Allen English RCR40 Turn Key Build

[Allen English]

My car made its first car show this weekend. And my car is home now for the second time since it was delivered from RCR. I have had a run-ability problem where the car seemed to run rich. I had time to think about the problem while the car was at Champion Collision getting the chip protection painted on the front end. When the car got home Saturday I checked out the fuel pressure regulator to see if a vacuum line was hooked up like the instruction state for my system. It was never hooked up, so it looks like my ECU is making the car running rich all of the time. Today I will get the correct barbed fitting for the regulator and install a vacuum line to see if the car will run better. Next week I plan to take it to PRE Racing Performance Race Engineering Online - Home a tuning and Dyno shop to make sure the car is dialed in properly. I hope to have the car completed in the next couple of weeks since it is scheduled to be in a __________ _________ soon. I will fill in the blanks later if we get that far.

The Portland Roadster Show was a flop for us since the car was still in the shop for chip protection, but this next opportunity will exceed that by a mile. :thumbsup:

Here is a picture of my car and John Champion after the down pour at the show today. Oh did I say my car was water tight? NOT!

Link to more pictures from the Sandy Suburban Cruise-In. 2010 Suburban Cruise-In pictures by Allen_English - Photobucket

Mad Max was there :beatnik:

 

[Randy V]

The GT40 looks REALLY small compared to the Camaro next to it!

I have had a run-ability problem where the car seemed to run rich. I had time to think about the problem while the car was at Champion Collision getting the chip protection painted on the front end. When the car got home Saturday I checked out the fuel pressure regulator to see if a vacuum line was hooked up like the instruction state for my system. It was never hooked up, so it looks like my ECU is making the car running rich all of the time. Today I will get the correct barbed fitting for the regulator and install a vacuum line to see if the car will run better. [/IMG]

One thing about typical Individual Runner intake manifolds is that they do not have a common intake plenum for a constant vacuum source.
Not all Fuel Pressure regulators need to be connected to a vacuum source - it's highly dependent upon the installation configuration and whether or not the vehicle needs it to reduce the pressure at lower RPMs to meet emissions.

If you look in the TWM instructions, it says;

"DO NOT connect tube to one individual manifold runner"

This is correct.. If you do connect it to a single runner, you will only get a pulsing vacuum signal.

I would be willing to wager that your current tune is for optimum performance and not for emissions. If you want it to have somewhat less power but have better emissions / street manners, you'll likely have to compromise and possibly reduce the pressure on the fuel rail and alter the tune to inject less fuel.

Bottom line is - You need to understand that asking for a racing engine, will give you a racing engine.
As many others before you have found out - racing engines that are tuned for the track, totally suck on the streets...

 

[Allen English]

I'm referencing page 27 #6 in the install Manuel.

http://www.efiwest.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=tFoQpLetQVI=&tabid=63

 

[Allen English]

I also had the engine built for street use not track use. I was real clear with Keith Craft when I spoke to them. :thumbsup:

 

[Randy V]

I'm referencing page 27 #6 in the install Manuel.

http://www.efiwest.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=tFoQpLetQVI=&tabid=63

Hi Allen,

I checked it out... Your manifold must be one that has some sort of balance channel or lines that run between all 8 intake runners. Apparently there is a port at the rear of the intake manifold where the vacuum signal can be referenced..

Connect the supplied vacuum line into the vacuum fitting on the back of the intake manifold. Run it through the firewall opening (used to run the wiring harness through) and connect to the ECU hose. Used the supplied male-male connector to join the hoses. This will supply a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) signal to the ECU. Use this line to run a vacuum signal (using a supplied plastic t- fitting) to the vacuum reference on the fuel pressure regulator. (15-6)

I still thinking that the tune you need is going to be something less than optimal for HP but better for drivability... You might want to touch base with Bob Cowan on the ffcobra forum. He's got a system similar to yours and did a lot of work to figure out what tun would work best in his FFR Roadster..

What kind of fuel pressure are you carrying on the rail at an idle?

According to the manual here;
http://www.efiwest.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=ZQ3KOzuWv40=&tabid=63

It should be 45 PSI.

Fuel Pressure Regulator
Any vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator that can regulate pressure to a minimum of 40-45psi, can be used. An adjustable regulator is recommended, though not required. Most small block tunes will require fuel pressure of 45 PSI, while most big blocks require 50 psi. Once the system is installed and you are ready to tune you should set the pressure with the car running and the vacuum line disconnected.
You can also use the pressure regulator to make global changes to the tune. By adjusting the fuel pressure higher, you can increase the fuel the engine will receive during all operation condition. To decrease the amount of fuel your engine receives, you can decrease the fuel pressure. It is important to note that once your car has been tuned you should NOT change the fuel pressure.

Hang in there buddy - you'll get it figured out... :thumbsup:

 

[Allen English]

A friend came over and helped me today with the car. We have the fuel lines routed correct now and hooked up the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line after making sure we had 45 pis at idle. We seem to have a lot of popping going on now. The idel is around 900 rpm to 1000 rpm. It seems that the throttle cable may be binding. We have checked the linkage and the engine idles fine when the cable is unhooked. I will be taking my car to a tunner shop next week to have the car dialed in.


We also have a right hand headlight that the painters broke :cry:

 

[Bill Musarra]

Allen,
You are headed in the right direction. There should be a vac line from the manifold to the ECU(pg. 15 fig10-6). That line is T to the line to the fuel regulator. Fig 12-3 on pg 19 shows it. Then these should go to the ECU as you showed in your earlier post. If they don't then the ECU will sense no vacuum and will try to set the injectors to get the optimum flow, which will be all wrong as it is getting no vac signal.
When you do get them hooked up, and the engine is started, it will probably run rich at first. Lots of carbon smoke and smell. The ECU has to "learn" as it runs how to set the parameters to achieve the A/F ratio that is dialed in. The ECU can be dialed in via the computer so you can obtain optimum performance at all throttle positions and environmental conditions. The neat thing is that the ECU will change values based on air temp, altitude, water temp, etc. so you don't have to tune it every time you take a trip to the mountains or the sea shore, winter or summer.
You also have a purple wire(pg 24 Fig13-7) that will allow you to toggle between two different Map setting, one for street, one for track. Their explanation is a little confusing, but I am sure your tunner knows how to set it up. What I like about it is you can drive the car to the track, change the tune with a flip of the switch to run wide open, then when you are ready to go home, flip the switch back and drive home in the "economy" mode.
My FAST setup is somewhat similar, but I have to toggle the maps from a lap top. A little more trouble, but I can have as many maps as I want.

Bill

 

[Allen English]

Bill thanks,

I'm sure that the system has probably learned to run without the vacuum to the regulator and will start learning or adjusting properly now that we are hooked up correctly. One thing I noticed right away was the exhaust doesn't have that blue smoke comming out like it was before.

I did see the two settings and think that it's cool. Now I need to find the right cable to run from my ECU to my computer. I thought I had one, but the ECU hook up is slightly different than the computer end. Any ideas where I can get the right cable and a possible part number?


Thanks

 

[Chuck]

Allen:

I know nothing about FI, but appreciate the Dynatek Manual. Now I can try to study a bit since FI is my long term goal.

It took me a some time and effort to get the gremlins sorted out on our GT. We are just now at the point where we can say there are really no significant issues. That is the nature of a hand built custom car. But today the skys finally cleared and we took another ride in the GT. It drove so well. Tracked straight and true. The exhaust note is delightful. Wind it up to 3500 - 4000 RPM and it really takes off. When you get it all sorted out you will be pleased. I am convinced it takes a good 1000 miles to get everything to the point that you can just hop in and go for a ride with no concerns.

EFI just adds another dimension to the process.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Allen,
If it is a 9 pin D sub serial connector to usb, then one can be gotten at Radio Shack. If that is what you need, check out the price and I will sell you mine at a bargain. It is a Gigaware 6 ft. cable. FAST makes their own. Haven't opened my box with it yet. I have two diag. ports?? Will figure that out when the time comes.

Bill

 

[Allen English]

Hi Bill, Thanks for the info and offer. I couldn't wait for it to be shipped to me as I needed it tomorrow, so I went to Radio Shack and picked a cable up today.

I just got finished replacing all of my fouled plugs and half of my spark plug wires. I had to pick up another set of replacement Keith Craft hi quality wires that cost me an extra $130. While the plugs were out I re-tightened my headers as one exhaust port was leaking and I figured it would be a good idea to go over them all.

The car runs good now and I plan to drive it over to the Dyno either tomorrow or the following day. The popping must have been because of the fouled plugs. :blank:

Hopefully the Dyno guys can get her tuned in short order so I can move on to the other sorting details. I have to have her ready for some track time in a week :lipsrsealed: Not any real racing, but it should be fun if all goes well with the car prep work.

 

[Chris Kouba]

...I have to have her ready for some track time in a week...

Allen,

Where you going and when? Want a second pair of hands?

 

[Allen English]

Hi Chris,

How about I call you this weekend? I may be able to use your help....Thank you.

 

[Chris Kouba]

Absolutely. I should be around and would love to swing by.

 

[Allen English]

Hi Chris,

I work until 5:00 tomorrow and have to pick my car up from Car Toys after work with its new rear view mirror back up camera installed. Will call you in the evening and give you the scoop about next week. I'm sure you will find it interesting.

:thumbsup:

 

[Allen English]

Here is my cars final look......

I added the number (78) and fire marshal decals. This picture was taken a couple of days ago on a test drive. The car drove good and the clutch was smooth. Now I just need to get the engine running right and I will have most of the sorting out done.

I plan to drive the car down the Oregon and California coast line next year if I get her fully sorted out before next summer.

More pictures and video to come.

 

[René]

looks good to me

 

[Randy V]

It truly is a gorgeous car Allen...

 

[Allen English]

Thanks guys.....

I hope the weather gets better here soon. I'm starting to think I should have bought a boat.
Anyway I got on the laptop and did some fine tuning to the engine and need to take the car out for a short drive to see how she acts. If all goes well I will take the car in and get the AC charged. Not that one would need it around here, but we can hope.

Next plan is to attend the Portland Historic Races July 10 & 11th at the Portland International Raceway, 1940 N Victory Blvd. Portland, OR. It looks like Brent Mills will be coming down to join us with his RCR MK IV. So if anyone would like to come by and say hello we will be in the Cascade Cobras Club display during the event.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Allen,
I would like all the nitty gritty on your rear view camera. I am planning to install one on mine as well. Just gathering the info prior to purchase. Some pics of the install would be great. I am considering placing mine on the rear edge of the spider in a scoop type enclosure. Would like all the "numbers" on your setup.

Bill