It lives! (but no tach :/ )

[Alex]

You'll know when you've overtravelled it too far when the fork pivot boss inside the bellhousing breaks off.......

You keep mentioning that .... speaking rfom experience? :O

Also, is this the same for all hydraulic clutches? I hate excessive pedal travel (only thing i hate about my z06), but i can't figure out why then so much travel is fine on the corvette transaxle - from the time I can slip the shifter into gear to when I reach the clutch stop I've got massive (like 2-3'') of additional travel on my pedal.

 

[Alex]

Probably the reason my water temps on the passenger head are lower is because of fuel/tuning on that side - my exhaust pipes are warm, but nowhere near as hot as the driver side, so that'll need to be addressed


And now my engine is blowing out blue smoke out of the passenger side at idle (no idea about driving). Wonderful. If I stand behind the car and feel both exhaust pipes, I can feel the exhaust comign out of the driver side (it has force behind it). I can barely feel the exhaust coming out of the passenger side - no force behind it, just a light breeze. The tips are also colored differently (the driver side has darkened, the passenger side looks brand new), so I know there's some tuning that needs to be done, but I'm pretty sure blue smoke = oil in the exhaust, which is not tune related, and means I'm f*k'd.

Fvcking engines, nothing but problems for me.


edit: I'm 99.9% certian this has nothing to do with the pcv system (because a few days ago at idle it was not blowing blue smoke out the passenger side), but just to check -

I have a hose running from the left side of the throttle body to the snout on the front of the valley cover

I have a hose running from the passenger front valve cover breather area to my intake pipe between my MAF and the throttle body.

I have plugged the breather on the driver side valve cover, as well as the port on the throttle on the right-hand side.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Alex,

Pull your plugs and see what it looks like. That will tell you a lot. Keep us posted.

 

[Grant S]

is it popping at all ? and like Dean said check your plugs if they are silver or have alum appearance do not run the engine any more till to have someone who knows how to map and has a tuner program or at least can put a wide band O2 reader on it ? check your fuel pressure If I remember correctly it should be around 60 / 65 psi ? best of luck.

 

[Alex]

I have an LM2 widebad so I can see the a/f ... unfortunately we only put 1 extra bung in for tuning, on the driver side, so I can't read what the passenger side a/f is. (could always weld a bung in there)

I should clarify that I don't have heavy blue smoke billowing out - it's very light blue that you can only really see if you're looking for it, so it's possible it's a combination of break-in + tuning.

What I don't know, however

1 - Should there be a 20* difference in each side of the engine? I.e., should the headers on the passenger side be cooler than the driver side? (driver side burns me if I touch, passenger side I can rest my hand on it). Pretty sure they should be even? (tuning issue) All the header tubes are warm and the same temperature (on their respective sides) so at least that means the cylinders are firing.

2 - My passenger side exhaust (cooler side of engine) is basically clean. If i pull out the O2 sensor, nothing's on it, looks brand new. On the driver side, it's the opposite story - very darkened. So one could say the driver side is running rich. Except for the fact it's the hotter side of the engine; same w/ passenger side - one could say lean, but it's th ecooler side


It's possible the light blue is caused from fuel washing down from being mega rich ... which would make sense since the temp difference side-to-side is so noticable, BUT it doesn't explain why my passenger side O2 sensor looks basically brand new (not darkened, tips not darkened at all)

 

[Alex]

I pulled out 2 spark plugs on the driver side - they're basically pitch black.

I pulled out 2 spark plugs on the passenger side and the bottom half of the ground electrode is pitch dark, but the top half is almost sivlerish. Not tan or grey, but silver, like it isn't firing (even though it is)

I asked several people with LS crate engines if their exhaust pulses felt the same on each side - all 3 said yes ..... could a tuning issue (regardless of what it could be) cause one side of the exhaust to push stronger than the other side if you felt both sides of the exhaust?

 

[Mike]

Check all connections - sparkplug wires seated - fuel injector wires seated and clipped. Check all the simple stuff 1st.

l

 

[Ken Roberts]

Are you setting any trouble codes? Double check your ground connections. Do you have a ground path back to the battery?

 

[Alex]

2ga battery/frame ground
2ga engine/frame ground
2ga starter/frame ground

red light in fuse box is not lit up. my LM2 reports 0 codes.

See my post about spark plugs right above yours Ken - one side is basically all black, the other side is silver. Definately a tuning issue going on, but I don't know if I also have mechanical issue because of the difference in the strength of the exhaust pulses side-to-side

 

[Dean Lampe]

I don't think your getting enough gas on that side or your spark isn't consistent. I would love to see those spark plugs. I don't think its a tune but if it is, you might switch the O2 sensors and see what that does. The fuel is regulated, in part, by the info gathered by the O2. You might have a bad one or one that is not consistent. Is the passenger side feed by the fuel line first? You could also switch the injectors side to side and see if that helps. Maybe one or two of those are clogged or bad.


Sometimes knowing what it's not is as good as knowing what it is.

 

[Dean Lampe]

I have 2 ground connections on the back of the driverside head and one on the passenger side head. Do you have those attached? They are part of the harness and need to be grounded to the engine.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Check to make sure cyl #1 is indeed #1 with the correct injectors/harness located and firing in the right order and that you have the right vs Left bank ignition correctly installed...

Sounds like you may have the banks switched...

 

[Alex]

I have 2 ground connections on the back of the driverside head and one on the passenger side head. Do you have those attached? They are part of the harness and need to be grounded to the engine.

I have the 3 ECU grounds attached tot he d/s and p/s head.

I don't think your getting enough gas on that side or your spark isn't consistent. I would love to see those spark plugs. I don't think its a tune but if it is, you might switch the O2 sensors and see what that does. The fuel is regulated, in part, by the info gathered by the O2. You might have a bad one or one that is not consistent. Is the passenger side feed by the fuel line first? You could also switch the injectors side to side and see if that helps. Maybe one or two of those are clogged or bad.

Sometimes knowing what it's not is as good as knowing what it is.

I tried swapping O2s side-to-side and no difference.

Passenger side (silver colored spark plugs) is the side the fuel is feeding from

Don't think there's any point swapping injectors - can't see the spark plugs being consistent with the others on their respective sides, but not side-to-side, if one or two injectors were bad.

Check to make sure cyl #1 is indeed #1 with the correct injectors/harness located and firing in the right order and that you have the right vs Left bank ignition correctly installed...

Sounds like you may have the banks switched...

Assuming driver front is #1 (and d/s is odd) and passenger front is #2 (passenger is even), I've got it wired up properly.

Of course if the person who made the harness eff'd it up and reversed wires incorrectly I'd never know in a million years.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Just switch the ignition/coil pack connections for grins and see...you will know "real quick"

LS engines dont like fouled plugs either...they are very sensitive to that....new plugs first

 

[Troy Truglio]

I have the 3 ECU grounds attached tot he d/s and p/s head.




I tried swapping O2s side-to-side and no difference.

Passenger side (silver colored spark plugs) is the side the fuel is feeding from

Don't think there's any point swapping injectors - can't see the spark plugs being consistent with the others on their respective sides, but not side-to-side, if one or two injectors were bad.





Assuming driver front is #1 (and d/s is odd) and passenger front is #2 (passenger is even), I've got it wired up properly.

Of course if the person who made the harness eff'd it up and reversed wires incorrectly I'd never know in a million years.

You can get out wiring schematic, pull ecu plug, pull injectors and coil plugs and check each one with the ohm meter. I had to do this on an engine swap and took me 3 hours to find a few wrong wires. I had it the schematic all spread out and used a highlighter each time I check a wire. Once the paper was all lit up like a Xmas tree I tested it out and good. Wiring issue can take a while to do. If you do this you will really know your wiring system and it might save you time later if any other issues come up. I know I am going to have to do something similar since I am going to have to basically repin 80% of the injectors and coils since only 1 and 2 are the same for me. Fun times for sure. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with it.

Aslo, do you all change the plugs after 5-10min of running wtih a new engine? I usally do, but I not shy with assembly lube, oil on walls, cams, ect. I usually swap out plugs, oil and filter really quick just to be anal.

 

[Dean Lampe]

What about putting both of the 02 sensors on the drivers and the lm1 on the passenger side? If nothing else this will tell you what your a/f ratio is on that side.

I'm really at a loss, just looking for different ways to check the system.

My old Weber's are a long way from this EFI stuff!

 

[Alex]

I pulled off the valve cover to look around, didn't notice anything bad. Removed all the plugs and wires and reinstalled them.

I started up the car and both sides were even - the pulses were the same (if I put my hand behind the exhaust and felt it) and the exhaust sounded the same side-to-side (before the driver side was overpowering the passenger side, now they sound even). So one of 3 things at the moment (it's almost midnight so I can't run it up to temperature, only had the engine going for 30 seconds)

- One or two of the wires were loose and were somehow throwing off the entire bank (allt he spark plugs looked the same when I examined them)

- There's a mechanical problem and when it starts up everything is fine, but as the engine warms up something happens which causes the exhaust pulses on the passenger side to weaken (and the driver side to sound noticably louder/cammier)

- There's a tuning issue and somehow as it's warming up the computer decides to f*k me over and do somethign it shouldn't be.


So I guess for right now the good news is, at least right now, if I fire it up and let it idle for 30 seconds the exhaust pulses feel even side-to-side and it sounds the same side-to-side. What happens after 30 seconds is a mystery until tmorrow :uneasy:

My old Weber's are a long way from this EFI stuff!

I miss using a Holley 4500

Fran ....... 917 ..... 351w + carb .... puh-lease???

 

[Dean Lampe]

Good luck Alex.

I hope all this was a result of a plug wire and it all works well for you today. Keep us posted.

 

[Mike]

Subject to errors and omissions-

So - when you start the car and it's cold it seems to be running properly and until the engine warms up the O2 sensors, they will be ignored for adjusting the fuel delivery for the system is running in "Open Loop". Once the engine warms, the O2 sensor information will be used along with info from the Throttle Position Sensor and Mass Air Flow meter to determine fueling - it's now in "closed loop". O2 sensors can be sensitive to damage from being dropped, do you have a solid connection to/from the o2 sensor wire to the sensor, that extra bung you have is it before the O2 sensor - is it leaking. Are all your Intake/TB connections properly connected and/or plugged. Go and check everything twice (grab a coffee or adult beverage) and come back later and check again. I wouldn't think it's a ECM out of the box tuning failure, but you never know. Likely related to some loose or mis-wired connection - air or electrical. Been here-done this and it's usually something simple that may reveal itself as a "Duh" moment. Keep at it and let us know. For sure somebody will encounter this and any revealed info will certainly help the group....

 

[Jack]

Dumb question, but when you reversed the intake manifold did you maintain the coil packs and injectors on the proper sides of the engine. They don't move, only the manifold proper.