Oil pan / Windage tray

I am getting ready to replace the oil pan on a 427 side oiler. Have a simple question, almost embarrased to ask. Do I need two gaskets: between the block and the windage tray and another between the windage tray and the pan? or is one enough with a bit of sealant on the mating surfaces? Thanks.
 

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Randy V

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Chuck - I would use Permatex's "The Right Stuff" for that pan.. A bead on both sides of the windage tray - no gasket required..

If you'd rather skip using that type of sealant alone, then I would say you need two gaskets.

I've never had a leaker since I started using Right Stuff..
 
Thanks Rob. Just curious, have a pesky leak on a thermostat housing. Replaced the gasket once and now need to do so again. Is that a candidate for "the Right Stuff" or should I stick with the usual gaskets and sealants?
 

Randy V

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As long as you give The Right Stuff enough time to cure before you put it to work, you don't need a gasket. Just make sure that the surfaces to be sealed are cleaned with no residue of oil/coolant.. I use Lacquer Thinner to do the cleaning. Also - I just snug all the bolts a little while the stuff is curing and then go back to torque them after they are cured. This gives that added edge of protection - plus the bolts are secure.
 
If it helps, there are two gaskets used for the windage tray on my side oiler.

Thats the way it was done back in the good ol days when pan gaskets were about 0.75c ea and the parts guy just plucked them off the nail on the wall, nowadays the packaging & instruction sheet on how to fit it and dispose of the old oil & gasket in an acceptable manner costs more than the tube of 'Right Stuff or whatever'.

One thought, if its stroker or has aftermart rods etc check the clearance on the windage tray thru a couple of rotations of the crank first with no sealant or gasket-- save you coming back with a red face later asking what that funny tapping noise is. Gasket in a tube is great, but it can reduce clearances in this situation.
 
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