Harrison's Garage's RCR 40 Build
- Thread starter Harrison's Garage
- Start date
After a long 16 month wait the car has arrived! I was able to get it unloaded and onto the lift yesterday and lower it a few inches for better storage nearer to the ceiling. I plan to begin removal of the front and rear clam tonight and begin taking the suspension components off in the coming days. My plan for the time being is to either powder coat or electroplate the suspension components (any suggestions as to which is superior is welcomed) and bedline the underside of the chassis with thinned raptor liner sprayed through an HVLP gun. Ultimately, I plan to paint the rest of the chassis with satin chassis black before beginning reassembly of the suspension components and beginning the build in earnest. I plan to paint the engine bay with a high temp satin black paint after the engine mounts are installed.
Hopefully once the above is done, I will have received the transaxle and will then be able to move to installing the motor mounts. Photos of delivery day included.
Hopefully once the above is done, I will have received the transaxle and will then be able to move to installing the motor mounts. Photos of delivery day included.
Did you have RCR mount / fit the body? I saw in one of your initial post that you had intended to pay for this option. I ask because a lot of the panels look extremely out of alignment and the body latches are not installed.
Sorry for the delay - I have been out of town for the last week. I did pay RCR for the body fit. Without going into much detail I would say it definitely isn't worth doing. They mounted the body pieces but as you noted, nothing lines up. The doors are hung, but there is a tremendous amount of play in them - so much so that they don't open and close due to them binding up on the spider. The rear clam is mounted but needs to come farther back since the centers of the wheel well archers should be 95" to match the wheel base. Right now, this measurement is 93 7/8". The front clam can't move forward any so I will have to spend a great deal of time adjusting the rear clam backwards a bit.
Naturally, this being a kit car, I would expect some manner of issues with getting the body to fit just right; however, for the $3,000 price tag of the body fit, I would rather start from square one myself. Just my 2 cents.
I did a high lift garage door as well but didn't have it go all the way to my ceiling because I have a table saw outfeed table stored snug up against my ceiling that my garage door needed to clear. My issue isn't currently the garage door but rather the ceiling height. In order to get the lift off the locks, I have to lift it up about an inch and a half to pull the lock release lever before lowering the lift. This essentially forces me to leave the car 2" lower than I'd like but I can live with it.
Much appreciation for the feedback! I also paid RCR for this option as I await delievry of my kit and paid much more than than the price you stated. Your experience is disappointing.
Good luck on the build! I'll be watching closely!
Harrison, do not worry about yhe height of the lift. There is almost no need to access under the car except for the back, to found the good position for the water pipes and to put in place the starter. The entire bottom of the chassis is flat with threaded holes only and all the accessories are bolted from the top or the inside of the chassis. For the rest of the mounting you need about 40 inch from the ground to put everything in place and the advantage is that you may do it on a seat.
Appreciate the input! My main concern for wanting the lift as high as possible isn't tied to working underneath it. As you stated, the car seems like it will require very little work to be done from directly underneath. My main objective with the lift is to get it as high and out of the way as possible so the Mrs. can walk unobstructed underneath it and get in/out of her car without noticing the giant unfinished race car in her way
Life goal
