Race Car Replicas RCR-40 Build

[Chris Duncan]

Re: progress...

In order for the twin nostril cover to be most effective it has to seal completely at the radiator. Otherwise some of the air that comes in the front gets into the front clip area and pressurizes it. This can even cause lift at high speeds.

To facilitate this seal the electric fans are placed on the front of the radiator and the guards are not used. You can't get your hand in there anyway if you have a rock screen on the front entrance. All the guards are doing is obstructing airflow and adding weight. Many factory passenger cars don't have guards enclosing electric fan blades, although they do have warnings to keep your hands out. I guess they assume people will follow directions.

Fan shrouding is not an issue especially with two fans like this, a small block with this load even with AC will never push it enough to overheat. If you look at the design of the fan blade also it includes an outer band attached to the blades which in a way acts as a shroud.

The only time your going to get high loads is at high speeds and airflow overrides fan speed at something like 30 mph. so the fans aren't doing anything above that.

 

[Chris Duncan]

Re: progress...

Here's the fans I'm talking about that have a shroud edge attached to the end of all the blades, sort of hard to see in this pic though. Even the curved blade units have this.

http://www.haydenauto.com/electricfans.htm

 

Re: progress...

That also sounds reasonable. It would make sense to direct all the air flow through the nostrils and prevent a lot of turbulence under the front clip.

I would rather keep from putting the fans on the front of the radiator as Fran has built in a nice frame for mounting a screen directly in front of the radiator. This way, the screen isn't visible when looking at the mouth of the car. (I'll probably paint it flat black.) That way I'll get the protection of a screen without it being visible. I guess it was an aesthetic decision for me.

 

[Ron McCall]

Re: progress...

Awesome progress pics! Keep them coming!!!
Ron

 

Re: progress...

Thanks Ron...I'll be away for work for a couple weeks but then I'll be off for two weeks to work on the car. You should see a lot of progress then as we plan on fitting the body and dropping in the engine and transaxle!

 

update...

Here's some more pictures....

Doors hung and body loosely fitted...latches and fasteners to be installed next...

 

Re: update...

Front clip and filler caps...

 

Re: update...

Detail shot of one of the filler caps...

 

Re: update...

Close up of the door hinge...

 

Re: update...

engine...

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Re: update...

Great work Guys...not bad for only working on it two weeks of every month....and you are already hanging the panels...You make me proud... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif..

Great looking engine ....very period looking too(except the pump)....very classy,

 

[Ron McCall]

Re: update...

WOW! Looks great!The body looks like it fits very well. Keep the pics coming!!!!!
Ron

 

[Bill D]

Re: update...

I sit here drooling and wishing my car was here to work on. Great progress and great looking car.

Bill

 

Re: update...

Thanks guys...hanging the doors was the quickest part of the build...took us maybe 3 hours max!

 

[Sandy]

Re: update...

Michael -

I have a question it looks like the front of the electric moroso pump is way longer the the front of stock style pump including all the pulley's. How is the fitment looking? Is the Moroso pump going to be outside the driver compartment? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The reason I'm asking is I would like to see if running a belt drive (Danny Bee, RYR/CompCams, Jessel) will be possible since they push out the pump some distance. I can't remeber but I recall the Danny Bee is something like 3/8" thicker then stock covers. Also would like to run a RaceMate water pump/alternator and it may have the same issue of being too close to the bulk head.

Sandy

 

[Bill D]

Re: update...

I have a question as well-

What size are your fans? Could I use this?

It is made by Flex-a-Lite. The fans are 12" and they pull a total of 2500 CFM. Size requirements are 15-1/2" x 26-1/4" x 2-5/8"

Thanks

Bill D
Los Angeles, CA

 

[Sandy]

Re: update...

Bill -

I always hate the fans with the big shrouds, they work good for slow speed vehicles and such but are bad for cars that are not so traffic bound (hopefully that is not the intent since I also live in the traffic capitol of the USA with ya!). The less crap (Surface area) blocking the radiator the better it can work at speeds when the fans are not doing much to help. On my 65' Fastback with 570hp I have a 2 blade engine driven flex fan, no shroud, a nice fluidyne radiator (same size as stock but thicker) and it will run hot 220's in stop and go, but cools very quick once slowly moving. I was thinking about doing just one small fan and see how it works, but likely end up with 2 of the thin flex style for the symmetry. I have to worry now as I think by the time this gets read I'll be chaning my signature to RCR chassis #11 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Sandy

 

[Bill D]

Re: update...

Thanks Sandy

So, you feel it would be better to just add two fans and no shroud? Actually, it makes sense when you describe it as you did.

Michael-

What size fans are you using?

Thanks
Bill D
Los Angeles, CA

 

[Ron Earp]

Re: update...

Fans with shrouds are much more efficient than fans without shrouds. The cooling efficiency that you think you are experiencing at speed is, I would bet, just air moving through the radiator from the car in motion.

Look at it this way - if you can't keep the car cool at idle and in slow traffic it is because the fans are not pulling air through the radiator and cooling it off. They aren't pulling because of tip loss, a well known aeronautical phenomenon and the reason why any fan you find these days has a shroud of some type. Even if the shroud is a thin ring that will seal the fan to the radiator it'll do the job - the ones above are excessive.

Our Z race car had an unshrouded, but high quality, fan attached to the radiator. It'd overheat on the grid in about 6 minutes. Off it came, put one single shrouded fan on like this one:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=206698&prmenbr=361

And it'll sit as long as you like with moving and without overheating. That thin ring that seals the fan to the radiator and shrouds the tips and allows this thing to work properly.

 

[Bill D]

Re: update...

Thanks for the technical explanation Ron.