Walter's RCR40 Build

``From GT40 to GTV": I've spent the summer working on my 1974 Alfa GTV 2000, which I've owned for 30 years now. It's almost done and should be ready for the track again next spring.
Finally I found the time to drive the GT40 and ended up with erratic ignition (a problem in the low tension circuit).
Uphill, I came to a stop, backed off the road and started looking for the cause (it was dark by then). After some wiggling under the dash current was back and I managed to get going. Back home (glad I made it ) I went into the limbo position underneath the steering column (well familiar to all you GT40 owners). Here the removable steering wheel shows its main advantage! I could trace the problem to a loose wire at one of the sockets. So I crimped a new pin for the connector. Seems it's all well and stable now.
I also had to recalibrate the speedo after installing the Driveshaft Shop's racing boots, finally, on all 4 ends. I find this remarkable because the number of pulses per shaft rotation should be determined by the number and shape of bolts. Sofar the boots have held up. They can be seen in the last foto in my previous update. None of the original ones lasted longer than about 1500 miles.
 
First few outings this year. Before, I had to reattach the signal wire to the starter motor. It is a simple push fit (using an insulating rubber plug).

Today I passed the annual inspection and am good to go for another year. I also mounted front wheels with new Avon tires. The old ones had considerable wear on their inside so I'll reduce negative camber a bit - next project up.
 
Also found a broken connector for the brake fluid sensor, easy fix, and then learned the the reservoir needed to be filled all up to the top for the warning light to switch off. Quite different than on my other cars.
 
-3 deg camber LHF was a bit much, -2 deg RHF maybe too for road use :). So I settled for about -1.5 deg. Also dialed in a slight toe-out as I do on most of my cars. It helps going into a turn. Took me quite some time since a wanted the steering wheel perfectly centered. Will see how it feels on the road. At the rear the Avons show little wear so for now I plan to run the old ones.
 

Randy V

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Just a suggestion -
From my past experience, you’d be far happier with the performance of your car on the street with -.5 camber all the way around. Straight line braking performance is also greatly enhanced.
 
Just a suggestion -
From my past experience, you’d be far happier with the performance of your car on the street with -.5 camber all the way around. Straight line braking performance is also greatly enhanced.
Thank you for your interesting input. I may try your suggestion. RCR suggests -1deg for camber in their build manual. In autocross (with front-engined cars) we used -1.5 to -2deg (I guess braking is not important in this business :) ). I'll take it step by step - maybe try the -1 first.
 
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