[Adrian Starling]

Had to put a slight bend in swaybar to go under the exhaust collectors. Turned out to fit great under collectors and just above the Trans mount castings.

Well done Dave, good result!

 

[David Garton]

Finally got a day to get some work done. Fuel pump bracket threaded inserts installed. Detail work on Stewart Warner pumps and needed to wait for paint to dry so I decided to install starter and kill switch. Once I made battery cables and figured out starter signal wire, AC signal wire and routed harness down right side and acrossed to left side to the alternator. Then I was able to crank engine and get distributor and ignition wires on top dead center.Even had roundel numbers lit up . Next is turkey tray and carbs and linkage. Then the bundle of snakes i had ceramic coated in bronze.

 

[David Garton]

Fuel pumps detailed and mounted. Turkey tray , carburators and linkages all installed as well as small cap distributor installed at top dead center with ignition wires installed with firing order. Next is to make the special throttle cable bracket and then my ceramic coated in bronze bundle of snakes. Going to bend and flare my own steel fuel lines. Getting closer to breathing fire out of the headers.