Ken's SLC build thread

[Brian Kissel]

Ken. Expert craftsmanship as always. Nicely done.

Regards Brian

 

[Jim B.]

I PMd you on the GT-R fog lights

 

[Ken Roberts]

There is a member on a Facebook BMW ABS brakes retrofit group that is developing a passive to active module for converting wheel speed outputs. It’s currently in the testing stage if anybody is interested in one. He is pricing them at $325. Here are a couple of pictures.

 

[Steven Lobel]

There is a member on a Facebook BMW ABS brakes retrofit group that is developing a passive to active module for converting wheel speed outputs. It’s currently in the testing stage if anybody is interested in one. He is pricing them at $325. Here are a couple of pictures.
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Unrelated to this, but there is a company NMSTEC that was making steering rack controller boxes for late model cars. I have a tesla rack and am awaiting a custom box to make the electric power steering work. Even if it is static assist I'd be happy. The underground support for CANBUS exists, just not well commercialized- no money in making an item you might sell 10 of in a year. Hobbyist level stuff.

 

[Craig Sinasac]

I recently installed an MK60 ABS system on my SLC and it is phenomenal, no more end swapping. I use the speed sensor built into the C6 front hubs and a toner ring on the rear drive shafts.

 

[Ken Roberts]

I recently installed an MK60 ABS system on my SLC and it is phenomenal, no more end swapping. I use the speed sensor built into the C6 front hubs and a toner ring on the rear drive shafts.

Which brake master cylinders are you using Craig? Are you using a steering angle sensor and YAW sensor to add dynamic stability control as well?

 

[Craig Sinasac]

I have no steering angle sensor, the YAW sensor is from an e46 BMW - #34526764018. The master cylinders are the ones supplied from RCR back in 2014 ... I don't recall the specs but I haven't changed them. I had Doug Wardell (Douglas Wardell ([email protected]) source most of the parts and create the wiring harnesses.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Back on the car after a lengthy break. I’m starting to fit up some of the interior items. First picture shows the rear window cutout “rough cut”. I can’t trim it to final size until the spider is back on. I built a strong camera mount for the AiM SmartyCam HD. I built a second one if anybody is interested.

Second picture shows the install of sun visors. By law, where I live, all passenger cars must have a functioning sun visor for the driver. One sun visor would look odd so I might as well try to fit up a pair. Later they will be sprayed black to cover the air bag warning decal that is painted on. The only issue with these sun visors is the fact, when in the down position, they will block the view from the rearview mirror if it was installed in front of the visors. My rearview mirror is small and will be mounted on the top of the dash much like the older Corvettes. Since I have a rear window the view from a dash mounted mirror makes sense. I still plan to use a OEM GM application Gentex video mirror in the future but it'll possibly be mounted directly behind the visors. Once the car passes tech inspection I can switch over. Here in Manitoba all passenger cars must have a rear window and functioning rearview mirror. The RAM mount that will be attached to the dash for use with the mirror will then be used for my AiM SOLO DL lap timer.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Many were complaining about the standard parking brake not being able to hold the car on an incline. Rich Kruger (Godspeed) mentioned earlier this year that his works great and he points out that the coil spring at the end of the cable at each caliper must be removed. The spring will enter coil bind and stop the cable from tightening up fully. You will think you have pulled the brake lever up fully to it's applied position and the pads are fully squeezing the rotor but in reality the cable stopped pulling once the coiled spring at the end entered coil bind. See the pictures I have posted.

Please comment if you removed the springs and it still didn't tighten enough.

 

[Joel K]

Ken,

I plan to cut my springs off and test it out in the coming months. Assuming this solves the problem it will be a bit ironic that such a simple fix could be the solution. Almost every builder has given up on these.

I read various threads on modifying the arm on the calipers to apply more tension, using the e*stopp 600 lb EP actuator which didn’t work, etc. etc.

These calipers have been around for a long time and used in the Viper Community with no issues so it never made any sense to me why they wouldn’t work for us. But the coil bind as Rich pointed out makes total sense.