Keeping heat/noise down inside cabin?

[Eric McClellan]

Hey all,

Hoping to get some ideas on how to keep heat/noise out of the cabin. Been driving mine around for a bit now.

I've seen some plates that guys have made to go from the frame to the body, I can't seem to find the pics anymore... any help?

I have covered a good portion of the car in heat/sound material... floors, bulkhead front and back, gas tank all around...etc.

Ideas and suggestions very welcome

I haven't charged the AC system yet, I had my first casualty... The AC belt jumped and wrapped itself around the crank pulley... that was fun. LOL!

Thanks Amigos!

~Eric

 

[Scott Rowland]

Some jute carpet padding is a good idea too. Really knocks the noise down and is cheap. Look for any holes or openings at all and cover them. I personally will be venting the underside of the rockers where the coolant lines go, along with insulating them. 5-6 3" holes and then cover with something like chicken wire or mesh.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Some jute carpet padding is a good idea too. Really knocks the noise down and is cheap. Look for any holes or openings at all and cover them. I personally will be venting the underside of the rockers where the coolant lines go, along with insulating them. 5-6 3" holes and then cover with something like chicken wire or mesh.

My thought was to cover the area between the body and the aluminum tub (where the cooling lines are) with an aluminum plate covered in heat/sound material.

 

[Scott Rowland]

An air gap will help, but with limited ventilation it will still heat soak. Are you already seeing warm cabin temps? I suggest the holes underneath since it is a great fix on Vipers that have the exhaust running down the sides.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Don't know If it will work/fit your situation, but closed cell foam insulation(big box stores) around those tubes should help the heat soak. I used it on my central tunnel along with some spray foam to fill any gaps that remained. My cabin remains very comfortable. I have not hooked up my A/C since day1. Lots of Dyna mat/pad on any walls that have heat contact. Use one or both.

Bill

 

[A.J. Schreder]

Do the big box stores carry the closed cell insulation for 1.5" coolant pipes? I checked one and 1" ID was the biggest they carried.

Eric, it seems like Allan is the one who did the metal close outs on the tub to seal to the body. I don't remember if it was a post (which I can't find) or a YouTube video (which I don't have time to look for). Hope this helps.

A.J.

 

[Jack]

Alan had a video

 

[Howard Jones]

Cut a strip of 1/8 balsa wood and place between chassis and water pipe. Wood has a very good insulation value. cheap and easy to cut to size. If you want to get high tech cover balsa wood with insulation material such as fiberglass mat.

 

[Warren kreyer]

I used 1 inch thick fiberglass board insulation on engine fire wall works great to stop the heat creeping in.

 

[Stu Coleman]

Only thing I'm able to input is a pic of my insulated coolant pipe.
The only comparative measurement i can comment on is the exhaust. When i had the exhaust installed to achieve required decibel limits for registration it was so quiet in the cabin. Now with the LS7 headers, race cats and 3A racing mufflers back on the exhaust noise is by far the most intrusive noise in the cabin...I can't even hear the fuel pump whirring behind my head any more.

cheers
Stu

 

[Eric McClellan]

So folks, here's the plan....


1. Bought some header wrap and plan on wrapping the coolant tubes on the sides of the car.

2. Use more header wrap on the exhaust pipes from the junction on the LS7 manifold to the exit. Over the pipe and over the mufflers.

3. Make 4' long sections of .040 wall aluminum plate to go from the tub frame section to the body, both sides covered in heat/sound shield.

Thoughts?

 

[Garry 20 B]

I have the interior tub in mine, squeaks like a whores bed on bumpy road, road noise is not to bad, but it is hot, especially if I turn on the oil cooler fans, intercooler fans, radiator fans, you could make pizza on the inside, would be a great food delivery car, the food would always be hot when delivered, but its a race car not a luxury car an still fun to drive.

I raise the doors slightly when driving down the road, brings in fresh air, put air vents in the ceiling, but wouldnt even blow out a match what comes out of them.

 

[Eric McClellan]

is that why you don't run side or rear windows?

 

[Michael Fling]

I have my roof scoop with a fiberglass tunnel back to the engine bay. I will be adding vents inside the cabin from that tunnel...

AVEO AIR MAXI VENT SILVER from Aircraft Spruce

 

[Eric McClellan]

I have my roof scoop with a fiberglass tunnel back to the engine bay. I will be adding vents inside the cabin from that tunnel...




AVEO AIR MAXI VENT SILVER from Aircraft Spruce

Whoa... whoa... whoaaa....









... Whoa.

$125 each? You gotta be kidding.

 

[Jack]

My vote would be for a couple of snapvents in the windows. Much more airflow.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Micheal,
I have a few question about putting vents in the air supply to the engine. I realize there will be some high pressure in front of the scoop when driving, but once the air is in the line, doesn't it then becomes a low pressure area due to the vacuum being pulled by the engine. Is this a correct assumption?? If it is then how are you going to get the air to flow into the cabin?? The cabin is not a low pressure area. Those round vents would seem to be mounted at right angles to the air flow. If that is so, then you will have a venturi effect and air will be drawn out of the cabin and into the vent. What about sound waves from the intake? Lot of question here that I am not sure what the answers are. Are you planning to bifurcate the air scoop?? To me that is the only way you are going to get air to flow into the cabin from that scoop.

Bill

 

[Scott Rowland]

Whoa... whoa... whoaaa....









... Whoa.

$125 each? You gotta be kidding.

The polished ones are on sale now though! AVEO AIR MAXI VENT POLISHED ALUMINUM - 2 INCH from Aircraft Spruce

I was looking at these also. want to put 2 in the roof, then a couple naca ducts in the front that would feed another set in dash. Havn't quite got past how to nicely switch from outside air to the heater/ac vents though. I will not be using the under dash manifold though and mounting my heater length wise so it can be pushed all the way back into pass. footwell. I plan to use all 2" pvc for vent routing. Just havn't figured out a way to easily create the functions of defrost, foot and front, and then shutting on and off fresh air without having 4 dash vents.
Will get to it in time.

 

[Michael Fling]

Micheal,
I have a few question about putting vents in the air supply to the engine. I realize there will be some high pressure in front of the scoop when driving, but once the air is in the line, doesn't it then becomes a low pressure area due to the vacuum being pulled by the engine. Is this a correct assumption?? If it is then how are you going to get the air to flow into the cabin?? The cabin is not a low pressure area. Those round vents would seem to be mounted at right angles to the air flow. If that is so, then you will have a venturi effect and air will be drawn out of the cabin and into the vent. What about sound waves from the intake? Lot of question here that I am not sure what the answers are. Are you planning to bifurcate the air scoop?? To me that is the only way you are going to get air to flow into the cabin from that scoop.

Bill

I am not smart enough to know all of those answers. I do know I can make something simple seem really hard. LOL. The tunnel simply routes to the engine bay... I may have it routed to my cold air induction box. Ram air enters the roof scoop... Bernoulli's equation says that velocity is inversely proportional to pressure. Air velocity will increase in the tunnel. I will simply steal some of it into these vents. Not sure I have all the answers... but I can tell you that these are the same vents that have worked in a similar manner in my airplane. If I ever get this thing finished, I will let you know if it works. Stay tuned... (If it doesn't work it will at least look cool).

 

[Garry 20 B]

I have vents in my ceiling, it wont blow out a match what comes out of it.
I dont run windows,, no air, plus i dont like the feeling of being trapped in the car, electric actuators, but i do have a pull pin that will disconnect the gear rack.

I dont run the rear window, just one more thing id have to clean, I drive mine all the time, just about every day it dont rain, but i have been caught in the rain, dont bother anything, and the wiper does work good, rear in that area is very cool, even had to put a turbo blanket on, turbo wasnt getting hot enough. Motor runs 170-180, only in stand still traffic i turn the radiator fan on, and unless im under boost, the intercooler and oil fans usually dont run either, but it is hot in the car when its 80+ outside.