Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

[Devin]

Getting the chassis into one uniform color has mentally made this project progress into a new chapter. That being said, I unfortunately had a minor setback (albeit an easier one to overcome) while bolting up the front suspension this week. Normally everything in the plans and design wouldn’t be an issue with the upper coil over shock mount but since I am using the Stance Parts air cups, there was an interference issue with the upper A arm at full shock extension and with the alignment spacers installed.

I know the RCR builds are having the problem with the air cup interference and the tub side wall…AP builds face the opposite. For those that are scratch building using the C5/C6 suspension design (and air cups) I would suggest making a shorter upper shock mount that draws it closer to the tub wall and centered on the A arm mounts. The rewelding wasn’t easy nor pretty but it is complete and best positioned now. The nice thing too is that making the stance as low as possible will actually add to making sure there is added clearance from the upper arm at full cup inflation.

 

[Neil]

Getting the chassis into one uniform color has mentally made this project progress into a new chapter. That being said, I unfortunately had a minor setback (albeit an easier one to overcome) while bolting up the front suspension this week. Normally everything in the plans and design wouldn’t be an issue with the upper coil over shock mount but since I am using the Stance Parts air cups, there was an interference issue with the upper A arm at full shock extension and with the alignment spacers installed.
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I know the RCR builds are having the problem with the air cup interference and the tub side wall…AP builds face the opposite. For those that are scratch building using the C5/C6 suspension design (and air cups) I would suggest making a shorter upper shock mount that draws it closer to the tub wall and centered on the A arm mounts. The rewelding wasn’t easy nor pretty but it is complete and best positioned now. The nice thing too is that making the stance as low as possible will actually add to making sure there is added clearance from the upper arm at full cup inflation.
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You might consider swapping that AN-365 nut for a thinner AN-364 to get a bit more clearance for the top shock mount. It is in shear.

 

[Devin]

You might consider swapping that AN-365 nut for a thinner AN-364 to get a bit more clearance for the top shock mount. It is in shear.

Neil, it might be the camera angle. The top bolt & nut have complete engagement of threads and clearance if I understand your concern.

 

[Neil]

Neil, it might be the camera angle. The top bolt & nut have complete engagement of threads and clearance if I understand your concern.
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Yes, that camera angle gives a different picture of the situation. Unfortunately it reveals another thing that you may or may not wish to address. The rule in race cars and airplanes is to never place a radial load on the threads of a fastener. Under stress the threads will distort and the hole it is in will get chewed out. AN/NAS/MS bolts are made with a "grip length" to match your requirements. That is why they are threaded only a short distance from the end. Aircraft Spruce is a source for these types of fasteners.

 

[Devin]

Front and rear Wilwood C5 brakes (SLC56 and DPC56) with work on the emergency parking brake utilizing a universal cable set, custom ordered Amazon spring and custom hand-made pull adapter utilizing the rest of the stock C5 hardware.

 

[Devin]

Facet fuel pumps, fabricated & installed bulkhead mount, and figured out which AN fittings to order and make it all work in the confined space. Ordered the fuel filter/ pressure regulator and spend the rest of my time figuring out how to mount all the required equipment for the air system into the drivers side rear pod. After testing and fixing some small air leaks, the StanceParts air cup system works as advertised raising the ride height about 1.5” (front & rear). Contemplating making the air system also available to use for tire inflation in event of a roadside emergency.

 

[Devin]

More progress on plumbing the brakes & fuel systems. Also received my order of Image Wheels in 17x9” and 17x11”. Am running 315/35R17s in the rear & 245/45R17s up front.

 

[Brian Kissel]

Devin, are those C5 uprights that you are using ?

Regards Brian

 

[Devin]

Devin, are those C5 uprights that you are using ?

Regards Brian

Yes…front and rear. Thus the reason for 17’s, I would have preferred 15s for original look but brake and tire choices plus the added expense and time to make lowered spindles and everything necessary to make it all work were more than I wanted to deal with. LOL I’ve had way too many challenges and was hoping for less with the C5 stock’ish set up.

 

[Brian Kissel]

Nice. Unfortunately, I’ll be running 17” on my Lola as . Mainly due to tire availability and brake size.
Keep up the good work and please continue posting updates.

Regards Brian

 

[Kevin B]

Very impressive build!

 

[Adrian Starling]

Some more finishing work to do but happy with the progress and a model for the passenger side. Looks like I need to raise the bottom cut of the dash about an inch also.
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Hi Devin, great work and you have inspired me to do the same on my build! Please can I ask if you have drawings of the driver/ passenger panels that you can share and what are the large and small hole diameters? Many thanks, Adrian

 

[Kevin B]

I'm looking forward to knowing how the Aramid honeycomb panel has worked out with respect to heat and noise.

 

[Devin]

Hi Devin, great work and you have inspired me to do the same on my build! Please can I ask if you have drawings of the driver/ passenger panels that you can share and what are the large and small hole diameters? Many thanks, Adrian

Adrian, the panels are approximately 4.5” (inside face) with a single 76mm hole centered 2.5” above the base (1” of metal below hole) then a 63 degree bend to mimic the dash profile to a 6” wide base facing the inside door panel. The two smaller holes are 30mm with about 3/4” of metal below holes and a 90mm hole above them centered approximately at 4.25” above the base. I based all of these on about 3-4 pics of original monocoques that had dual holes and some had single small holes. The spacing and positioning was mocked up on paper and cardboard and slightly adjusted to get the right look with my dash in place before converting to metal. The size of the holes were ones I had in my hydraulic punch kit and debated to put the effort into dimpling the holes but decided against that since these worked out nicely enough and were stiff enough without worry of it deflecting or getting bent in the future.

 

[Devin]

I'm looking forward to knowing how the Aramid honeycomb panel has worked out with respect to heat and noise.

Me too. It shouldn’t be too long before the motor goes back in and I’ll have to see what will need to be done to cut a relief and fab for the water pump hump. I estimate it to be about the size of a large coffee cup but will see soon enough.

I’m contemplating carburetor options now and looking like a Holley 650 is what might be the logical choice for a 347 stroker?

 

[Randy V]

That 650 Holley will give you great throttle response and docile driving characteristics..

 

[Neil]

Me too. It shouldn’t be too long before the motor goes back in and I’ll have to see what will need to be done to cut a relief and fab for the water pump hump. I estimate it to be about the size of a large coffee cup but will see soon enough.

I’m contemplating carburetor options now and looking like a Holley 650 is what might be the logical choice for a 347 stroker?

A 650 CFM Holley is not a bad choice. A more modern upgraded version is a Proform 650 black series. I run a Proform 850 on my black Mirage. It was an out- of- the- box bolt- on installation.

 

[Brian Kissel]

Without all information about your engine, a generic answer is useless. I would contact your engine builder for his recommendation. If this is a self built 347, there’s information that needs to be figured in. BUT, that being said a properly built 650 would give you excellent throttle response. Don’t cheap out in this get a quality built carb and 99% of the time it will be worry free. It isn’t just another part, it’s what will bring your baby to life. Anyone can throw a carb on a have it run quite well, but read your spark plugs. They will tell you a lot.

Regards Brian

 

[Adrian Starling]

Adrian, the panels are approximately 4.5” (inside face) with a single 76mm hole centered 2.5” above the base (1” of metal below hole) then a 63 degree bend to mimic the dash profile to a 6” wide base facing the inside door panel. The two smaller holes are 30mm with about 3/4” of metal below holes and a 90mm hole above them centered approximately at 4.25” above the base. I based all of these on about 3-4 pics of original monocoques that had dual holes and some had single small holes. The spacing and positioning was mocked up on paper and cardboard and slightly adjusted to get the right look with my dash in place before converting to metal. The size of the holes were ones I had in my hydraulic punch kit and debated to put the effort into dimpling the holes but decided against that since these worked out nicely enough and were stiff enough without worry of it deflecting or getting bent in the future.

Great Devin, that is really good information and dimensions, which I will make up. Thank you so much, Adrian

 

[Devin]

A few milestones this week on the GT. 1) the final wheels and tires are mounted & balanced 2) the emergency/parking brake is functionally connected and complete 3) the suspension is complete including the air cup lift system (just need permanent electric) and aligned for final bodywork 4) the chassis is a roller and has left the shop for the first time! Next is making the final connections for the brake reservoirs and bleeding the brakes.