Rod End Bearing Advice Request

I'm looking to refresh the suspension on my Southern GT40.

Rod end bearings.

Is there a "go to" brand / brands that are popular?

The load spec - is sometimes in newtons, sometimes lbs.

Again, is there a minimum / ideal spec that you look for given the wide variation in products available?

Thanks
 

Darius Rudis

Supporter
Bought most of mine thru SummitRacing, based on specs.
This is the rebuilt:
1724867784947.png


1724867810759.png


Before/After:
1724867900142.png
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
One of the biggest problems I’ve seen with racecar suspension in street driven cars is lack of maintenance. They need to be cleaned, lubed and exercised through their full range of motion quite frequently. Face it - in a racing car, they’d be inspected etc at least every 500 miles or sooner.
Second biggest problem is the bolts they are interfacing with. Properly sized “shouldered” bolts so the, rod end doesn’t hammer back and forth on the bolt (those shocks are terribly hard on the rod end…

That said - choose carefully as the best price is rarely the best value…
 

Neil

Supporter
Bought most of mine thru SummitRacing, based on specs.
This is the rebuilt:
View attachment 141752

View attachment 141753

Before/After:
View attachment 141754
There are some aerospace- grade spherical rod end bearing manufacturers but those are REALLY expensive. There are suppliers that can provide Teflon- lined bearings and those are usually high quality. Chrome- moly rod ends are preferred due to their higher strength. Be aware that some rod ends have a different bore size from their threaded end. Two comments re: the first photo of the blue suspension arm. 1. There are not enough threads showing on that nut. Two complete threads should show when the nut is fully torqued. 2. If this a-arm is right-side up, reverse the bolt. This way if the nut accidentally comes loose, the bolt will not fall out.
 

Darius Rudis

Supporter
...There are not enough threads showing on that nut. Two complete threads should show when the nut is fully torqued. 2. If this a-arm is right-side up, reverse the bolt. This way if the nut accidentally comes loose, the bolt will not fall out.
Thanks for the catch (pre-installed photo). Lots of extra threads when mounted correct side up orientation.
1725019815194.png
 
Thanks very much for the pointers.

To get into this I went for some medium to lower cost carbon steel ends.
Avoiding anything that looked like it may be made fro Chinesium Steel.
To get started and will keep a close eye on the joints into the future.
Measuring carefully, and then measuring very carefully I was pleased with the fitting process which was much smoother than I thought possible (for me).

One of the lower wishbone rod ends had completely failed - the sphere having completely separated from the rod end body.
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Hi Jay,

It's a good idea to specify PTFE lined bearings for all applications (except throttle linkage). They require no lubrication however should not be left dirty or wet. Normally the premium paid for PTFE lined bearing also reduces the chance of buying a low grade part. Nylon lined bearings are cheaper but you really only want to do this job once.

You mentioned bearing failures, please make sure the rod ends do not go into "bind" through the total range of motion. Typically rod ends cannot tolerate motion deflection greater than 7-10 degrees from horizontal. The bearing supplier will have spec sheets indicating the allowable range of motion, hope this helps.

Cheers
Ian
 
Hi Jay,

It's a good idea to specify PTFE lined bearings for all applications (except throttle linkage). They require no lubrication however should not be left dirty or wet. Normally the premium paid for PTFE lined bearing also reduces the chance of buying a low grade part. Nylon lined bearings are cheaper but you really only want to do this job once.

You mentioned bearing failures, please make sure the rod ends do not go into "bind" through the total range of motion. Typically rod ends cannot tolerate motion deflection greater than 7-10 degrees from horizontal. The bearing supplier will have spec sheets indicating the allowable range of motion, hope this helps.

Cheers
Ian
Thank you for adding this info Ian -

One thing that I don't think has been mentioned and continues to puzzle me is -

What an acceptable load rating should be for a rod end in a suspension set up, eg - lower rear wishbone to chassis.

This joint is the one under the most load - is this the case?

Am I overthinking this?

On balance I don't want to fit one for it to fail.

But then again I don't want to over spec and over pay for no good reason.

Thanks
 

Neil

Supporter
Thank you for adding this info Ian -

One thing that I don't think has been mentioned and continues to puzzle me is -

What an acceptable load rating should be for a rod end in a suspension set up, eg - lower rear wishbone to chassis.

This joint is the one under the most load - is this the case?

Am I overthinking this?

On balance I don't want to fit one for it to fail.

But then again I don't want to over spec and over pay for no good reason.

Thanks
I just checked Rod End Supply and a 1/2" right- hand thread high strength alloy Teflon- lined rod end was $9.48. Your application is probably similar but check the bore, threads, and whether you might need a high-misalignment type.
 
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