Ken Roberts
Supporter
Ken's SLC build thread
- Thread starter KENS80V
- Start date
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Ken Roberts
Supporter
The 4 Mega fuses were mounted above the transaxle cooler location.
With the covers off you can see the copper buss bar that was made and bolted to the inboard side of the fuses to simplify the wiring of the mega fuses.
The last picture shows the junction location for the ground cables. Two studs are mounted to a aluminum bracket that is bolted to the rear bulkhead beam. The studs will be joined with a copper buss bar.
With the covers off you can see the copper buss bar that was made and bolted to the inboard side of the fuses to simplify the wiring of the mega fuses.
The last picture shows the junction location for the ground cables. Two studs are mounted to a aluminum bracket that is bolted to the rear bulkhead beam. The studs will be joined with a copper buss bar.
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Really nice work!
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Thanks Will. My design goal was to place everything within easy reach for servicing.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Finally got around to shaping the transition plate for the third brake light. This was a time consuming job. White caulk will be placed at the gap around the base of the light after painting.
I finished the construction of the rear mount for the air intake filter housing. It is rubber mounted with the same hardware that is used on the C6 Corvettes.
I finished the construction of the rear mount for the air intake filter housing. It is rubber mounted with the same hardware that is used on the C6 Corvettes.
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Ken Roberts
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Thanks YOS! I'll be wrapping up fitting of all the various parts to the car soon and start laying out all the wiring. The last big job will be constructing the modified dash. I will be farming that out though as I have no skills with fiberglass construction.
I'm also going to take the doors off and bond in and fasten inner and outer steel plates to where the hinge bolts mount. I just don't like the current aluminum plates. They allow too much movement/play.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I finished building all the emissions tubing for the engine. To give it a production car look I used as many factory connectors and tubing that I could find. I used nylon fuel tubing as well to make up some runs. You can gently heat it with a heat gun and make it bend to the angles you need. Double wall shrink tubing sleeves can be used to make splices to the factory tubing for the emission lines.
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Looks nice, I would take a look at the springs, mine looked like that and told to change them to a heavier one. I went to 750 lb which seemed not to me so coil bound and im a couple hundred pounds lighter then yours.
Just what I have been told, makes sense, dont want the coils to bottom out in travel then it will break or bend something.
Just what I have been told, makes sense, dont want the coils to bottom out in travel then it will break or bend something.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Actually changing to the 750lb 8inch springs this weekend Garry. I've even got a set of 850lb springs just encase I want to go stiffer yet. I'm using the Ricardo transaxle so I should have installed 750lb to start. I went to a longer spring to get a bit more ride height.
What are other Ricardo transaxle owners using for rear springs?
What are other Ricardo transaxle owners using for rear springs?
Car's looking really good. I can't wait to see how your interior turns out. I really like your third brake light and side marker lights.
I thought I had a sign that an SLC was in my near future. I was in the junkyard looking for some parts to complete a project and I spotted a Taurus wagon with a white third brake light off in the distance. I was going to get the first part for my SLC! Alas, the car was completely burned on the inside and I couldn't figure out a way to open the hatch to get it off. That's the way I roll.
I thought I had a sign that an SLC was in my near future. I was in the junkyard looking for some parts to complete a project and I spotted a Taurus wagon with a white third brake light off in the distance. I was going to get the first part for my SLC! Alas, the car was completely burned on the inside and I couldn't figure out a way to open the hatch to get it off. That's the way I roll.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
It wasn't meant to be just yet Scott...lol Just remember that a transition plate must be made to adapt the brake light to the different contour of the SLC roof. This was very time consuming to make. RCR should mold the roof line to make use of these lights.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Here is an important modification that all builders should consider.
If you ever need to remove your XLR or Integra steering column in the future and your dash is installed and you are using the stock heater/AC plenum it could end up being a time consuming ordeal. To remove the nuts on the four mounting bolts that hold the column up to the tub you must have access to the bolt heads. This will require you to remove the dash and the heater plenum. My heater plenum will be riveted and caulked in place to prevent leaks so removing it will be a major pain in the arse. You can see in my first picture that the two bolts closest to the driver are buried under the heater plenum. I've removed my heater plenum from the drivers side due to the HUD box being located there.
My solution was to weld the bolt heads to a flat plate. This plate gets bolted in place from the bottom with 5/16" allan head bolts.. The bolts won't spin because the heads are welded to the plate. Simply remove the nuts and the column can be removed after disconnecting the splined steering shaft. The extra holes in the plates are just to remove a bit of weight.
If you ever need to remove your XLR or Integra steering column in the future and your dash is installed and you are using the stock heater/AC plenum it could end up being a time consuming ordeal. To remove the nuts on the four mounting bolts that hold the column up to the tub you must have access to the bolt heads. This will require you to remove the dash and the heater plenum. My heater plenum will be riveted and caulked in place to prevent leaks so removing it will be a major pain in the arse. You can see in my first picture that the two bolts closest to the driver are buried under the heater plenum. I've removed my heater plenum from the drivers side due to the HUD box being located there.
My solution was to weld the bolt heads to a flat plate. This plate gets bolted in place from the bottom with 5/16" allan head bolts.. The bolts won't spin because the heads are welded to the plate. Simply remove the nuts and the column can be removed after disconnecting the splined steering shaft. The extra holes in the plates are just to remove a bit of weight.
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Ken Roberts
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The mounting bolts holes on the XLR column are larger on the right side of the column. With repeated installing and removing I've found that my washers have cupped over time (on the right side only). This means they need a thicker washer. Just a "heads up" for anyone.
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Ken Roberts
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Ken:
Let us know how the 750 lb springs look. Are you using 7" - 750 lb? I'm getting ready to order mine and I want to see examples before I order. Your transmission is heavier than mine? How much more weight?
I'm coil bound too.
If you look at the picture in post #382 you can see that I am almost out of travel with the stock 650lb spring. With them in the picture as shown I still don't have enough ride height. I and others have elected to go with 8" springs instead in the back. The Ricardo is just over 200lbs I believe. It might be 20lbs heavier than the Graz but I'm just guessing.
Great suggestion.
Nut plates are key to making future service and accessibility easier and less time consuming.
