David's Monocoque Build

[David mono]

I have been asked how I go about making the lightening holes, so I will show how I do it with out dies.

Simple tools needed ( Tools1 ),MDF the size you want with radius ( MDF-Radius2 ),Top Plate to clamp it all together ( TopPlate3 ), Hard wood to tap metal down all around hole ( Tap-Down4 ), I tap on the side of a length of pipe to bring down the metal and snug it up to the side ( Tap-DownFinish5 ), Top side of hole ( TopSide6 ), and a side view, not my normal finish work this was just quick to show how I go about it for now.

 

[Ryan L]

Very nicely executed Dave. Looks very nice to me. I'm sure we are our own worst critics.

Are you using anything special to radius your MDF template?

At some point when I was drawing the chassis up in CAD I started to realize that most of the holes were of a similar/common size. When you see it done like this you realize that it was probably due to the availability of common tooling. Either hole saws or press punches that would allow holes to be knocked out of the sheets.

Regards Ryan

 

[David mono]

Thanks Ryan, I use sand paper to radius the MDF or a file at 45 and finish with 150 grit.

The example was made with 20ga, I'd only use MDF for up to 18ga then go to a steel or aluminum for forming thicker steel.

 

[Ryan L]

David, have you seen the method that Ron Covel uses for setting up the bevels on the edges of his hammer forms? He just sands them in as you describe. Could be handy for some of the other details in the build.

Ryan

 

[David mono]

The sanding dust gets everywhere and is very fine so be sure to wear a good mask, I do all the wood work outside but the dust still makes it's way inside even with a fan blowing out.

For a large amount of material to be removed I use the 4 1/2 grinder with a sanding disk it hogs out the MDF very fast with a large dust cloud.

 

[Ryan L]

good tips David,

PS, I included that Ron Covell video as the method he explains works for instances where you have to vary the radius between two different profiles or transitions. This is something that you can't easily do if using a round over bit in a router.

Ryan

 

[David mono]

Panel-Fuel-Tank-Inner.

 

[David mono]

2230 Reinforcing Rib-Fuel Tank.

 

[David mono]

2230 Reinforcing Rib-Fuel Tank, two halves spot welded together with my small spot welder with minimal spots until I get a bigger and badder machine.

 

[frank beuker]

Motor mount part , this time it's a prototype along with a few final parts lossely located.

David what is the thickness of the steel u used ?

 

[David mono]

David what is the thickness of the steel u used ?

I used 16 gauge.

 

[frank beuker]

I used 16 gauge.

Thanks

 

[Brian Coombs]

I used 16 gauge.

Hi David, that does seem quite thick, most panels were 18swg, or 20swg from memory.

 

[David mono]

Hi David, that does seem quite thick, most panels were 18swg, or 20swg from memory.

The blueprint calls for 16 gauge.

 

[David mono]

Front and rear latch base patterns.

I went with a 1.5% oversize to account for shrinkage.

 

[David mono]

Dash top made to FAV blueprints.

 

[Ole Nylende]

I think you by some mistake made it mirrored (?)

 

[David mono]

I think you by some mistake made it mirrored (?)

No it is LHD.

 

[Ryan L]

So you are building the car so the driver sits on the port side?

The forward flange gets turned upwards.
In the photo you posted what we are seeing would be the top of the panel?
Is that correct?

I had assumed you were building RHD with the driver on the Starboard side of the car.

 

[David mono]

Yes I am building a left hand drive.
The forward flange is turned upwards.
Yes that photo is the top of the panel.

So you are building the car so the driver sits on the port side?

The forward flange gets turned upwards.
In the photo you posted what we are seeing would be the top of the panel?
Is that correct?

I had assumed you were building RHD with the driver on the Starboard side of the car.