This hurts more than you could imagine guys…………
My GTD-40 is now for sale, a victim of domestic discord.…………About 98%, maybe better, of the parts are present to complete the build. This is a very high end GTD build, undertaken with the engineering support and guidance of some of my dear friends in the UK and locally, including Roy Smart, Frank Catt, Malcolm Macadam, Paul Thompson and Bill Howe just to name a few.
Specifications are as follows:
• GTD Lightweight chassis, very likely the last Ray Christopher chassis to leave the factory.
• Left Hand drive, left hand shift configuration, converted utilizing Roy Smart components
• Left hand shift to R-21 transaxle mechanism designed and manufactured by Roy Smart
• Door handles and fitting packs
• Aluminum door eyebrows
• Gurney bubble for driver’s side
• GTD Aluminum explosafe fuel tanks
• Swan necks and fuel filler caps
• GTD Steering rack lifted to correct bump steer.
• Steering column with steering wheel
• GTD Windscreen, bronze tinted
• GTD body catches, mounting bars and stays
• F.A.V. Chassis plates engraved with GTD Chassis number, GTD40012020037099
• One off aluminum paneling, assembled to the chassis with 3M 5252 and BLIND pop rivets (no water intrusion). Dynamat backed where possible and chassis voids filled with expanding foam to create ridgid quiet structure.
• Aluminum interior.
• Bill Howe seat shells
• Bill Howe deep nostril conversion
• Bill Howe rear brake coolant ducts
• FIA Sanctioning rear rollover struts manufactured by Roy Smart
• Harness bar
Suspension
• Front
o Ray Christopher fabricated big bearing front uprights. No flex, these uprights are monsters
o Southern GT upper front A arms with ball joints(to be installed)
• Rear
o Stock fabricated rear uprights, I intended to mill them out to remove weight
o Upper and lower trailing arms converted to ball joints, the fabricators screwed up the first set but I have D.O.M. tubing and weld-in threaded inserts to make an new set. Also includes additional weld in bungs to convert upper dog bones to ball joints.
• SPAX shocks
• The entire car has been constructed with AN fasteners from Pegasus Autoracing, including bolts, washers and aircraft style locking nuts.
Brakes: Designed and manufactured by Precision Brakes Company
• Front -325mm x 32 mm 2 piece slotted rotors, Willwood BSL6 six piston calipers
• Rear – 310 x 32 mm 2 piece slotted rotors, Willwood Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers
• Precision Brakes mechanical parking brake
• Ford parking brake actualtor
• Adjustable pedal box, left–right-fore-aft, with Tilton # 72-628 forward swing pedal set, triple master cylinder setup, including balance bar and necessary 75 series master cylinders for clutch and brakes
• Includes flex hoses, cables and all necessary pads
• Inline tube stainless brake line kit
Wheels:
• PS Engineering 6 pin drive wheels with knock on spinners
• 17x 8 front
• 17x 10 rear
• Ray Christopher pin drive wheel adapters.
• Tires- Yokahama
Electrics:
• Headlights, taillights, directionals, reverse lights and Hella 90 mm driving lights
• American Autowire, Highway 22 panel wiring kit
• American Autowire 1/0 battery cable kit, 1/0 gauge
• Two SPAL 1300 cfm cooling fans with 185 degree temp sensor
• Correct Smith’s period instruments
• Windshield wiper kit
• Hella Horns
• Powermaster 100 Amp one wire alternator
• Odyssey DryCell Battery, very small but does the trick
• Odyssey battery tray
• Tilton part #54-10007 geared starter with custom adapter, turns this motor like a turbine.
• Holley electric fuel pump
• GTD Factory heater/defroster setup
Transaxle: From Mach I services
• R21T UN1-13
• 3.44 differential
• Converted for either left or right hand shift
• Solid 1st/2nd fork connection
• 1st and 2nd double sprung syncro selector
• Gearbox internals fully checked and overhauled with springs, seals bearings and forks replaced where necessary.
• Drive flanges, axles and CV joints included.
Engine: Built by the Engine Factory, hot run and tested, approximately 380 hp, includes video of engine running on the bench.
• Blueprinted machined 302 Roller Block version
• Nodular Cast Iron Crankshaft
• Shot peened hardened connecting rods
• Federal Mogul 10:1 CR Hyperuetectic pistons
• Heavy Duty double roller Dynagear Timing set
• Comp Cams Hydraulic camshaft # 35-430-8 224 / 224 duration @ .050 .560 / .560 Lift
• Comp Cams 1.6 to 1 Ratio Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms
• Edelbrock RPM Aluminum fast burn cylinder heads with stainless 2.02 “ valves and hardened locks, chrome moly retainers and HD valve springs.
• Melling high volume oil pump
• Canton baffled road race pan, 8 quart
• 2 quart Accusump pre-oiler surge protector, to be installed
• Edelbrock performer RPM dual Plane intake
• Edelbrock 650 cfm 4 barrel AVS carb with electric choke
• Ford Racing short nose water pump
• Rebuilt radiator
• Stainless coolant tubes
• Aluminum overflow tank
• Aluminum swirl pot to bleed air from coolant (needs to be welded)
• Small diameter Accel billet distributor, accel 300 series electronic Ignition with Accel coil
• Custom headers
• Magnaflow mufflers
• Custom flywheel
• Steel Adapter plate to transaxle
• AP Racing paddle clutch
• SPA AFFF electrically actuated Fire suppression system, 4.0 Liter, to be installed
Required to complete
• Manufacture seat backs, I intended to use folded tig welded aluminum
• Terminate wiring harness
• Safety harnesses
• Mirrors
• Muffler support bracket
• Remote battery disconnect
• Coolant tubes for the front of the motor
• Side windows and firewall window.
• Plus some other things that I can’t quite remember now.
• Install the fun stuff like the Accusump, the foam fire suppression system, etc.
• Align body panels; adjust gaps, body work and paint. If you are afraid of body work then don’t bother.
A serious effort could have the car drive-able in maybe a week. Includes whatever spares and redundant parts I have, extra CV joints, master cylinders, an extra set of rotors, boxes of rivets, AN hardware, an engine hoist, an engine stand, etc..
I think $35,000 is a fair price. Someone with little patience and know how could have a real butt kicking GT-40 Replica for under 40K. The car is in Eastern Mass, outside of Boston at a friend’s house.
Please contact me through the forum
My GTD-40 is now for sale, a victim of domestic discord.…………About 98%, maybe better, of the parts are present to complete the build. This is a very high end GTD build, undertaken with the engineering support and guidance of some of my dear friends in the UK and locally, including Roy Smart, Frank Catt, Malcolm Macadam, Paul Thompson and Bill Howe just to name a few.
Specifications are as follows:
• GTD Lightweight chassis, very likely the last Ray Christopher chassis to leave the factory.
• Left Hand drive, left hand shift configuration, converted utilizing Roy Smart components
• Left hand shift to R-21 transaxle mechanism designed and manufactured by Roy Smart
• Door handles and fitting packs
• Aluminum door eyebrows
• Gurney bubble for driver’s side
• GTD Aluminum explosafe fuel tanks
• Swan necks and fuel filler caps
• GTD Steering rack lifted to correct bump steer.
• Steering column with steering wheel
• GTD Windscreen, bronze tinted
• GTD body catches, mounting bars and stays
• F.A.V. Chassis plates engraved with GTD Chassis number, GTD40012020037099
• One off aluminum paneling, assembled to the chassis with 3M 5252 and BLIND pop rivets (no water intrusion). Dynamat backed where possible and chassis voids filled with expanding foam to create ridgid quiet structure.
• Aluminum interior.
• Bill Howe seat shells
• Bill Howe deep nostril conversion
• Bill Howe rear brake coolant ducts
• FIA Sanctioning rear rollover struts manufactured by Roy Smart
• Harness bar
Suspension
• Front
o Ray Christopher fabricated big bearing front uprights. No flex, these uprights are monsters
o Southern GT upper front A arms with ball joints(to be installed)
• Rear
o Stock fabricated rear uprights, I intended to mill them out to remove weight
o Upper and lower trailing arms converted to ball joints, the fabricators screwed up the first set but I have D.O.M. tubing and weld-in threaded inserts to make an new set. Also includes additional weld in bungs to convert upper dog bones to ball joints.
• SPAX shocks
• The entire car has been constructed with AN fasteners from Pegasus Autoracing, including bolts, washers and aircraft style locking nuts.
Brakes: Designed and manufactured by Precision Brakes Company
• Front -325mm x 32 mm 2 piece slotted rotors, Willwood BSL6 six piston calipers
• Rear – 310 x 32 mm 2 piece slotted rotors, Willwood Forged Superlite 4 piston calipers
• Precision Brakes mechanical parking brake
• Ford parking brake actualtor
• Adjustable pedal box, left–right-fore-aft, with Tilton # 72-628 forward swing pedal set, triple master cylinder setup, including balance bar and necessary 75 series master cylinders for clutch and brakes
• Includes flex hoses, cables and all necessary pads
• Inline tube stainless brake line kit
Wheels:
• PS Engineering 6 pin drive wheels with knock on spinners
• 17x 8 front
• 17x 10 rear
• Ray Christopher pin drive wheel adapters.
• Tires- Yokahama
Electrics:
• Headlights, taillights, directionals, reverse lights and Hella 90 mm driving lights
• American Autowire, Highway 22 panel wiring kit
• American Autowire 1/0 battery cable kit, 1/0 gauge
• Two SPAL 1300 cfm cooling fans with 185 degree temp sensor
• Correct Smith’s period instruments
• Windshield wiper kit
• Hella Horns
• Powermaster 100 Amp one wire alternator
• Odyssey DryCell Battery, very small but does the trick
• Odyssey battery tray
• Tilton part #54-10007 geared starter with custom adapter, turns this motor like a turbine.
• Holley electric fuel pump
• GTD Factory heater/defroster setup
Transaxle: From Mach I services
• R21T UN1-13
• 3.44 differential
• Converted for either left or right hand shift
• Solid 1st/2nd fork connection
• 1st and 2nd double sprung syncro selector
• Gearbox internals fully checked and overhauled with springs, seals bearings and forks replaced where necessary.
• Drive flanges, axles and CV joints included.
Engine: Built by the Engine Factory, hot run and tested, approximately 380 hp, includes video of engine running on the bench.
• Blueprinted machined 302 Roller Block version
• Nodular Cast Iron Crankshaft
• Shot peened hardened connecting rods
• Federal Mogul 10:1 CR Hyperuetectic pistons
• Heavy Duty double roller Dynagear Timing set
• Comp Cams Hydraulic camshaft # 35-430-8 224 / 224 duration @ .050 .560 / .560 Lift
• Comp Cams 1.6 to 1 Ratio Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms
• Edelbrock RPM Aluminum fast burn cylinder heads with stainless 2.02 “ valves and hardened locks, chrome moly retainers and HD valve springs.
• Melling high volume oil pump
• Canton baffled road race pan, 8 quart
• 2 quart Accusump pre-oiler surge protector, to be installed
• Edelbrock performer RPM dual Plane intake
• Edelbrock 650 cfm 4 barrel AVS carb with electric choke
• Ford Racing short nose water pump
• Rebuilt radiator
• Stainless coolant tubes
• Aluminum overflow tank
• Aluminum swirl pot to bleed air from coolant (needs to be welded)
• Small diameter Accel billet distributor, accel 300 series electronic Ignition with Accel coil
• Custom headers
• Magnaflow mufflers
• Custom flywheel
• Steel Adapter plate to transaxle
• AP Racing paddle clutch
• SPA AFFF electrically actuated Fire suppression system, 4.0 Liter, to be installed
Required to complete
• Manufacture seat backs, I intended to use folded tig welded aluminum
• Terminate wiring harness
• Safety harnesses
• Mirrors
• Muffler support bracket
• Remote battery disconnect
• Coolant tubes for the front of the motor
• Side windows and firewall window.
• Plus some other things that I can’t quite remember now.
• Install the fun stuff like the Accusump, the foam fire suppression system, etc.
• Align body panels; adjust gaps, body work and paint. If you are afraid of body work then don’t bother.
A serious effort could have the car drive-able in maybe a week. Includes whatever spares and redundant parts I have, extra CV joints, master cylinders, an extra set of rotors, boxes of rivets, AN hardware, an engine hoist, an engine stand, etc..
I think $35,000 is a fair price. Someone with little patience and know how could have a real butt kicking GT-40 Replica for under 40K. The car is in Eastern Mass, outside of Boston at a friend’s house.
Please contact me through the forum
