Darius - RCR GT40 MK1 Build

Rod Dittmar

Supporter
Darius,
Grounding: In order to save space and the amount of wires running front to back, I grounded everything locally to the chassis, including the negative terminal on the battery.

Fuel tank senders: I had to cut the length of my senders to fit and then re-calibrate the gauges to read properly. The guy at Centroid Products was most helpful with that.

Tail light wiring: I ran my wiring from the rear bulkhead alongside the brake & clutch lines on the lower LH side of the chassis. Then across the rear pan to the back where it split Rt to Lft. I used Waytek Weatherpack Connectors for all my exterior connections.

HTH, Rod
 

Darius Rudis

Supporter
Question: When wiring your Switches (for dashboard removal) , how do you disconnect everything?

Example dash:
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A. Remove crimp-connect of each wire from each individual switch? (many single loose wires)
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B. Make a complete harness plug, removing ALL wires at same time? (splice in multi-terminal plug)
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C. Splice in a Weatherpack, one for each switch (2-pin, 4-pin...), and remove many Weatherpack connections? (1 connector per circuit)
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D. Remove each switch from dashboard, remove retaining collar, and leave wiring/switch connected, just remove dash-plate (not switches).
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Darius Rudis

Supporter
Thought I would be a little further along, but did make tremendous strides this Thanksgiving weekend. About 75% in completing Phase-1 (drill holes, run wires, and cut to length, and fast crimp fittings). Then moving to Phase-2 (remove wires, create harness, heat shrink connections, insulation shielding, and grommets for holes...). Content with work completed so far: radiator fans / lights / foglights / turn signals / brakelights / taillights / heat and A/C are done. Mostly about 50% of engine stuff to go...
 

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Nice progress! I'd recommend a few multiple connectors for better organisation and easy servicing later on. Make sure you put the fuse box in a location which is easy to access once the car is completed. Happy building... Check for its location in the original cars.
 

Darius Rudis

Supporter
MSD Wiring question:
~ Can I run TWO wires from single source of 30A 12V relay (key-On) to Power _AND_ Run the MSD iginition (simultaneously, both red wires together). [Instructions say #6 Heavy-Red to Battery, and #4 12v Key Red].
-OR-
~ Must I run #6 30A 12V relay (key-On) to Power, and #4 separate 30A 12V relay (key-On) for Run?

Both wires are 12g (I believe) with distance of 5 feet from relay(s).
p.s. Ignore temporary quick crimp-connect (will redo with proper crimping/heat-shrink/wire-loom/grommets/supporting...)

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Darius Rudis

Supporter
On Jan 01, 2025, to "start" a new year... I STARTED IT UP!!!
Yes, only on Starting Fluid, as I dont want the smelly gasoline odors from the gas tanks, while I start on the bodywork for the next few months.
No video, just photo (for now).
p.s. Yes, it was loud with mufflers sitting on the floor. ;)
 

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Chet Zerlin

Supporter
Darius,

Which wiring kit are you installing?

Also did you get an answer as to how to hook up the three wire sender to the two wire fuel gauge? I've got the same issue...

Thanks!
Chet
 

Steve R

Supporter
On the sender you have switched power, ground and signal. On the gauge you run you sender signal to white and black is ground
 

Steve R

Supporter
You need to send power to the sender from switched power. Depending on how you have you set up. ( mine I have (on)switch which is my switch power to everything i want on.) before i turn on ignition and fuel pumps. Then you just need to send sender wire ( white or yellow by memory) to the white wire on the gauge. ( the 2 wires black and White on the gauge.) The black wires on both the sender unit and the gauge are to be grounded. The red wire on sender unit is switched power. Go to youtube and look up holley laser sender unit and there a bunch of helpfull videos. The fun part is setting it up lol.
 

Steve R

Supporter
If it is the Laser try and set up before you install. Really hard to do after. The youtube videos show you how.
 
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