Harrison's Garage's RCR 40 Build

[Brian Kissel]

I personally have only installed (8) of the 4 post style hoists. But as the others have said shimming and grout was recommended and the procedure was closely followed with great success.

Regards Brian

 

[Randy Folsom]

Harrison,
A little off the topic of GT40's but your note caught my attention.

In my past life, I was an automobile lift guy - Engineering, Service, Warranty, Product Liability, Manufacturing, Marketing and Sales. Did everything except accounting. My career spanned 45 years in the industry with two of the market leaders. I state this as my qualifications to offer some advice.

The base of the column is designed to sit flat on a surface, not by supports in the four corners. It was always recommended that when a column needed to be shimmed to make it plumb, the area under the column be filled with non-shrinking grout. Right now, you aren't seeing any issues since you don't have any weight on the unit. But once you start to lift a load, the baseplates will begin to bend. The unit will become unstable. Recommend you pack some machine grout under those bases, unless you want the thing to eventually break.

I personally, never liked the concept of un-anchored four-post lifts. They rely on the baseplates deforming until the column itself transmits the load to the concrete surface. The lift wouldn't fall over but in my opinion, wasn't very stable. Anchoring is the right thing to do, but you need to do it correctly or you will create problems for yourself.

Paul

Paul,
Good guidance. Thx much. I am considering a two post lift. It will only be used for cars weighing less than 2,500 lbs. my question is about the thickness of the floor concrete. I see a lot of YouTube videos about cutting the floor and putting in a thicker foundation but there is a lot a variety in the how-to. My question is, assuming I have a well done 4” slab, could I instead weld on larger base plates to the post bottoms to spread out the load? Thx in advance for your thoughts.

 

[Paul Proefrock]

Randy,
Most lifts are designed to work with a 4" thick, 3000psi concrete - the typical floor found in garages and dealerships. Once you've picked a brand and model, ask them for an installation book. That will outline their requirements. I doubt you'll find it any different.

One caution: the anchor bolts need to be away from any seam in the floor and the floor needs to be in sound condition, no cracks.

I am familiar with Rotary Lift (who also own Forward Lifts and Direct Lift), Challenger Lifts and Weaver Lift. They, combined, held over 80% if the automotive lift market. All called for a 4" floor.

Select your supplier and follow their instructions.

Paul

 

[Harrison]

Harrison,
A little off the topic of GT40's but your note caught my attention.

In my past life, I was an automobile lift guy - Engineering, Service, Warranty, Product Liability, Manufacturing, Marketing and Sales. Did everything except accounting. My career spanned 45 years in the industry with two of the market leaders. I state this as my qualifications to offer some advice.

The base of the column is designed to sit flat on a surface, not by supports in the four corners. It was always recommended that when a column needed to be shimmed to make it plumb, the area under the column be filled with non-shrinking grout. Right now, you aren't seeing any issues since you don't have any weight on the unit. But once you start to lift a load, the baseplates will begin to bend. The unit will become unstable. Recommend you pack some machine grout under those bases, unless you want the thing to eventually break.

I personally, never liked the concept of un-anchored four-post lifts. They rely on the baseplates deforming until the column itself transmits the load to the concrete surface. The lift wouldn't fall over but in my opinion, wasn't very stable. Anchoring is the right thing to do, but you need to do it correctly or you will create problems for yourself.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the valued input. I have to say I thought I looked into all possible areas of failure (my main concern was finding an epoxy that was rated for 3.25" deep holes for a 3/4" threaded rod. Red Head CP6+ fit the bill and is rated for way way more than the lift will ever see. So are the threaded rods. I never gave much thought to the base plate deforming.

First a few specs on the lift - it's rated at 7,000 (Chinese) pounds and I only ever plan to have it loaded to 2,500 lbs max (weight of the gt40 and myself). That's approximately 35% of the stated factory capacity. You do bring up a good point though in that the base plates aren't designed to keep the posts from pressing through them; I was just assuming the 3/8" thick steel base plate would be up to the task.

I secured it the way I have because it allowed me to keep the garage flooring tiles in place without much messing about with them. I also thought about cutting the tiles away where the baseplates are and bolting them straight to the concrete floor. If the plates on the base look to be deflecting even a little or I notice even the slightest wobble with the car on it, then you can bet it'll be lowered down directly to the concrete.

For now though I'm hoping the 3/8" thick base plates don't deflect under load, but I will be keeping a keen eye on them when I begin testing the lift under load.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Randy,
Most lifts are designed to work with a 4" thick, 3000psi concrete - the typical floor found in garages and dealerships. Once you've picked a brand and model, ask them for an installation book. That will outline their requirements. I doubt you'll find it any different.

One caution: the anchor bolts need to be away from any seam in the floor and the floor needs to be in sound condition, no cracks.

I am familiar with Rotary Lift (who also own Forward Lifts and Direct Lift), Challenger Lifts and Weaver Lift. They, combined, held over 80% if the automotive lift market. All called for a 4" floor.

Select your supplier and follow their instructions.

Paul

Thank you very much

 

[Harrison]

I've gotten the 4 post lift completed (bolted down). Addressing concerns previously raised, I haven't yet had the need to reinforce the bottom plates on the lift with furring blocks or concrete. I should be hearing from RCR any day now on when they will be shipping the completed kit. Once I receive the car I will load it on the lift and see how the base plates handle the load with the car on the ground prior to lifting it for an extended time. If I need to, my plan will be to source some steel plates and insert them between the baseplates and the floor as needed to support/reinforce the the base plates of the lift in lieu of reinforcing concrete (I want to stay away from concrete since it would be needlessly messy on my floor).

The full "part 2" video on my lift install is below. I got the lift bolted down with Red Head CP6+ adhesive. This was the strongest adhesive I could find; I've got an excerpt of the performance table on the adhesive below as well. Given the grade 5 threaded rod I used, ultimate tension loads of 12,030 pounds (per rod - I've used 16 rods) should be far in excess of what the lift will see.

 

[Dave]

While we wait, I thought I would take this opportunity to ask for your opinion. The biggest internal debate since I began fact finding a year and a half ago was what color scheme to go with. I've since put a few renders together of the two paint schemes I've narrowed it down to. One is the iconic gulf livery and the other is a little less so (Guardsman blue with a singular white stripe) -- Let me know your thoughts!!

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Personally I'd go with the first Gulf livery, Indigo Blue/Orange stripe, I'm not the baby blue type!

 

[Dave]

Hi all,

I've been a member on this forum for a little over a year and a half getting ideas and researching. I initially decided I wanted to try and build a kit car (either a FFR cobra or a GT40) when I found out the price of the kit was within my means. I've always liked car shows and vintage cars but have had a soft spot for the cobra and the 40 since I was a kid. I recall having a wall poster of the cobra in Middle school while also playing Gran Turismo 3 as a kid and being able to blast around in the Gulf version of the 40 in game. I went back and forth for quite a while creating renders of both cars in configurations I thought I'd enjoy and ultimately decided on the 40 after paying RCR a visit in May of 2023. I was quite impressed with there set up; they have also been far more responsive, helpful, and passionate than I ever would have expected - Fran is truly a man who loves what he does.

I officially placed my order with them on 8/28/23 - and so the wait begins. It is my intention to post regular updates here for everything I do along the way along with more in-depth videos of the build on my YouTube channel, Harrison's Garage. It's my intention for the car to be driven 80% on the street and 20% on track so it needs to be quite capable. The setup I've gone with is:

• RCR Deluxe Plus Kit LHD
• 6 point track day cage
• Single nostril (go nose)
• Engine will be from Prestige Motorsports and is a Ford OEM block 347 with 500hp and 450 lb/ft of torque revving to 6,500rpm
• Stainless steel headers to be supplied by RCR
• Transaxle will be a G96/01 refurbished gearbox provided by Fran
• Front Wheels will be 15x8 BRMs wrapped in Pirelli Pzero Asimmetrico 225/50r15s
• Rear Wheels will be 15x12 BRMs wrapped in Pirelli Pzero Asimmetrico 345/35r15s
• I plan to have the RCR +2 suspension and the +4 gulf flares mounted by RCR and customized to cover the shorter 24.5" diameter rear tire
• Front air lift kit
• Panel/body fit done by RCR to install the body panels and doors

All comments, suggestions and advice will be welcomed. This is my first full kit car build though I have enjoyed working on cars and trucks on my channel for the past several years. My current guesstimate as to when the car might be finished is somewhere in the 5 year range given that my wife and I have just had our first child.

-Harrison

I have seen photos of RCR's SS snakes exhause, Beautiful. Men's jewelry!

 

[Dave]

While we wait, I thought I would take this opportunity to ask for your opinion. The biggest internal debate since I began fact finding a year and a half ago was what color scheme to go with. I've since put a few renders together of the two paint schemes I've narrowed it down to. One is the iconic gulf livery and the other is a little less so (Guardsman blue with a singular white stripe) -- Let me know your thoughts!!

View attachment 132140View attachment 132143View attachment 132145View attachment 132144View attachment 132146

The baby blue (don't know the color name) Gulf livery is actually the 2'd gulf colors, I will be doing the original Indigo Blue Gulf Livery on our SPF (completion & delivery spring, 2025)

pictured below

 

[Harrison]

That’s a beautiful set up. I do love that indigo blue. If I go that route it would be with a white racing stripe down the middle. I’m currently still awaiting delivery of my kit. I ordered it in August of ‘23 and am still waiting for it. I was last told end of this month but I’m not holding out much hope for it. It has been delayed 4 times now. I’ve now tempered expectations hoping it will at least arrive by Christmas.

 

[Dave]

That’s a beautiful set up. I do love that indigo blue. If I go that route it would be with a white racing stripe down the middle. I’m currently still awaiting delivery of my kit. I ordered it in August of ‘23 and am still waiting for it. I was last told end of this month but I’m not holding out much hope for it. It has been delayed 4 times now. I’ve now tempered expectations hoping it will at least arrive by Christmas.

Thanks, Harrison. I will keep my fingers & toes crossed to help speed up delivery of your 40! I'm the retired Chief of Arson Investigations for the City of Roseville, MI and the funny part of learning about RCR was the fact that they are located in Fraser, MI, right next to my City! Hell, if I knew that I would have been there all the time LOL. Even before I was able to pull the trigger on my own SPF 40!

 

[Harrison]

Thanks, Harrison. I will keep my fingers & toes crossed to help speed up delivery of your 40! I'm the retired Chief of Arson Investigations for the City of Roseville, MI and the funny part of learning about RCR was the fact that they are located in Fraser, MI, right next to my City! Hell, if I knew that I would have been there all the time LOL. Even before I was able to pull the trigger on my own SPF 40!

You’re quite lucky to live so close. If I did I’m sure I would never have a worry over getting spare parts quickly. I called today and they have said my kit is 1 to 2 weeks from shipping!

 

[Dave]

You’re quite lucky to live so close. If I did I’m sure I would never have a worry over getting spare parts quickly. I called today and they have said my kit is 1 to 2 weeks from shipping!

Yeah! That's fantastic news, do you plan to do a build thread here? I'd follow it!

 

[Harrison]

Yeah! That's fantastic news, do you plan to do a build thread here? I'd follow it!

Yes indeed. That’s what this will be as soon as the car arrives. My very first post on page 1 has all the specs for the build.

 

[Harrison]

Thought I'd provide an update. I ordered the kit almost 15 months ago and am still waiting on it. RCR was delayed quite a bit in finding a new supplier for the fiberglass body as well as with a couple of production runs for movie vehicles. Latest for my kit is that it is done pending the body fit. My tires arrived today and Bill was kind enough to send me a pic fresh off the delivery truck. Hoping to have a picture of them when they return mounted on the wheels tomorrow but we'll see. The tires I'm going with are the Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico in 345/35R15 for the rears and 225/50R15 for the fronts. I know the rears will be a bit short on the diameter but I wanted a modern rubber compound with a high speed rating that fit the vintage 15" BRM style wheels while also being WIDE - I've gone with the gulf rear flares and wanted to ensure they filled up the arches nicely.

 

[Dave]

Thought I'd provide an update. I ordered the kit almost 15 months ago and am still waiting on it. RCR was delayed quite a bit in finding a new supplier for the fiberglass body as well as with a couple of production runs for movie vehicles. Latest for my kit is that it is done pending the body fit. My tires arrived today and Bill was kind enough to send me a pic fresh off the delivery truck. Hoping to have a picture of them when they return mounted on the wheels tomorrow but we'll see. The tires I'm going with are the Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico in 345/35R15 for the rears and 225/50R15 for the fronts. I know the rears will be a bit short on the diameter but I wanted a modern rubber compound with a high speed rating that fit the vintage 15" BRM style wheels while also being WIDE - I've gone with the gulf rear flares and wanted to ensure they filled up the arches nicely.

Would love to see mounted photos!

 

[Harrison]

Just in from RCR this morning - the tires are mounted and bolted to the rolling chassis in preparation for them doing the body fit. The Rear clam also has the Gulf +4" flares mounted as pictured below.

 

[Dave]

Just in from RCR this morning - the tires are mounted and bolted to the rolling chassis in preparation for them doing the body fit. The Rear clam also has the Gulf +4" flares mounted as pictured below.

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Need a better angle to check the rims out plz!

 

[Harrison]

Side profile photos below

 

[Dave]

Side profile photos below

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Harrison, those rear shoes look AWESOME! Thanks for these side view pics & I look forward to photos as your build progresses toward completion!