Darius - RCR GT40 MK1 Build

[Darius Rudis]

Made a LOT of progess. Need to change fitting #7 to a 6" Female/Female hardline, and fix the kink in lower heater-hose.
I also bought all new SS radiator tubing, as 64" in kit wasn't long enough to reach radiator hoses, so I am making them 67", to get more bit on pipe (yes - bead rolling ends). Then ThermoTech wrap before install.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Made a LOT of progess. Need to change fitting #7 to a 6" Female/Female hardline, and fix the kink in lower heater-hose.
I also bought all new SS radiator tubing, as 64" in kit wasn't long enough to reach radiator hoses, so I am making them 67", to get more bit on pipe (yes - bead rolling ends). Then ThermoTech wrap before install.
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Looking good. Maybe too late to make changes now, but I heard that with regards to coolant tubes, 90 degree bends are the equivalent of five feet of straight tube. If you have room, you might want consider 45 degree sweeps. Not sure if this matters with a mechanical water pump.

 

[Rod Dittmar]

Darius,
Have you checked your front clip & nostril installation with all the up front stuff mounted? I had to lower the a/c dryer (or whatever that tubular black thing is called) because of interference with the nostril.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Confirming that I have the DRIER flow in the right DIRECTION ? (Flow IN from Condenser, TO the Evaporator, right?)

 

[Paul T.]

Confirming that I have the DRIER flow in the right DIRECTION ? (Flow IN from Condenser, TO the Evaporator, right?)

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Yes that would be correct.

 

[Darius Rudis]

What are you guys using to cover these "water access points" to the footwell?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Just a heads up. You will not get very good flow to your heater core with those 90 degree fittings at the coolant tubes. Both should be welded in as a "Y" instead of a "T". If you live in a hot climate it may not be an issue.

 

[Michael]

Darius, those holes are not standard for the RCR monocoque, I presume they were drilled by the PO to provide access to the lower forward control arm bolts. I would look for some rubber or plastic cap plugs to seal the holes.

 

[Rod Dittmar]

Michael & Darius,
Info: Those holes came pre-drilled on my RCR40 as delivered in 2021. I don't think there is any other way to get at that bolt head to either tighten or loosen it. To date, I haven't done anything to plug them from the O/S (thanks guys, I've just added another thing to my 'To Do' list). I do have some insulation around them on the I/S.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Darius, those holes are not standard for the RCR monocoque, I presume they were drilled by the PO to provide access to the lower forward control arm bolts. I would look for some rubber or plastic cap plugs to seal the holes.

Those holes were included on my RCR40 free of charge, and they are almost worth it. They need to be enlarged to be useful. It does make assembly easier. I am going to cover mine with some aluminum sheet that is bent to shape and then screwed on at the corners.

 

[Michael]

Hmm, learn something new every day. I will agree those holes can be useful to access the CA bolts, especially once the car is fully assembled, but they’re surely a leakage path for water and air intrusion. Kind of surprised RCR would offer to open those holes without providing engineered covers to seal them.

Btw, I recently needed to reset my lower CA on the passenger side, and I was able to access the forward bolt without the access hole. The driver side for sure would be far more difficult.

 

[Randy V]

I punched those holes back in 2007 and Fran thought it wasn’t a bad idea…

 

[Darius Rudis]

QUESTION: How did you get your wires from battery box to tailight ?
Option#1: In-sight, above frame, along edge, zip-tied to diffuser brace, down to diffuser, near hinge, eventually to taillight?
Option#2: Out-of-sight, inside frame, out the back of frame, onto diffuser, near hinge, eventually to taillight?
Other ideas... ?

 

[Jean-Marc]

You go inside the right (or left) case that is along the engine bloc
Then you go out of the case near the suspension trough the opening.
You pass on the bottom frame that hold in place the back shell, up to the hinge of the shell.
From the hinge, you go inside the shell on left and right.
Put a connector close to the hinge to allow you to remove the shell when necessary.

 

[Walter]

What are you guys using to cover these "water access points" to the footwell?
View attachment 143023

I'd use rubber plugs of this sort: https://www.ebay.at/itm/175951698536 plus suitable sealing compound.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Fuel pump wiring:
Is it okay to "self-gound" ? -OR- Should I run the Negative-Black wire, to a lug (multiple-gound-wires), that then runs to the battery Negative terminal?
Not hard to do either way, just asking...

 

[Michael]

Should be fine to ground locally as long as your chassis is properly grounded to the battery.

 

[Neil]

Fuel pump wiring:
Is it okay to "self-gound" ? -OR- Should I run the Negative-Black wire, to a lug (multiple-gound-wires), that then runs to the battery Negative terminal?
Not hard to do either way, just asking...

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View attachment 143756

As long as you don't "ground" it to a fiberglass panel you should be ok. Don't laugh- it has happened!

 

[Jean-Marc]

Fuel pump wiring:
Is it okay to "self-gound" ? -OR- Should I run the Negative-Black wire, to a lug (multiple-gound-wires), that then runs to the battery Negative terminal?
Not hard to do either way, just asking...

View attachment 143755

View attachment 143756

The best is to use also a rubber bushing under the braket that hold the pump to cut the vibration, but in this case do not forget to add a wire that runs from the pump braket to the frame, under the bushing.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Fuel Sender wiring:
My Speedhut Fuel Gauge only provides 2-wires connection, yet the Sender has 3-wires.
Can you confirm how to wire?
Option-1:
~ Separate 12v power feed to Sender-Red-Pos
~ Gauge-Red-wire to Sender-PINK-Send
~ Gauge-Black-wire to Sender-Black-Neg

Option-2:
~ Gauge-Red-wire to Sender-Red-Pos
~ Gauge-Black-wire to Sender-PINK-Send
~ (no wire) Sender-Black-Neg wire to frame ground (battery ground)

p.s. I tried testing OHM-meter against Sender Pos/Neg/Send connections, but doesnt give variable reading (I think it needs a power source to function), and dont wish to test adding power the wrong way , and backfeeding to the Gauge and breaking it...

It would also really help if I could find the instructions for the Sender... ;( Grrrrr.
https://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=458 (asked for install instructions)

Note to self: Race-Car-Replicas helped me track down the Sender unit company, and I wrote to them for advice. https://www.centroidproducts.com/