There’s a lot of build questions and answers and opinions, but I’ve never seen a good review of the driving experience of the SL-C. I had a brief drive in one that was powered by the LT4, but it was on a short street road so hard to make any real comparisons. It was tight like being in a Radical however, the steering is not near as twitchy and precise as the Radical and Fran explained the reason with the slow rack. I’m just wondering everyone’s experience comparing to other cars such as 05/06 FGT or 911s or any such comparison. I’d love to hear a review of the experience inside the SLC from people who have had a lot of seat time. We call it a supercar, but I’d like someone to compare it to a 430 or 458 or a Carrera GT or Ford GT, or any such car. Thanks.
SL-C Driving Experience
- Thread starter nautoncall
- Start date
Yea I’ve watched about every YouTube video. Just was hoping someone with other super car/exotic car experiences would chime in.
Perhaps Alex will see this and chime in.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Superlite Cars wins NASA National Championship in dominating fashion
“I could put the car anywhere”, said Ryan Ellis (Ashburn, VA), driver of the 2011 Superlite Coupe in a post-race interview, after decisively winning the Super Unlimited class in the 2011 National Auto Sports Association (NASA) National Championship race on Saturday 9/10/11.
Which was a good thing, as the track was treacherous for the Super Unlimited class race held at the fabled Mid Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. Damp conditions-- and later pouring rain—roiled the track surface during the event, a situation made worse by the slick tires that shod almost all the cars on track.
the most important question is what exactly are you looking for? do you want to see how it compares in comfort? performance? to a super car? do you want the perspective of a street driven car or how it does on a race track?, you can find more detailed comments from Ryan Ellis on the internet regarding his racing experience on the SLC.
Cam drove the SLC from Denver to West Texas this summer, he has documented the most detailed driving experiences of a street driven SLC. Howard Jones has a lot of experience for a track only car that he takes to COTA often. Of course the comfort and street drivability depends greatly on the quality of the build, such as sound and heat insulation, interior details and so on.
I hope this is helpful.
Hector
“I could put the car anywhere”, said Ryan Ellis (Ashburn, VA), driver of the 2011 Superlite Coupe in a post-race interview, after decisively winning the Super Unlimited class in the 2011 National Auto Sports Association (NASA) National Championship race on Saturday 9/10/11.
Which was a good thing, as the track was treacherous for the Super Unlimited class race held at the fabled Mid Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. Damp conditions-- and later pouring rain—roiled the track surface during the event, a situation made worse by the slick tires that shod almost all the cars on track.
the most important question is what exactly are you looking for? do you want to see how it compares in comfort? performance? to a super car? do you want the perspective of a street driven car or how it does on a race track?, you can find more detailed comments from Ryan Ellis on the internet regarding his racing experience on the SLC.
Cam drove the SLC from Denver to West Texas this summer, he has documented the most detailed driving experiences of a street driven SLC. Howard Jones has a lot of experience for a track only car that he takes to COTA often. Of course the comfort and street drivability depends greatly on the quality of the build, such as sound and heat insulation, interior details and so on.
I hope this is helpful.
Hector
Is that the yellow LT5?? Yeah, that would be great comparing it to his 911. I drove a 911 turbo before not any kind of GT2/GT3 and it was just almost too smooth. I just didn’t connect with the car. know there are Porsche fanatics that say they’re the best driving cars ever.
And I know all the racing was done in 2011 and that’s been 13 years ago. I have a 2009 Radical SR3and even though the car has not changed much is significantly better today than it was back then. I know that’s not an apples to apples comparison. I would’ve have loved to see some of the superlites with a smarty cam and transposed gauges. I don’t see any videos out there like that.
And I know all the racing was done in 2011 and that’s been 13 years ago. I have a 2009 Radical SR3and even though the car has not changed much is significantly better today than it was back then. I know that’s not an apples to apples comparison. I would’ve have loved to see some of the superlites with a smarty cam and transposed gauges. I don’t see any videos out there like that.
Much of your driving experience is going to be dictated by your ability to set up a chassis, your suspension part selections, tire aspect ratio, power, insulation decisions, on and on. The result will be as individual as you are. Any "production" Supercar has a fleet of engineers working out every performance, function and drivability detail and within reason, everyone of them (within brand, model) gives the same driving experience.
Superlite provide you a good set of bones to start work with, how good are you at engineering and development is the difference between a rolling pile of components and a well developed Supercar experience. The latter takes serious dedication to achieve.
If the phrase "Built not Bought" has meaning to you, then you are a prospective member of a small association of people.
Superlite provide you a good set of bones to start work with, how good are you at engineering and development is the difference between a rolling pile of components and a well developed Supercar experience. The latter takes serious dedication to achieve.
If the phrase "Built not Bought" has meaning to you, then you are a prospective member of a small association of people.
could not have said it better Mesa, that is my license plate cover "built not bought"
I'm with Mesa. It's all about how you set yours up. Personally mine is setup hard as a rock and marginal height for the street. It's not the least bit twitchy (when it's right). Mine is used mainly for Open Road Racing where speeds are 130+ for 20-28 minutes at a time. With the downforce it needs to be stiff and even then it can take out every road reflector in sight.
If you want a good car for street speeds, you should consider electric power steering and 1) a lot less toe (front and back); 2) less camber; 3) reasonable ride height and 4) softer springs. IMHO, I don't need power steering (even for a daily driver) - but a LOT of folks seem to prefer it.
My car is also loud (no sound deadening, partial windows, and only enough muffler to say it has a muffler. Others I've ridden in have been a lot more pleasant!
I've had other "performance cars" from a Viper at one extreme to a Lotus at the other. The SLC is more at the Viper end of the spectrum. It's got a long enough wheel base that it's never going to be a killer parking lot autocross car. But it can be rock solid at highway and typical track speeds. Of coarse being mid-engine steering with the throttle (easy in the Viper) is not for the faint of heart. On the other end, the Lotus is great at parking lot speed and will wear you out at high speed just keeping the back behind the front. If that is what you are looking for... know that it would be a challenge to get the SLC to that point.
If you want a good car for street speeds, you should consider electric power steering and 1) a lot less toe (front and back); 2) less camber; 3) reasonable ride height and 4) softer springs. IMHO, I don't need power steering (even for a daily driver) - but a LOT of folks seem to prefer it.
My car is also loud (no sound deadening, partial windows, and only enough muffler to say it has a muffler. Others I've ridden in have been a lot more pleasant!
I've had other "performance cars" from a Viper at one extreme to a Lotus at the other. The SLC is more at the Viper end of the spectrum. It's got a long enough wheel base that it's never going to be a killer parking lot autocross car. But it can be rock solid at highway and typical track speeds. Of coarse being mid-engine steering with the throttle (easy in the Viper) is not for the faint of heart. On the other end, the Lotus is great at parking lot speed and will wear you out at high speed just keeping the back behind the front. If that is what you are looking for... know that it would be a challenge to get the SLC to that point.
Neil
Supporter
"Mine is used mainly for Open Road Racing...
"Do you know Rex Svoboda from MT who runs a McLaren M6GT replica in open- road racing?
Joel K
Supporter
Frank, what toe and camber settings would you recommend for the street?
Howard Jones
Supporter
I've had this in the download file for some time. It was a lot of help at the beginning. Read it carefully and compare things like soft bushing material instead of solid rod ends. Long wheelbases like an SLC compared to a short English sport car like an MG. Absolutely optimum setup devoted to the fastest possible lap time versus a very fast streetcar (but NOT a race-only car).
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
grassrootsmotorsports.com
suspensionsecrets.co.uk
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
What is Camber, caster and toe? | Handling basics
As the three most important alignment parameters, it's vital to understand what camber, caster and toe is, as well as how it can affect performance.
grassrootsmotorsports.com
Toe - How to Adjust and Tune - Suspension Secrets
How to measure, adjust and alter toe to suit the driver and the style of circuit. The different effects of toe is separated into
suspensionsecrets.co.uk
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
Last edited:
Thank you Howard. Always superb information. The street setup recommendation is exactly what I was looking for .I've had this in the download file for some time. It was a lot of help at the beginning. Read it carefully and compare things like soft bushing material instead of solid rod ends. Long wheelbases like an SLC compared to a short English sport car like an MG. Absolutely optimum setup devoted to the fastest possible lap time versus a very fast streetcar (but NOT a race-only car).
My current setup for my track car is: COTA setup 145 -150 MPH on straights and about 2:35-37 lap times
Ride height F about 3.25 inches R 4 inches both measured in line with the axles on the closest point on the adjacent chassis tubing bottom.
The rear wing set to 8 degrees angle of attack.
springs F 800 R 950
Shocks are the QA-1 standard as supplied by RCR. They are maxed out at the rear on rebound and compression and nearly maxed out at the front. The rear has one click left and the fronts have 3 clicks left on both R and C.
front camber -2.5 degrees
front caster 6 degrees
front toe 1/16 inch as measured at the wheel rim on each side for a total toe in of 1/8 inch.
rear camber -2 degrees
rear caster none
rear toe as close to none as possible with a bias towards about 1/32 on each side for a total of 1/16 inch measured at the wheel rim. This is the limit of my string alignment method.
Tires: all my previous data was gathered on used R7 Hoosiers. I now have a new set of TOYO RR's on the car. F 295/30/18 R 345/30/19
Pressures after hot and stabilized 28 all around.
My suggestions for a street car SLC.
Set ride height to F4 and R 4.5
F600 R 750 springs to start with with no angle of attack on the rear wing
set shocks to the middle of the range and go from there
camber F -.33 to.5 R -.25
caster 6 degrees F rear none
toe F good roads .-25 total, bad roads more towards -3/16 total, rear still try for no toe in but under any condition no (NONE!) toe out using my same method.
tire pressure, try 28 -30 once the tires are warm
That's the best I have on this. The biggest difference for street cars from car to car will be tire selection, your weather conditions, and street pavement conditions. As well as your driving "style"
What is Camber, caster and toe? | Handling basics
As the three most important alignment parameters, it's vital to understand what camber, caster and toe is, as well as how it can affect performance.
Toe - How to Adjust and Tune - Suspension Secrets
How to measure, adjust and alter toe to suit the driver and the style of circuit. The different effects of toe is separated into
And this guy has been helpful. He has a few different videos on different subjects, It all sounds right to me.
Here's how I aline my car. pretty much the same stuff but made to bolt onto the car.
Hector
Nope. Don't think he's been running BBORR.
BTW, Great info from Howard above. Guys don't be afraid to do your own alignment. It's not rocket science. Just takes care and patience.
Some of the settings are personal preference within reason (caster and toe), so don't hesitate to change.
I run a bit more toe-in than Howard (front and back). Have tried lots on the rear wing. Currently running a smaller wing. My springs are similar to Howards except I have 200+300lb bump springs (500 total) that it rides on at speed when the wing is cranked. My shocks are softer (I'm running country highways).
Some of the settings are personal preference within reason (caster and toe), so don't hesitate to change.
I run a bit more toe-in than Howard (front and back). Have tried lots on the rear wing. Currently running a smaller wing. My springs are similar to Howards except I have 200+300lb bump springs (500 total) that it rides on at speed when the wing is cranked. My shocks are softer (I'm running country highways).
I'll chime in, even though this is an old thread. I have an 09 911 turbo cab 6 spd. It has a Tubi exhaust, aftermarket intake and a Champion tune. All done by the previous owner. 580hp if I'm lucky. There is a lot of turbo lag. It shifts great, the awd is nice but very difficult to get a good launch from a standstill. When you do hook up, it's thrilling. But borderline abusive. Then last year it started slipping, and currently the trans is out and I'm waiting on parts to complete the clutch job. The acceleration is intoxicating, my first few years of ownership it was difficult not to accelerate hard all the time. I have driven it on the track. It begins to feel a bit numb. The suspension is too soft (yeah, I know, convertible). It understeers. Even getting on the throttle coming out of a corner, corvettes seemed to be able to get the power down better because if I went full throttle after the apex, I understeered. Torque vectoring would be great, but that wasnt offered on the 997. The Tubi exhaust is a huge improvement over stock. It actually sounds great, positively screams under throttle, and has a valve that keeps it reasonable under 4k. It's impossible not to mash the throttle going under a bridge or in a tunnel. The car is easy to get in and out of, doesn't draw a bunch of attention, can be driven in any weather (above 40F, summer tires).
The SLC is in a completely different league. I drive the 911 on rainy days, the SLC on any other day I can. I never choose to drive the 911 over the SLC unless there are outside factors. That says it all. I could end there, but I won't.
I have a Lexus 1uz engine with twin turbos and graziano, penske racing shocks, whatever springs come with it and the track day splitter. Ride height is probably around 4.5". I did my own string alignment, but it wasn't planted at the track. I paid to have it aligned, and it transformed the handling. Incidentally, same for the 911. I got it aligned to the most aggressive side of the stock settings and that made a huge difference. And I still have even tire wear.
I have a seat slider for the driver, and was very particular about having my hips, shoulders and feet in a straight line. So the driving position is very comfortable. I'm angled towards the center of the car but there's no way around that. Not noticeable. The steering box is too slow. The stock shifter that came with my car (purchased the kit in 2015) is terrible. There's no centering for the 3-4 gate. Finding the right gear was guess work. I could see myself wearing out the syncros quickly. And no reverse lockout. So that was a must fix. A friend found an all aluminum racing shifter assembly that looked really trick. I love it. It looks so cool that I didn't want to cover it up so I ditched the center console and had to redesign the interior. The shifter action is nowhere as good as any stock car. I added mechanical bolt action reverse lockout, some would consider that a hassle too. The gearing is too low, even with the Graz. The acceleration is brutal, but I have to shift so frequently I'm not in gear for long. Changing that is expensive, so I just deal with it. I haven't compared (raced) the two. The SLC feels way faster, but it might not be. And what's crazy - it doesn't matter to me. I never thought this would be the case, but the SLC is more fun to drive at 2 tenths than the 911. It's also more fun to drive 10 tenths as well.
The car gets tons of attention. People get enthusiastic seeing it. Sometimes it gets a bit much. I always fill up at Costco, which is nice because it cuts down on the conversation and people can't follow you into the gas station. My wife refuses to ride in the car during the day because she hates the attention. She'll get in at night when it's dark, especially after a few drinks.
The nose is super low. I love the look. But it's constantly scraping. I have Bluetooth controls on the front of my steering wheel to raise the nose. Couldn't drive the car on the streets without it. I can quickly react to obstructions in the road and it's ergonomic to do so, but the hydraulic system is slow to respond. You have to plan ahead. I hit roadkill (raccoon?) on the highway going to cars and coffee and it broke the splitter. That poor thing has taken abuse. But when raised, it has the same road clearance as the 911. So there's nowhere I can't go.
I know I'm babbling here, I'm trying to stay on track.
The coolest thing about the SLC is the suspension. The lack of bushings and total immediacy of it is what makes it intoxicating. I have twin scroll turbos, and there is NO LAG. Especially compared to the 911. I hit the gas, and it launches forward. Passengers fly back in the seat. I slam on the brakes and fling them into the harnesses. Then turn, and the car responds immediately. That's what makes the car feel SO FAST. It's great to give rides, because it's so unlike anything else that anyone has ever been in. I gave rides in the 911 last month, and there's no immediacy, no "hold my beer" tricks that I can do, except feel the acceleration once the lag goes away. When accelerating I have to wait a moment for the power to hit. It's just not as exciting.
All shortcomings of the SLC fade right away even before I get in it. I love everything about it. My car was out of commission for over a year, and I missed it dearly. I started driving it again this spring and I absolutely love it. So much so that the 911 will be going up for sale.
A.J.
The SLC is in a completely different league. I drive the 911 on rainy days, the SLC on any other day I can. I never choose to drive the 911 over the SLC unless there are outside factors. That says it all. I could end there, but I won't.
I have a Lexus 1uz engine with twin turbos and graziano, penske racing shocks, whatever springs come with it and the track day splitter. Ride height is probably around 4.5". I did my own string alignment, but it wasn't planted at the track. I paid to have it aligned, and it transformed the handling. Incidentally, same for the 911. I got it aligned to the most aggressive side of the stock settings and that made a huge difference. And I still have even tire wear.
I have a seat slider for the driver, and was very particular about having my hips, shoulders and feet in a straight line. So the driving position is very comfortable. I'm angled towards the center of the car but there's no way around that. Not noticeable. The steering box is too slow. The stock shifter that came with my car (purchased the kit in 2015) is terrible. There's no centering for the 3-4 gate. Finding the right gear was guess work. I could see myself wearing out the syncros quickly. And no reverse lockout. So that was a must fix. A friend found an all aluminum racing shifter assembly that looked really trick. I love it. It looks so cool that I didn't want to cover it up so I ditched the center console and had to redesign the interior. The shifter action is nowhere as good as any stock car. I added mechanical bolt action reverse lockout, some would consider that a hassle too. The gearing is too low, even with the Graz. The acceleration is brutal, but I have to shift so frequently I'm not in gear for long. Changing that is expensive, so I just deal with it. I haven't compared (raced) the two. The SLC feels way faster, but it might not be. And what's crazy - it doesn't matter to me. I never thought this would be the case, but the SLC is more fun to drive at 2 tenths than the 911. It's also more fun to drive 10 tenths as well.
The car gets tons of attention. People get enthusiastic seeing it. Sometimes it gets a bit much. I always fill up at Costco, which is nice because it cuts down on the conversation and people can't follow you into the gas station. My wife refuses to ride in the car during the day because she hates the attention. She'll get in at night when it's dark, especially after a few drinks.
The nose is super low. I love the look. But it's constantly scraping. I have Bluetooth controls on the front of my steering wheel to raise the nose. Couldn't drive the car on the streets without it. I can quickly react to obstructions in the road and it's ergonomic to do so, but the hydraulic system is slow to respond. You have to plan ahead. I hit roadkill (raccoon?) on the highway going to cars and coffee and it broke the splitter. That poor thing has taken abuse. But when raised, it has the same road clearance as the 911. So there's nowhere I can't go.
I know I'm babbling here, I'm trying to stay on track.
The coolest thing about the SLC is the suspension. The lack of bushings and total immediacy of it is what makes it intoxicating. I have twin scroll turbos, and there is NO LAG. Especially compared to the 911. I hit the gas, and it launches forward. Passengers fly back in the seat. I slam on the brakes and fling them into the harnesses. Then turn, and the car responds immediately. That's what makes the car feel SO FAST. It's great to give rides, because it's so unlike anything else that anyone has ever been in. I gave rides in the 911 last month, and there's no immediacy, no "hold my beer" tricks that I can do, except feel the acceleration once the lag goes away. When accelerating I have to wait a moment for the power to hit. It's just not as exciting.
All shortcomings of the SLC fade right away even before I get in it. I love everything about it. My car was out of commission for over a year, and I missed it dearly. I started driving it again this spring and I absolutely love it. So much so that the 911 will be going up for sale.
A.J.
Could not have said it better AJ. I found the drive intoxicating beyond anything I have ever owned, (911 turbo, lotus Elise, Nissan GTR) . I am finishing the assembly after painting and can't wait to drive it again. Like you said , even driving it at 2 tenths is more fun than any car I have ever driven. And that's saying something.
I appreciate all the comments. I thought I would comment since I have had my car for about 6 months and been trying to improve on some of the build and figure out a lot of the things I need to improve from the prior builder. I've done a lot of work. This includes remounting the front splitter to the nose with rivnuts along with the support bars. The street splitter (to me) is too flimsy to just be mounted to the chasis with the small aluminum support bars. Most cars I have had had splitters much more substantial. I also closed up the brake inlets to keep the air flow better as I don't have brake ducts as I'm not tracking the car. Also, this allows me to have full wheel wells with no cut outs like most OEM cars. I know Mark B's splitter came loose when he was running the Texas Mile from the brake duct inlets. I replaced many body screws and hardware from button head to torx or hex head. I've adjusted the body panels to get better gaps but still not perfect but "acceptable". I'm currently tracing a lot of wires to so many added electrical components that are wired/wireless ( EStopp Brake, Viper Alarm and automatic door actuators, wireless Summit Raptor Steering wheel, hidden bluetooth stereo, I've got a lot of work to do more organize this wiring. One of the most difficult thing was the prior owner did not install race harnesses and just did some 4 point to the floor bolts over the back of the seat (Cam and others sommented on this either on here or Facebook and other places). What they did not do was cut out the slots in the carbon fiber interior tub to place the straps around the cross bar. So, I had to cut out the slots and with most difficulty, use various tools and instruments to blindly pass shoulder straps around the bar hidden behind the panel behind the seats. It was a major PITA, but I did it!!! I had to replace the clutch as the prior owners had not broken in the HCF clutch and it was slipping badly. I had a SPEC clutch and custom flywheel done as I live near the SPEC clutch facility. Big mistake on the shop that installed the clutch and BIG mistake on my part was not noticing they did not re-suspend the shifter cables and left them laying on the exhaust!!! Of course I didn't notice this until I got back from a drive and the next day my car would not shift. So, I had to pull the interior center console and rear speakers and install new cables.
Most recently I had the tune adjusted because it was doing a wired throttle blip on WOT. I am attaching the WOT dyno pull. It has a LT4 with 2.3 pulley swap. It's really too much power for this car.
Now to my driving experience. As stated above, the car is stupid fast. With 700 ft-lb of torque to the wheels that comes on immediately, TC is nonexistent in 1-2-3, not to mention the short gearing in the Graz and even though I have drop gears I need the longer set. I've had some 1000 hp street cars so I know how to respect the power but this is still scary power. Part the joy of the car is making the car my own by doing all this work. The car is loud, it creaks, getting in and out is a chore, it's hot even with AC (yes I have to do some more insulation as the hot air is coming in from the radiator), no flappy paddles, but it's just a blast to drive. I've been fortunate enough to own several sports cars and even a few supercars, but this has to rank up if not the most engaging, fun car. It's still got lots of flaws and quirks that frustrate me due to the wiring and electrical system. Those electrical gremlins prone in component/kit cars can drive me crazy. I need to pull the whole dash to see all the wiring and fuse box UNDER the dash. I've put about 700 miles on the car so far. I've got to get the car re-wrapped as it has a few scrapes and scratches from me removing the body panels, etc. If you don't like working on your car and tweaking things and improving things, then this car is not for you. It reminds me of a Boat, you like working on it as much as you like being out on it!! I've still got lots of things I want to improve on and figure out.
Most recently I had the tune adjusted because it was doing a wired throttle blip on WOT. I am attaching the WOT dyno pull. It has a LT4 with 2.3 pulley swap. It's really too much power for this car.
Now to my driving experience. As stated above, the car is stupid fast. With 700 ft-lb of torque to the wheels that comes on immediately, TC is nonexistent in 1-2-3, not to mention the short gearing in the Graz and even though I have drop gears I need the longer set. I've had some 1000 hp street cars so I know how to respect the power but this is still scary power. Part the joy of the car is making the car my own by doing all this work. The car is loud, it creaks, getting in and out is a chore, it's hot even with AC (yes I have to do some more insulation as the hot air is coming in from the radiator), no flappy paddles, but it's just a blast to drive. I've been fortunate enough to own several sports cars and even a few supercars, but this has to rank up if not the most engaging, fun car. It's still got lots of flaws and quirks that frustrate me due to the wiring and electrical system. Those electrical gremlins prone in component/kit cars can drive me crazy. I need to pull the whole dash to see all the wiring and fuse box UNDER the dash. I've put about 700 miles on the car so far. I've got to get the car re-wrapped as it has a few scrapes and scratches from me removing the body panels, etc. If you don't like working on your car and tweaking things and improving things, then this car is not for you. It reminds me of a Boat, you like working on it as much as you like being out on it!! I've still got lots of things I want to improve on and figure out.
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