Jim's RCR GT-R build

[Jim B.]

Steve, I am in Portland Oregon.
I am looking for a double ended reducing bolt from 5/8 to 1/2 but if I cant find one I will open the hole up. I figured this solid metal bracket would be easier to open up than the one you mentioned since it looks cast. I wish I knew how that front RCR motor mount was meant to be used.
I am setting the motor in the engine bay today to see how things line up. I am worried if the adaptor plate holes will line up with the RCR frame mounts. I will let you know how that works.
I am also worried about a solid metal connection for the motor mount. I am thinking that will lead to lots of vibrations.

I have the RCR fuel system, and I was just laying out all the parts that came with it. I am also looking to use a hydromat given the length of the tank and potential for starvation on inclines. the best fitting I have seen is a 3"x15". I think I am going to try and push it towards the middle of the tank.
I pulled my tank last night and noticed there is a thin piece of foam in the bottom. I assume I will need to move that for the hydromat but not sure

 

[Jim B.]

Steve, I forgot to mention I have the BBK shorty headers. There might be a conflict with trans adaptor plate. I will know that today as well.

 

[Jim B.]

I need some suggestions. I mounted the trans adapter. It took some work to get it on over the 2 dowels in the motor. I am able to get 3 bolts in in (green circles) but the 2 in red circles are off just 1 mm or so. I put them in from behind to see how far off they are. Do I relieve the holes to get them in? do I need to be concerned that it is off slightly for the trans alignment? Thanks

 

[Joel K]

I need some suggestions. I mounted the trans adapter. It took some work to get it on over the 2 dowels in the motor. I am able to get 3 bolts in in (green circles) but the 2 in red circles are off just 1 mm or so. I put them in from behind to see how far off they are. Do I relieve the holes to get them in? do I need to be concerned that it is off slightly for the trans alignment? Thanks

Those holes need to line up perfectly. Call RCR, my guess is you have the wrong adapter plate.

 

[Jim B.]

Those holes need to line up perfectly. Call RCR, my guess is you have the wrong adapter plate.

Thanks, for the reply @Jkviper . I have been watching your trans install video over and over in preparation for my next step. I am looking at moving my engine/trans back one inch, do you think I would need the axle spacers like you did?

I was wondering if was the wrong one as well but it has "Coyote-Graz" machined into it. I wasnt sure if others has issues with a tight fit. I tried moving it with a dead blow hammer, but those 2 bolts are off in the opposite direction. I will try starting with different bolt holes unless there are other suggestions.

 

[Joel K]

Jim,

That adapter plate has to be dead on. The clutch needs to be perfectly centered to the pilot bearing.

There is one thing I might have done differently to help line up the transaxle on install. This was a tip after the fact by an old school transmission guy. I would make some guiding bolts. Similar to extra long wheel stud extenders.

You could use long M10 bolts and cut the heads off, screw in tight to the transaxle adapter then slide the graz onto those bolts to help guide it. Level it out and slide the drive shaft into the pilot bearing. Then replace those guide bolts with hex or cap bolts.

It took a lot of patience to get the drive shaft splines to line up with the pilot bearings. Be patient and don’t force it and ruin the pilot bearing. The trick is you have to make the drive shaft level then it goes in with a little help/pushing.

 

[Joel K]

Thanks, for the reply @Jkviper . I have been watching your trans install video over and over in preparation for my next step. I am looking at moving my engine/trans back one inch, do you think I would need the axle spacers like you did?

I was wondering if was the wrong one as well but it has "Coyote-Graz" machined into it. I wasnt sure if others has issues with a tight fit. I tried moving it with a dead blow hammer, but those 2 bolts are off in the opposite direction. I will try starting with different bolt holes unless there are other suggestions.

With regard to needing axle spacers, you will know that once it is all put together. Ride height, camber, engine height, left-right orientation of the engine all play a role.

If you get at least the minimum amount of play(I forget what DSS recommended) in each axle you are good. I have other builders measure their axle play and the numbers were all a bit different.

 

[Jim B.]

You could use long M10 bolts and cut the heads off, screw in tight to the transaxle adapter then slide the graz onto those bolts to help guide it. Level it out and slide the drive shaft into the pilot bearing. Then replace those guide bolts with hex or cap bolts.

@Jkviper I will do this for sure. Did you old time trans guy have any tricks to make sure the pilot bearing is centered? I will try to measure but not sure that will be accurate enough

 

[Jim B.]

@smalson you can see where the shorty headers dump in this pict

 

[Joel K]

Well the pilot bearing should press into the flywheel and center itself. If it is a slip fit or loose fit that is not ideal. It should take some amount of pressure to install.

You need a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch to the pilot bearing.

This is the tool I purchased for the Graziano clutch…

T40151, Centering Pin - VW Authorized Tools and Equipment

vw.snapon.com

 

[Jim B.]

Well the pilot bearing should press into the flywheel and center itself. If it is a slip fit or loose fit that is not ideal. It should take some amount of pressure to install.

You need a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch to the pilot bearing.

This is the tool I purchased for the Graziano clutch…

T40151, Centering Pin - VW Authorized Tools and Equipment

vw.snapon.com

I am good on all that. Its the trans input shaft location based on my adaptor mounting issues. I want to make sure it is aligned properly give 2 bolts being off.

 

[Neil]

I am good on all that. Its the trans input shaft location based on my adaptor mounting issues. I want to make sure it is aligned properly give 2 bolts being off.

Do not use a plastic clutch alignment tool. I spent unnecessary time fooling with one!

 

[Joel K]

I am good on all that. It’s ust to be clearthe trans input shaft location based on my adaptor mounting issues. I want to make sure it is aligned properly give 2 bolts being off.

Jim,

Just to be clear, in my opinion you have the wrong adapter plate. It needs to attach precisely. There is maybe a few thousands of an inch tolerance and your holes are way off. Definitely speak to RCR on why the holes don’t line up.

 

[Jim B.]

without the shifter hooked up how can I move the shifter arm on the trans to put it in first gear so I can twist the axle flanges to help me align the splines with the clutch while bolting them up?

 

[Jim B.]

Definitely speak to RCR on why the holes don’t line up.

I heard back and they said it is the correct one and suggested I remove all bolts and try again. I will try that tonight

 

[Joel K]

I heard back and they said it is the correct one and suggested I remove all bolts and try again. I will try that tonight

Good news. That does make sense. I attached my adapter to the engine first then the engine to the front and rear engine mounts. It’s possible the transaxle adapter is tightened up to the rear engine mounts and does not aligned to the engine.

 

[Joel K]

without the shifter hooked up how can I move the shifter arm on the trans to put it in first gear so I can twist the axle flanges to help me align the splines with the clutch while bolting them up?

You can simply move the shifter mechanism by hand.
You can locate neutral by inserting the proper size drill blank through the linkage and into a locating hole on the trans case. I used a transfer punch like this and the transaxle will be in neutral. I don’t think mine was in neutral and wasn’t hard to turn by hand.

Here is a pic for neutral…

 

[Jim B.]

I have the RCR purchased fuel system. I am trying to attach the -6 AN fbm4412 to the side of the supplied surge tank but it only goes a thread or so. The 8 and 10 AN spin on by hand. I don't want use a wrench and ruin the threads. Not sure if you can see in the photo. Should I use Teflon tape or some lubricant? Is there a die I can use to recut?

 

[Ken Roberts]

A small triangular shaped file may be enough to clean up the offending threads. Zooming in on the picture…….the lower fitting looks like it needs cleaned up slightly near the end (between the first & second thread).

 

[Jim B.]

I was able to get a 9/16"-18 nut and force it on to freshen the threads. I have that size thread cutting dye but it seemed too aggressive and I was afraid of cutting the good threads.