LBC Build Log - Apex

LBCportagee · Sep 21, 2015

Nothing to add really.

Used layout fluid to mark throttle blade. I left only a small edge to maintain gaps within throttle body. This makes it easier to see and not go too far. Also removed valve cover bosses for coil pack brackets. I'm remotely mounting the coil packs which should help if I ever need to get to them (from the bottom). I'm going to clean these up and hydro dip em (just for fun).

This was still in process
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/APEX/20150919_182417.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/APEX/20150919_182417.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150919_182417.jpg"/></a>

To be filled with JB then dipped.
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/APEX/20150919_182438.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/APEX/20150919_182438.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150919_182438.jpg"/></a>

jhut03 · Sep 21, 2015

What hydro dip kit do you have? Been thinking about getting some to play with.

LBCportagee · Sep 23, 2015

jhut03 said:
What hydro dip kit do you have? Been thinking about getting some to play with.

I ended up buying from Kansas Hydrographics but almost bought from liquid concepts. I wanted hydrovator which prompted the decision and since I have no experience I figured it wouldn't matter much. My concern is my base (engine enamel) paint but will give it a shot. Will be black weave over graphite.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPl5VtzvjUQ

LBCportagee · Oct 4, 2015

My first attempt at dipping and so I guess I'm happy. Not sure how to get around some of the issues with the difficult areas. Air bubbles in the grooves running down the valve covers caused a couple places to not print...but you won't be able to see really. These just need to be clear coated now.

Also did my trunion upgrade on my rocker arms. Don't have a press which would have made this easier but I made due with the vise. The BTR snap rings are a pain in the ass.

Scott R. · Oct 5, 2015

Keith1 said:
I understood that it was the whole intake track from trumpet to chamber but you are probably correct. Here's an interesting piece that seems to back up that premise, however, if it's good for the head and intake manifold/port then I would assume the same philosophy should logically apply to the part of the intake trumpet below the injector nozzle.

Sorry if it clogs up your log - if it does, let me know and I'll delete it..

 Engine Intake Porting
Know the facts before you modify your engine.

Smooth porting of the intake tract, in nearly every instance (save a few engines designed to run at full throttle all the time), COSTS HORSEPOWER. That's right.. that nice mirror finish that makes those ports look so sexy, is in most cases causing you to lose power, and in more extreme cases, make an engine non-streetable. Lets look at what scientific research has to say about the mechanics of engine breathing and power production.

Atomization and Vaporization
Before gasoline can be burned, it must be vaporized. Vaporization is the process of a liquid changing to a gas state, and this change only occurs once the liquid has exceeded it's boiling point.

In the case of water, it boils at 212F when at sea level. At a lower atmospheric pressure, it boils at a lower temperature. Thus, the lower the pressure within the intake tract at the point of fuel introduction, combined with an acceptable air stream temperature, the better the vaporization of the fuel, and efficiency of the burn.

In most passenger car engines, heat is applied to the intake manifold to raise the air stream temperature for better vaporization. However, this does cost some top-end power, as the higher temperature mixture, also has a lower density (and thus, less fuel/oxygen). It's a trade-off between street drive-ability and maximum power. The power loss in passenger engines is considered acceptable due to the smoother running of the engine, at part throttle. In a true race engine, every measure is taken to remove heat from the intake tract, because a cooler, more dense mixture means more horsepower, at the expense of low-end power and drive-ability.

There are number of factors that can cause poor fuel vaporization;

Intake tract pressure too high (raises boiling point of the fuel)
Air stream temperature too low (below the boiling point of fuel)
Air stream velocity too slow (fuel will drop out of the stream)
Any of these will reduce power output, drive-ability (throttle response), and efficiency (mileage).

Mixture Speed and Turbulence
Let's focus on the mixture velocity (speed) and turbulence, as these are directly affected by the design and modification of the cylinder head's intake ports.

The 'art' of cylinder head port design, is often considered a black art, and as such, many myths exist regarding cylinder head design and porting. One of the most common is that polishing the ports is the trick to make a head work. In reality, NOTHING is further from the truth. A polish does nothing to increase the power of an engine, and in fact, can reduce power output.

This can be proven only on a dyno. A test conducted by engine builder David Ray, using two cylinder heads, proved this point. Head #1 was highly worked over, and sported a very nice looking set of polished ports. Head #2 was worked over only slightly in the valve bowl area, but flowed the same amount of air as Head #1 on the flow bench. When put together, and run on the dyno, the results where amazing. The rough port Head #2, produced it's best horsepower with a secondary barrel main jet two sizes smaller than that required for maximum horsepower using Head #1. The engine also produced more horsepower on less fuel!

What is happening in the above case? The engine is suffering from fuel dropout.

Fuel Dropout
Fuel dropout is the loss of fuel from the air stream, due to either condensation (temperature drops below the boiling point), or loss of speed and turbulence. In both cases, droplets of fuel will literally 'fall' out of the air stream onto the walls and floor of your intake port. If your head and manifold retain enough heat, it will once again boil and attempt to re-enter the air stream.

This is basically a case of poor vaporization (the three primary causes of which we looked at, above). Poor vaporization means less power output per once of fuel consumed (not necessarily burned, read on to find out how this happens).

Why a polished port, costs you power
There are a number of reasons a nice looking polished port can make your engine produce less horsepower than it did in stock form, but here are the two that are most relevant to this discussion.

Loss of velocity. Over-working the port and making it too large is not a good thing.
Fuel will not properly puddle on intake walls or floor.
In both cases, the end result is the same. Fuel dropout causes the collection of liquid fuel on the walls/floor of the intake tract, where it will now easily flow down the port, directly into the cylinder as a liquid, which the engine will not be able to properly burn, causing lost power, wasted gas, and more emissions (that can clog your catalytic converter, causing even more power to be lost).

So why does a rough port work better? It's really very simple. As fuel drops out of the air stream, it collects on the walls and floor of the intake port, and puddles. However, since the port is not smooth, the gas is far less likely to flow into the cylinder as a liquid, before it can be re-vaporized by heat in the head/intake, or be picked up by the turbulent air within the port.

So, as I'm sure you can now see, even though it 'seems' like a polished port will get you that power you so badly want, in nearly every case, it's all show, and no go.

Just wanted to pop in on this. I read the article until it confirmed why they were having the comments of fuel drop out and such. It is a problem that can occur with a carburetor, not nearly as much issue with port fuel injection. Only air is traveling through the intake until the fuel is shot in under pressure (to atomize itself) right at the port pocket. In other words, air flow has nothing to do with amount of fuel injected into the motor (mechanically anyways), yet a carb has to draw the fuel out of the carb and carry it alot further under the direct mechanical relation to airflow.
For the airflow itself, having a rough surface creates the same effect that a golf ball has. The little pockets of air actually increase its aerodynamics due to the passing air has less surface contact and friction.
I never have the patience to polish heads out to a perfect shine, so I finish in a sand roll, but for different reasons than were in the article. I would be very curious to see the same tests done with a fuel injected motor.

LBCportagee · Oct 10, 2015

I'm trying to work on my engine build so by the time I receive my kit and eclipse I can focus on those areas. I'm trying to plan as best I can since there are no examples to go by and I don't want to make costly mistakes/assumptions. I have some questions out to fran about the necessity of relocating the alternator (like do I need to) and I may be attempting a custom bracket to low mount it on passenger side in place of AC unit. I know the other options but I have a corvette alternator and don't want to replace with cts.

I was also starting to consider the coolant system and I'm pretty sure I have my hands around the expansion tank, overflow, vent lines etc. but it struck me again about the rear not opening. Specifically the radiator cap on the expansion tank has to be the highest point in the system e.g. above heads/vent lines. As an example expansion tank from an SLC you can see this is the highest point of anything in the engine bay. Easy enough to fill it with the clam open. Now with a roof about 6 inches above this and everything in the way below it...Suggestions? How do you check coolant levels all the way up there...the temperature guage??:thumbsdown:

rmartin · Oct 13, 2015

It's just a thought, but you can always graft in a fuel door from an existing car, possibly one with a cable or electric release. Ones that are sheetmetal can be reshaped or you can make the door out of the fiberglass that you remove to make the opening. Use the same adhesive that you are bonding the glass panels of the kit on with and blend it in.

rmartin · Oct 13, 2015

It is basically the same thing Porsche used for the oil tank on 72 911's and the fuel door on all 911's.

LBCportagee · Oct 13, 2015

Ya, I was kind of already considering doing that with the oil cap (and since it likely gets changed more not sure which gets the nod even though oil is likely easier to change then coolant). I'm not sure how it would look with two caps on one side back there.

Fran does the add on fuel tank have a provision for a filler neck already fixed? I'm just wondering if its setup for Passenger or driver side if it does?? I may need to move it to driver side since both the oil fill and expansion tank should be passenger side.

Is it possible to add a sealed cap elsewhere in the cooling circuit like on top radiator that's not allowed to draw air but could be used to fill? Or will this just introduce air once its opened to fill or not allow you to top off fluid since its not highest point anyway? aka bad idea.

Another option I was thinking about was adding something like the SLC rear window vents. If you could make those "easily" removable you could get in to top stuff off. Problem is the APEX rear does not lend itself to this feature.

D07E42A7-7B83-46D2-9C61-883EFD5FAFB4-12077-000006C51DA266FA_zps90d806ba.jpg

LBCportagee · Oct 13, 2015

This is however more realistic and has two quick releases. The rear cross support would prohibit you from dropping this down similarly though. I still don't want to cut apart my body.

LBCportagee · Oct 15, 2015

Had to use a flat bed to get it off....but it's here!! I used Stewart and everything arrived in good shape. Now I need an eclipse LOL.
I'm not pulling stuff out of the pallet for now so this is going to be the extent of the pictures for the time being. I'm moving this to another location eventually. Maybe some pics of addon stuff if I can easily pull it out.

There was an GTR on board behind my car...going to Oregon!!
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/APEX/20151015_102011.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/APEX/20151015_102011.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20151015_102011.jpg"/></a>

Scott R. · Oct 15, 2015

Congrats on the arrival!

I will have to find out who in Oregon is getting that GTR and take a look at it. I am already looking at what my next project may be. Haha

LBCportagee · Oct 15, 2015

Scott R. said:
Congrats on the arrival!

I will have to find out who in Oregon is getting that GTR and take a look at it. I am already looking at what my next project may be. Haha

Good luck...the driver said it was in the middle of BFE...haha

There were also two factory five mk4 in there...meh

1cobra2 · Oct 16, 2015

That would be me

LBCportagee · Oct 16, 2015

1cobra2 said:
That would be me

Perhaps BFE was not fair...love the pics of your town

Congrats, and be sure to post some pics!!

Scott R. · Oct 16, 2015

Nope, bfe isn't far off with Sisters Oregon. Haha.

Congrats to both of you!

LBCportagee · Oct 16, 2015

And now I have an eclipse too. This car is fun (gst). Anybody want a 4G63?

Let the fun begin...ah damn, I need some instructions. lol.

inside shots only
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg"/></a>
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LBCportagee · Oct 17, 2015

And now I have an eclipse too. This car is pretty fun (gst). Anybody want a 4G63?

inside shots only
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo FB95IMG951443148540406.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s24.photobucket.com/user/LBCportagee/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148551142.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/LBCportagee/Mobile%20Uploads/FB95IMG951443148551142.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo FB95IMG951443148551142.jpg"/></a>

LBCportagee · Oct 17, 2015

Here are some diagrams and instructions that might be helpful

glennl · Oct 19, 2015

Thanks for the diagrams.

LBCportagee · Oct 19, 2015

glennl said:
Thanks for the diagrams.

No problem, and if you're looking for something in particular that I might not have posted let me know, I'll see if I can find it. There are a bunch of electrical diagrams etc.

LBC Build Log - Apex

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