Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
T70 Replica Project on Ebay
- Thread starter awatkins
- Start date
Is the subject of this thread
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/lola-t70-lounge/25438-my-lola-would-you-pissed-off-i-am.html
the same car?
I reckon so, if you need convincing look at the shape of the front wheel arches in the side view.
Cheers
Fred W B
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/lola-t70-lounge/25438-my-lola-would-you-pissed-off-i-am.html
the same car?
I reckon so, if you need convincing look at the shape of the front wheel arches in the side view.
Cheers
Fred W B
Yes to all those who pm'd me... it my old car and he did not pay anything near,close what I sold it for. I sold it's for a steal. It now was mearly for making a profit and not for the love of cars. His reserve / profit is insane if somone buys it for the reserve price compared what I sold it for. But this is America!
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John:
Just to set the record straight… If you read any of my posts in the Lola Lounge as to the cost to finish this project & ground clearance being less than a real GT40 (which I have first hand experience with) You might have a different tone… That NOT with standing, I told you about all of this when you emailed me two days ago, a day after I listed the auction on eBay.
Some of these I even discussed with you in person when I bought the car 8+ months ago????
So you know full well the situation of this sale, prior to you uploading this hurtful post?
And you still post garbage like this?
I would never assume the worst of someone (especially in this economy) as being a money grubbing whore, much less go to the trouble to make public accusations like what you wrote.
What if the sale was forced for any one of the following reasons?
1) My mother died and I have to pay for the funeral.
2) My wife has cancer and we need money for medical bills.
3) I need to pay my mortgage or lose my house.
4) I came to my senses and need to sell something to pay for my kid’s college education.
Do you need a few more examples?
None of the above reasons are why I am selling the car… As I told you… after 8 months of research, not only did it not look like I had the adequately funds or skills to do justice to a Lola project of this scope. To be 100% honest the nail in the coffin was the fact that no matter what I do or how I configure this car there is serious question as to if it can ever be made 100% legal to drive in the state where I live, which is after all the whole point of having any car.
So I am looking for a more practical project and letting someone else have a chance to make their dream car out of this.
As for the reserve… Did you even read the auction? I have made it clear from the beginning that this will likely go to the highest bidder… I also make it clear that I not only do not know the actual current market value, but also would like to get maximum value for it. This is not being an American, it is basic common sense anywhere on the planet. At least I was up front about it. I even tell everyone what the reserve is???
How does this all make me a scum bag?
I am not thin skinned by any means, but I ask all of you reading John’s post above… Is there anything more offensive to a Gear Head than what he is accusing me of? It would have been less offensive to question my sexuality than to attack me as he did.
I will not bore you with my life long car experience… Suffice it to say… I remember being in the Tampa Bay Airport Terminal in 1975 when I heard the news that Mark Donohue died. I was 15 years old at the time. I am 50 years old now…
So this clearly means something to me.
Bottom line is… I just posted a car for sale… If anyone does not want to bid or pay the reserve price they do not have to. I am NOT the one driving the price up.
I cannot say the same for you John! Here you complain about the outrageous reserve price, yet you are the one driving it up in value currently you have 13+ bids all over $16,000.00 and you are still the currently the high bidder @ $24,700.00+?
One has to ask… Are you really looking to buy the car back or just messing with the auction?
If you wanted to buy the car back you might have contacted me (as you have had my e-mail and phone# for 8+ months) for a private deal. As I only paid you $15,000.00 for the car and I do not need the money, I likely would have cut you a deal (as a Fellow Gear Head & Previous Owner) for $18,500.00… But now with bidding going so high (your fault), why would anyone end an auction with this kind of action?
At this point given your incredible unkindness towards me and public accusations in a Forum to which I belong… Why would anyone want to cut you a deal?
As you know by now, I can drop the reserve down to make an immediate sale at any point. Meaning… do you really have $24,700.00+ to honor your bids?
Lastly… as I recall… I did NOT hold a gun to your head when I flew 1800+ mile to see the car in person and buy it.
I have a 100% clear conscious in this… Do you?
Regards
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[email protected]
760-728-7079
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Just to set the record straight… If you read any of my posts in the Lola Lounge as to the cost to finish this project & ground clearance being less than a real GT40 (which I have first hand experience with) You might have a different tone… That NOT with standing, I told you about all of this when you emailed me two days ago, a day after I listed the auction on eBay.
Some of these I even discussed with you in person when I bought the car 8+ months ago????
So you know full well the situation of this sale, prior to you uploading this hurtful post?
And you still post garbage like this?
I would never assume the worst of someone (especially in this economy) as being a money grubbing whore, much less go to the trouble to make public accusations like what you wrote.
What if the sale was forced for any one of the following reasons?
1) My mother died and I have to pay for the funeral.
2) My wife has cancer and we need money for medical bills.
3) I need to pay my mortgage or lose my house.
4) I came to my senses and need to sell something to pay for my kid’s college education.
Do you need a few more examples?
None of the above reasons are why I am selling the car… As I told you… after 8 months of research, not only did it not look like I had the adequately funds or skills to do justice to a Lola project of this scope. To be 100% honest the nail in the coffin was the fact that no matter what I do or how I configure this car there is serious question as to if it can ever be made 100% legal to drive in the state where I live, which is after all the whole point of having any car.
So I am looking for a more practical project and letting someone else have a chance to make their dream car out of this.
As for the reserve… Did you even read the auction? I have made it clear from the beginning that this will likely go to the highest bidder… I also make it clear that I not only do not know the actual current market value, but also would like to get maximum value for it. This is not being an American, it is basic common sense anywhere on the planet. At least I was up front about it. I even tell everyone what the reserve is???
How does this all make me a scum bag?
I am not thin skinned by any means, but I ask all of you reading John’s post above… Is there anything more offensive to a Gear Head than what he is accusing me of? It would have been less offensive to question my sexuality than to attack me as he did.
I will not bore you with my life long car experience… Suffice it to say… I remember being in the Tampa Bay Airport Terminal in 1975 when I heard the news that Mark Donohue died. I was 15 years old at the time. I am 50 years old now…
So this clearly means something to me.
Bottom line is… I just posted a car for sale… If anyone does not want to bid or pay the reserve price they do not have to. I am NOT the one driving the price up.
I cannot say the same for you John! Here you complain about the outrageous reserve price, yet you are the one driving it up in value currently you have 13+ bids all over $16,000.00 and you are still the currently the high bidder @ $24,700.00+?
One has to ask… Are you really looking to buy the car back or just messing with the auction?
If you wanted to buy the car back you might have contacted me (as you have had my e-mail and phone# for 8+ months) for a private deal. As I only paid you $15,000.00 for the car and I do not need the money, I likely would have cut you a deal (as a Fellow Gear Head & Previous Owner) for $18,500.00… But now with bidding going so high (your fault), why would anyone end an auction with this kind of action?
At this point given your incredible unkindness towards me and public accusations in a Forum to which I belong… Why would anyone want to cut you a deal?
As you know by now, I can drop the reserve down to make an immediate sale at any point. Meaning… do you really have $24,700.00+ to honor your bids?
Lastly… as I recall… I did NOT hold a gun to your head when I flew 1800+ mile to see the car in person and buy it.
I have a 100% clear conscious in this… Do you?
Regards
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Michael,
I am pretty sure that, assuming you have all of the necessary receipts from John (chassis construction, body molding and work, engine, transaxle and wheel purchase, etc.), you should have no problem registering this replica under SB100 since that is what it is - a replica.
Ian
Ian
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Actually the reason I only paid $15K was that I could not get any real information out of John. Getting information was like pulling teeth. I must have asked 30+ questions (asking the same ones several times) and either getting no response or very vague answers. When I asked about who built the chassis and when, the response I got was: "A professional Daytona Coupe Guy". I basically just gave up asking as I know quality when I see it. Obviously the more information, the more confidence the buyer has and thus the more money. As for SB100... Thanks but, it is more complicated than that... SB100 is limited to 500 per year and it is first come first serve. So the first 500 requests for SB100 / the smog / EPA exemption are all gone in the first 50 minutes on the first business day in January of each year. So bottom line is I might have to sit on a $60K+ project for years never knowing if I will be one of the lucky 500. Also it is not necessarily a permanent ongoing option. Even if you get the SB100 paper you still have to get the vehicle to qualify / pass inspection for all safety features. CHP has a minimum height and minimum ground clearance now which I think we might be able to accommodate, but it is really close. Additionally the car has to go to the referee station / the BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) and they require street legal distributors (no problem), CA street legal / DOT air cleaners (which means no webers, unless your run a huge air box on top), among others. So the cool look for a Lola T70 spyder becomes at risk...
Lastly YES the documents for SB100 are required... John gave me nothing... so I have ZERO proof of the build...
As you can tell from the above post… John is not the easiest person to deal with.
Best
Michael
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Lastly YES the documents for SB100 are required... John gave me nothing... so I have ZERO proof of the build...
As you can tell from the above post… John is not the easiest person to deal with.
Best
Michael
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John: AKA oliver350 on eBay
Just FYI... I lowered the reserve to $30,202.00 so unless you really want to buy the car you might want to stop bidding it up.
You are at $30,100.00 now???
Just FYI... I lowered the reserve to $30,202.00 so unless you really want to buy the car you might want to stop bidding it up.
You are at $30,100.00 now???
Ian
<FONT color=black><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comActually the reason I only paid $15K was that I could not get any real information out of John. Getting information was like pulling teeth. I must have asked 30+ questions (asking the same ones several times) and either getting no response or very vague answers. When I asked about who built the chassis and when, the response I got was: "A professional Daytona Coupe Guy". I basically just gave up asking as I know quality when I see it. Obviously the more information, the more confidence the buyer has and thus the more money. As for SB100... Thanks but, it is more complicated than that... SB100 is limited to 500 per year and it is first come first serve. So the first 500 requests for SB100 / the smog / EPA exemption are all gone in the first 50 minutes on the first business day in January of each year. So bottom line is I might have to sit on a $60K+ project for years never knowing if I will be one of the lucky 500. Also it is not necessarily a permanent ongoing option. Even if you get the SB100 paper you still have to get the vehicle to qualify / pass inspection for all safety features. CHP has a minimum height and minimum ground clearance now which I think we might be able to accommodate, but it is really close. Additionally the car has to go to the referee station / the BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) and they require street legal distributors (no problem), CA street legal / DOT air cleaners (which means no webers, unless your run a huge air box on top), among others. So the cool look for a Lola T70 spyder becomes at risk...
Lastly YES the documents for SB100 are required... John gave me nothing... so I have ZERO proof of the build...
As you can tell from the above post… John is not the easiest person to deal with.
Best
Michael
</o
Michael,
The speed at which SB100 certs "fly out the door" has drastically slowed down. I believe that even this year, there were numbers still available in June. ITG makes some nice inline air cleaners which may be smog legal, and K&N has some cleaners that install on pairs of throats so that you have 4 smaller cleaners. But, I do not believe that one is required. If you do the paperwork correctly, and try to register based on body type, and go with 1965 as the year, you only need to meet the smog requirements for 1965. So, while all of the equipment might require smog legal stickers (and I stress the word "might"), an air cleaner may not be necessary. Same with the distributor. I believe that those became required in 1966. All that is required for 1965 is probably a closed crankcase and PCV. 1966 brought in stock air cleaner, stock carb, and stock dizzy.
But, yeah, paperwork is the biggest problem. The CHP wants to make sure that the parts were not stolen form somewhere else, and the DMV wants numbers so that they can collect their fees/taxes. SB100 is really the least of your worries.
Ian
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Michael -- This is simply not true. I got my SB100 number in late November of last year. As for numbers, all I had to show DMV was a receipt for the roller, one for the engine, one for the transaxle, and my own total for the miscellaneous parts and my own labor. And as for air cleaners, etc., you do what you need to in order to pass, and whether you leave them on is up to you. There are no followup inspections.
Also, John revealed in another thread who the builder is, and they appear to still be around: http://www.allprocars.com/web/about.html I suspect they could help you with receipts, etc.
I'm not trying to talk you out of selling; I just hate to see you make a decision on bad info. Furthermore, having all this SB100 stuff straightened out makes what you are selling more valuable and easier to sell in CA.
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Alan
Thanks... You know how any Gov office is... bad info most of the time... good to know SB100 certs are more available... Is it true you have 3 months to complete the process? I would love to keep it if I can be 100% sure it is not just a ecerzie in futility... I did talk to Lee the other day when he contacted me... Super guy as well and has patterns for MK2 & 4 GT40 hubs... so mine are repros for sure... I also got a message form a guy on ebay who has a few Pantera parts cars... one with a clean pre 74 title even though wrecked... so maybe I can do this after all on a budget... what do you know about CA / Fed and my removing parts of the Pantara and grafting them to the chassis along with VIN and ID tags to make this a re-bodied Pantera? Which would solve a lot of issues and no SB100 needed?
Thanks...
Michael
[email protected]
Thanks... You know how any Gov office is... bad info most of the time... good to know SB100 certs are more available... Is it true you have 3 months to complete the process? I would love to keep it if I can be 100% sure it is not just a ecerzie in futility... I did talk to Lee the other day when he contacted me... Super guy as well and has patterns for MK2 & 4 GT40 hubs... so mine are repros for sure... I also got a message form a guy on ebay who has a few Pantera parts cars... one with a clean pre 74 title even though wrecked... so maybe I can do this after all on a budget... what do you know about CA / Fed and my removing parts of the Pantara and grafting them to the chassis along with VIN and ID tags to make this a re-bodied Pantera? Which would solve a lot of issues and no SB100 needed?
Thanks...
Michael
[email protected]
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
OK, I forgot to mention that back in April I called DMV Sacramento and was told in no uncertain terms that the SB100 numbers were gone for the year. So you can't trust any informal information from DMV at all. One tip is to deal with the San Clemente office; they are connected somehow with the author of the original SB100 bill and know the ropes completely. I tried a San Diego office and got a completely nonsensical response and so turned right around and drove to SC, based on info from ClubCobra.com.
As for 3 months, I hope not because I'm already 9 months along and not done yet. :embarassed:
Mike, my statement was not in spite. I was responding to the may emails about the car from interested parties. If you get more for it Great God-bless. However you post was simply a lie and wrong.
Your comment.. Actually the reason I only paid $15K was that I could not get any real information out of John!
You came to see the car. Took 30+ photo's given all the receipts from the builder ALLPRO CARS LTD. After you talked to your builder you bought the car. You also saw the build pictures on the LOLA website. So you statement that you bought it for my price is simply hurtful and not true. After inspecting the car you still bought it. So don't lie and state you only paid 15 grand for no information. I could see this statement being true if you did not see the car, So your entire post made it clear your intentions trying de-rail the sale of my GT40. I'm in no hurry to sell it. As for scott comments...No comment ! Good luck with the sale
Your comment.. Actually the reason I only paid $15K was that I could not get any real information out of John!
You came to see the car. Took 30+ photo's given all the receipts from the builder ALLPRO CARS LTD. After you talked to your builder you bought the car. You also saw the build pictures on the LOLA website. So you statement that you bought it for my price is simply hurtful and not true. After inspecting the car you still bought it. So don't lie and state you only paid 15 grand for no information. I could see this statement being true if you did not see the car, So your entire post made it clear your intentions trying de-rail the sale of my GT40. I'm in no hurry to sell it. As for scott comments...No comment ! Good luck with the sale
Michael,
I would be very wary going that route. Moving VIN and ID tags from chassis to chassis can be very risky, and you risk losing the car. Also, at that point, you would have to meet 1974 smog requirements, which are going to be much stricter than 1965 and 1966. Basically, you are trading one set of issues for another. You will still need the paperwork for the chassis and body so the CHP can verify none of the parts are stolen. And, if you have that paperwork, than you have most of what you need for SB100. Basically, either route, you need paperwork for all of the parts. Really, if you have paperwork for the body, chassis, engine and transaxle in hand, then you are probably better off getting the SB100. Oh, and the reality is, if the Pantera has been reported for dismantling already, and you rebody it, you still need to get an SB100 registration.
Here is a good How To for SB100:
http://home.thegrid.net/~ffr4776/SB100_Registration.pdf
Ian
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John
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I am completely done with your nonsense... I stand 100% by EVERYTHING I wrote. Your story is full of holes as is your head... Yes, I am calling you out on this...
So what story do you want to tell us all about your 16+ bids to $30K... Oh just so everyone knows John just RETRACTED all his bids above $26K on the ebay auction for the Lola. Now you have the balls to claim I am trying to derail your GT40 sale? What planet do you live on? I would call you a total tool except that would be an insult to tools.<o></o>
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Write what you want about me, but the FACTs are clear as day to everyone. You are the one posting phony bids on my auction, I have done nothing to you other than pay you money for a car which likely helped you out of a hole. Do us all a favor and crawl back to the hole and stay there.<o></o>
<o></o>
As far as I am concerned you are not worth the time it takes to pick my nose, nor the stuff that comes out of it. So I will not bother responding...<o></o>
<o></o>
Blah, Blah, Blah...<o></o>
<o></o>
Now to be 100% fair... I did see John's GT40 and it is a very nice car... Again coming from someone who grew up around a real one... I have no idea what he wants for it, nor do I care. Oh by the way... We bought #1059 in 1975 for $16,500.00 and my dad sold it in 2005 (I recall) for $385,000.00... maybe John you would like to complain about that profit too.<o></o>
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Goodbye <o></o>
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ESBATMADMF<o></o>
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Not So Sincerely<o></o>
<o></o>
Michael<o></o>
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o
></o>I am completely done with your nonsense... I stand 100% by EVERYTHING I wrote. Your story is full of holes as is your head... Yes, I am calling you out on this...
So what story do you want to tell us all about your 16+ bids to $30K... Oh just so everyone knows John just RETRACTED all his bids above $26K on the ebay auction for the Lola. Now you have the balls to claim I am trying to derail your GT40 sale? What planet do you live on? I would call you a total tool except that would be an insult to tools.<o
></o><o
></o>Write what you want about me, but the FACTs are clear as day to everyone. You are the one posting phony bids on my auction, I have done nothing to you other than pay you money for a car which likely helped you out of a hole. Do us all a favor and crawl back to the hole and stay there.<o
></o><o
></o>As far as I am concerned you are not worth the time it takes to pick my nose, nor the stuff that comes out of it. So I will not bother responding...<o
></o><o
></o>Blah, Blah, Blah...<o
></o><o
></o>Now to be 100% fair... I did see John's GT40 and it is a very nice car... Again coming from someone who grew up around a real one... I have no idea what he wants for it, nor do I care. Oh by the way... We bought #1059 in 1975 for $16,500.00 and my dad sold it in 2005 (I recall) for $385,000.00... maybe John you would like to complain about that profit too.<o
></o><o
></o>Goodbye <o
></o><o
></o>ESBATMADMF<o
></o><o
></o>Not So Sincerely<o
></o><o
></o>Michael<o
></o>
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
I called DMV today and asked if there were a time limit on the completion of an SB100/SPCN registration once you have a TIN and an SB100 Sequence number. She went away to her supervisor and came back to say "You have two years."
I think the rumors about 3 months are referring to the fact that Temporary Operating Permits (TOP) comes in 30-90 day lengths, and that typically you get only two of those before they want you to be street licensed. That is a different issue entirely since it governs how long you can drive on the street without a plate.
There is an interesting twist that is recent: after the first DMV visit, the next step is a brake and light inspection. As of recently DMV gives only one-day TOPs since it occurred to them that authorizing people to drive legally for 30-90 days without lights or brakes might not be a good idea. :idea:
However, it leaves us DIY builders with a problem, namely, the day you take your newly completed car to the brake and light station is the first day it has ever driven legally on the street. Now, I don't have a private test track on my 1/4 acre property so I have a decision to make: do I try to get all my on-street testing done on the one appointed morning, or do I trailer the car to the brake and light test? (B&L is an inspection and does not involve operating the vehicle under power). Haven't decided yet. But fire-it-up and drive day is coming soon....
After you have your B&L you can get a normal 30/60/90 TOP.
