Michael's GT-R Build

[Michael Hampson]

Thanks for the compliment, Tony. Yes, this was on purpose. In my mind, the Ford GT (and GT-40) is very curvy, so I wanted to avoid the sharp angle that a straight cut would have left. Makes it look more "stock" to me as well.

 

[Johan]

Michael, do you remember what spring rate you ended up buying for the fronts?
RCR sent me 850lb, way too much.

 

[Michael Hampson]

Here is what I bought.
Desc, P/N, Mfg, Retailer, Note

Coil Spring, 2.5" ID, 4" 600Lb

LAN-4VB600

Landrum

Summit

Shorter shocks for use w/Ramlift

 

[Johan]

Thank you.

 

[Steve Malson]

Question, did you use the Vintage Air A/C Compressor with the RCR Kit (Sanden SD-7B10) on the Aluminator? From one of the pictures looks like you may have used a PBH-201 mount. Did you use a tensioner? Looking for mount options.

Additionally, how did it work out with bending the cooling tubes? Did you add flanges to the ends? I need to start looking at plumbing those and looking for suggestions.

Thank You,

Steve

 

[Michael Hampson]

Hi there, Steve,

The A/C compressor was a Sanden, but I don't remember the exact part number. I bought it as part of the A/C kit from Restomod Air. I had to buy that PBH bracket as well, from Power by the Hour. There was no tensioner. I seem to remember that there was a particular procedure to install the belt since you can't install it loose and tighten a tensioner.

The coolant pipes worked out just fine. I bought a tubing bender from JD Squared with the appropriate dies for that tubing. I rolled a bead on the ends with a cheap Amazon bead roller. It worked just fine on that aluminum pipe. This looked so much better than flexible rubber pipe or other alternatives.

Good luck with your build and feel free to ask any questions.

Michael

Question, did you use the Vintage Air A/C Compressor with the RCR Kit (Sanden SD-7B10) on the Aluminator? From one of the pictures looks like you may have used a PBH-201 mount. Did you use a tensioner? Looking for mount options.

Additionally, how did it work out with bending the cooling tubes? Did you add flanges to the ends? I need to start looking at plumbing those and looking for suggestions.

Thank You,

Steve

 

[Steve Malson]

Thanks for the information.

On a similar topic, how did you plumb your heater core / other coolant lines from the engine?
What overflow tank did you use?
Did you run a bleed line from the top of the radiator back to the overflow tank?

For the engine heater core lines I am looking at using the PBH Coyote Swap Heater Core Bypass Kit. Looks like a clean option.

Planning on tapping into the coolant lines in the front to feed the heater core.

Looking at different options for the overflow tanks, there are multiple replacement tanks for mustangs that look interesting.

Thank You

Steve

 

[Michael Hampson]

Hey Steve. for the heater, core, I welded in nipples in the radiator lines up front and added an electric heater pump to circulate coolant through it. I looked but didn't note the make/model of the pump. I expect there is a pic of it somewhere in the thread.

I didn't install a bleed line from the radiator to the overflow.

The overflow tank was provided by Superlite with the kit. It is a Dorman 503-200. I am not sure what the donor car is for that tank. I can't remember the plumbing exactly, but there was a 3/4" or so nipple at the engine that the tank connects to via hose, and the overflow connection on the tank I connected to a nipple I welded in at the topmost point of (I think) the thermostat housing to help bleeding air out of the system when filling.

I hope your build is going well!

Michael

 

[Bill Lonchas]

Haven't posted in a while - haven't had much time! Mainly, in the past couple of weeks, I have been working on body fitment. The whole body was twisted on the frame a good bit - front clip was shifted 1/2" to the driver's side, and rear was shifted to the passenger side. That has been a lot of tedious work! But I want it to be close so there is minimal body work later.

Meanwhile, got the steering column shroud from RCR last week, so I positioned and welded on the steering wheel spline. I cut about 3/4" off of the spline so that I could get the wheel positioned closer to the shroud to close up the ugly gap between the hub and the shroud. Looks better, but still might need some trim.View attachment 100002View attachment 100003View attachment 100004

Michael,
I know this was a while ago and you may not have additional photos or pictures of this modification, but I am trying to understand and visualize the changes made from photo one to photo two. I believe here you welded on the extension to the shaft in photo one. But it looks like several modifications were made in photo two. It looks like you cut off the inner slotted shaft and trimmed back the sold welded shaft also. Is that correct?
Thanks
Bill

 

[Michael Hampson]

Michael,
I know this was a while ago and you may not have additional photos or pictures of this modification, but I am trying to understand and visualize the changes made from photo one to photo two. I believe here you welded on the extension to the shaft in photo one. But it looks like several modifications were made in photo two. It looks like you cut off the inner slotted shaft and trimmed back the sold welded shaft also. Is that correct?
Thanks
Bill

Hi Bill,

I wish I remembered exactly. I remember that I first cut off some of the original steering wheel shaft so the outer shaft would slide down closer to the shroud. I honestly can't remember if I cut any off of the intermediate shaft or the outer splined shaft. I looked at photos, but I just don't have any more of that area. Sorry I can't help any more!

 

[Bill Lonchas]

Hi Bill,

I wish I remembered exactly. I remember that I first cut off some of the original steering wheel shaft so the outer shaft would slide down closer to the shroud. I honestly can't remember if I cut any off of the intermediate shaft or the outer splined shaft. I looked at photos, but I just don't have any more of that area. Sorry I can't help any more!

thanks