S2's Build Thread

Neil

Supporter
Come on Neil the whole car is dangerous. This is about boys and their toys. I personally love the range of innovation that individual builders incorporate into their personal builds. My car is very basic and its a blast to drive. That being said If I could afford the time and money to do a top level car I certainly would do it ( Or if I hit the lottery will do it ;))
Of course there is always some degree of risk but don't make it inevitable.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
There is much to be said for simplicity. Complexity begets unreliability and if a critical system fails, will it be dangerous?

LOL - Neil, you never fail to point out that something might go wrong with technology. Do you only fly on airplanes with carbureted engines or do you fly on jets? If the later, how do you look past all of the exotic materials and complex systems that might fail?

While something can be said about simplicity, a lot more can be said about this technology. It improves braking, acceleration and cornering while also providing a comfortable ride on the street. That’s pretty much the Holy Grail for a street/track SL-C. Here’s what Johannes van Overbeek said about TracTive.

Having spent over 20 years in professional sports car racing and having the good fortune to work with some of the best teams and winning races like the 24 hours of Daytona, 12 hours of Sebring (2x) and the Petit Le Mans (2x) I have driven on nearly every damper you could name.

As I learned about TracTive it was clear they have a completely different technology than anybody else in the market. Driving it for the first time was a revelation. You really could, finally, have the best of both worlds. A car that was compliant on the road and an animal on the track.

If there is such a thing as horsepower for the corners, this is it.

I finally have the vast majority of the CNC parts for the rear suspension upgrade. The only stock part is the lower control arm, everything else has been completely replaced. Improvements include semi-active dampers, shim-adjustable camber, improved bell crank ratio, lowered roll center, improved anti-dive, improved rotor cooling, no binding of the push rod and upper control arm, and the ability to easily switch the bell crank ratio between Street and Track mode which changes both the ride height and wheel rate. All of he parts are machined from 7075 which is closer in strength to mild steel than 6065.

Untitled.jpg



Rear Upright 01.jpg

Right rear upright viewed from the engine compartment side. The top piece is the upright bracket which allows shims to be slid between it and the upright to facilitate easy/predictable camber adjustment. The extension on the top right is for the toe link. This is cleaner that the stock approach and provides more room for big brakes. The bracket on the left is for motor-on-caliper parking brakes.

Rear Upright 02.jpg

The seam at the top with the horizontal bolts is where the camber shims are inserted. There are none shown.

Rear Upright 03.jpg

Right rear upright viewed from the tire side. The four tapped holes on the outer edge are for a carbon fiber brake duct cover.
 
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Scott

Lifetime Supporter
During my last trip to the Bay Area I got a ride in Mesa’s SL-C. It’s a unique and outstanding build which gave me a case of tire envy — his 405s make my 345s look emaciated.
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During my most recent visit I invited him to watch Fleet Week from our deck. As you’d expect, the Blue Angels were outstanding. If you ever get a chance to watch it from a roof deck there, it’s worth it. In years past they’ve flown even closer to the buildings, but it’s still a visceral experience because it’s loud enough to feel. The vibrations were setting car alarms off, some of which you can hear at the end of the video.

The pictures and video below were taken on an iPhone and with all of the glare on the screen it was impossible to determine if the planes were in the frame. There were lots of flybys, but most of my video was of open sky… so the following is the best we managed to capture.

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LOL - Neil, you never fail to point out that something might go wrong with technology. Do you only fly on airplanes with carbureted engines or do you fly on jets? If the later, how do you look past all of the exotic materials and complex systems that might fail?

While something can be said about simplicity, a lot more can be said about this technology. It improves braking, acceleration and cornering while also providing a comfortable ride on the street. That’s pretty much the Holy Grail for a street/track SL-C. Here’s what Johannes van Overbeek said about TracTive.



I finally have the vast majority of the CNC parts for the rear suspension upgrade. The only stock part is the lower control arm, everything else has been completely replaced. Improvements include semi-active dampers, shim-adjustable camber, improved bell crank ratio, lowered roll center, improved anti-dive, improved rotor cooling, no binding of the push rod and upper control arm, and the ability to easily switch the bell crank ratio between Street and Track mode which changes both the ride height and wheel rate. All of he parts are machined from 7075 which is closer in strength to mild steel than 6065.

View attachment 142742


View attachment 142746
Right rear upright viewed from the engine compartment side. The top piece is the upright bracket which allows shims to be slid between it and the upright to facilitate easy/predictable camber adjustment. The extension on the top right is for the toe link. This is cleaner that the stock approach and provides more room for big brakes. The bracket on the left is for motor-on-caliper parking brakes.

View attachment 142748
The seam at the top with the horizontal bolts is where the camber shims are inserted. There are none shown.

View attachment 142749
Right rear upright viewed from the tire side. The four tapped holes on the outer edge are for a carbon fiber brake duct cover.
these parts are amazing.
 
During my last trip to the Bay Area I got a ride in Mesa’s SL-C. It’s a unique and outstanding build which gave me a case of tire envy — his 405s make my 345s look emaciated.
View attachment 143291

View attachment 143292

During my most recent visit I invited him to watch Fleet Week from our deck. As you’d expect, the Blue Angels were outstanding. If you ever get a chance to watch it from a roof deck there, it’s worth it. In years past they’ve flown even closer to the buildings, but it’s still a visceral experience because it’s loud enough to feel. The vibrations were setting car alarms off, some of which you can hear at the end of the video.

The pictures and video below were taken on an iPhone and with all of the glare on the screen it was impossible to determine if the planes were in the frame. There were lots of flybys, but most of my video was of open sky… so the following is the best we managed to capture.

View attachment 143293

View attachment 143294

View attachment 143295

seeing them from that vantage point must have been incredible. totally new experience to be at their level. and so close.
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
I’ve been spending a massive amount of time working on the electrical system. I’ve retained a high-end German firm to design and manufacture a motorsport harness that will subsume the pile of sub harnesses that I have. More about them later.

Stefan was able to squeeze a one-week trip to Boston between the Rolex 24 at Daytona and testing at Sebring. We figured out where to mount all of the devices and he took measurements for the harness. He was adamant that all critical electronics must have vibration isolation. Apparently the flat-plane cranks in the LMP cars and certain tracks are really tough on even motorsport electrical components.

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What’s better than a shop dog? Two shop dogs. Stefan hard at work.

The bracket below utilizes three vibration isolators to mount the dual Lambda to CAN module. Note that the automotive connector on the middle wire has been snipped off. It will be replaced with a bulkhead motorsport connector that mounts to the vertical tab on the bracket.

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MoTeC LTCD and stainless steel bracket with three rubber vibration-dampening sandwich mounts

Three small tabs were welded to the chassis cross brace. They’re small and located on curve of the tube making it difficult to align them perfectly and prevent them from moving during welding. To solve that challenge I made a jig composed of a fixturing plate and six aluminum spacers. The fixturing plate had to be wide enough to span the apex of the tubes. Once it was clamped to the bottom of the brace it held everything in place.
bracket_02.jpg

Welding jig: fixture plate, six spacers, bracket and three weld tabs

There’s a lot of electronics in the footbox; engine ECU, three PDMs, active damper ECU, two dual H-Bridges, EPAS ECU, parking brake ECU, etc., all of which need to be isolated.

Given how tight things are in the footbox, I designed two stainless steel brackets that utilize four vibration-isolating sandwich mounts. The left one mounts two PDMs and the right mounts the engine ECU and a PDM. Considering that those four devices run about $11k, it’s cheap insurance. In addition, the isolators have studs sticking out which makes it easy to mount the plate and they raise the devices 1/2” above the mounting surface which makes it easier to attach / detach the connectors.

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Devices mounted to the right-side plate, empty left-side pate and a vibration-dampening sandwich mount

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The plates are mounted to the side of the footbox behind the side impact bar sub frame. They are easily accessible and will eventually be hidden by a carpeted closeout panel
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Unfricking believable the amount of time and dedication you have put into this to have everything absolutely perfect. The quality of this build exceeds anything I have seen in many many years. Congrats on the build, and please keep the information and pictures coming.
Thank You for posting Scott. I look forward to each update.

Regards Brian
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
The next step in the rear suspension upgrade was to replace everything except the lower control arm (e.g., the uprights, suspension brackets, upper control arms and rockers). The stock rockers are composed of six machined parts and six screws whereas the new rockers are machined from a single piece of 7075 aluminum. I’ve had the suspension apart many times and it was always a bit of a challenge to install the rod ends and misalignment spacers, but the tight tolerances and misalignment bushings that insert into the rod end rather than misalignment spacers that must be carefully aligned and often fall to the floor simplify the process. My contribution to the design was the addition of an integral mounting point for the anti-roll bar link. I had spent a lot of time fabricating a solution that bolted to the stock rockers, but this is more elegant and requires no additional parts.

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From left to right; suspension mode adjuster, rocker, misalignment bushings, rear damper center bracket and camber adjustment shim

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The mounting point for the sway bar link is located in the top left of rocker shown above

The stock suspension has a bit of a mismatch between the front 1.57:1 and rear 2:1 wheel:damper ratios. IMO, the crazy high rear spring rates that some people are running are due to this discrepancy and the need to have enough stiffness for the track. To address this, the new rocker has a Suspension Mode Adjuster that enables you to quickly change the ride height and motion ratio between Street Mode and Track Mode. The rocker’s Street Mode motion ratio is 1.5:1 which is close to the stock front 1.57:1 ratio. Track mode changes the rocker’s ratio to 1:1 which increases the wheel rate and reduces the ride height by 20mm (~0.8”). The suspension analysis software indicates a 500 lb. rear spring rate which, when combined with the semi-active dampers, should provide a comfortable ride on the street and aggressive handling on the track.

The Suspension Mode Adjuster captures the pushrod’s rod end. The parts are nicely machined with tight tolerances. I had to hit it with a polishing wheel to get everything to fit perfectly. Changing the suspension mode is easy; air jack the car, jack the lower control arm to remove the load on the push rod, remove the push rod’s bolt, pivot the adjuster and replace the bolt. Since all of the parts are captured by the adjuster and the rocker has built in stops there’s nothing to fall on the floor and there are zero alignment issues.

Unfortunately, the front suspension isn’t pushrod based, so Track Mode will be implemented by preloading the front anti roll bar. I’ll do another post about that mechanism when it’s finished.

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Right rear upright viewed from the engine compartment side. The top piece is the upright bracket which allows shims to be slid between it and the upright to facilitate easy/predictable camber adjustment. The extension on the top right is for the toe link. This is cleaner that the stock approach and provides more room for big brakes. The bracket on the left is for motor-on-caliper parking brakes.

The rear roll center was 70 mm (2.8”) too high and the anti-squat was a little too aggressive. This was addressed via a combination of the previously posted custom uprights and CNC-machined brackets to adjust the locations of the lower control arm and toe link rod ends. The location of the bolts that mount to the billet chassis pieces couldn’t be moved and their heads were colliding with the rod ends. The solution was to use motorsport rod ends which increased clearance and to machine the low-profile hex-to-counter-sink adapters shown below to recess the bolt heads. Lowering the roll center reduces jacking forces and improves handling and the decreased anti-squat provides a slight improvement in traction and significantly more feel for what the rear is doing under acceleration.

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The brackets for one side of the rear suspension; from left to right: forward lower control arm, rear lower control arm, toe link and toe link spacer. The toe link spacer improves bump steer. The bottom three are low-profile hex-to-counter-sink adapters.

In the stock suspension the pushrod binds on the upper control arm at full droop and the improved geometry exacerbates that issue. The binding isn’t that bad when you’re slowly raising the car via a car lift or hydraulic jack, but I winced every time I air jacked the car and they slammed together. The solution was to design a new upper control arm which, in addition to solving the binding issue, increased droop by approximately one inch.

To make all of this work National Aerospace Standard (NAS) nuts, bolts and washers were used. Their hex heads are dimpled and shorter than Grade 8 or AN bolts. This reduces weight, enables them to fit in tighter spaces and utilizes tools that are typically one size smaller. Their finish is also a lot nicer. The downside is that there’s a lot of confusing specification nomenclature, they aren’t cheap and I haven’t found a supplier that makes it easy for a garage builder to procure them.

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The rocker is in Street Mode (the empty hole in the rocker is for Track Mode). Note that one camber shim is installed. You can see its removal tab protruding near the toe link.

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The anti-roll bar link is the light gray tube below the spring

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The TracTive dampers were too long to fit between the rocker and the rear chassis billet piece so they had to be cantilevered which required a three-piece bracket. In the photo above, the center bracket is machined from 7075, the top bracket is a 3D-printed prototype and the bottom bracket which isn’t visible is still being designed.

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My brakes are much larger than the stock ones and I had to machine the stock toe spacer and arm to clear the banjo fitting and even then, everything was exceptionally tight. As can be seen above, the new toe link configuration is elegant and provides gobs of space.

While the front suspension was spot on, the rear suspension upgrade was a massive amount of work and I still have a few small things to finish. The benefits of the rear upgrade include:
  • Active dampers; each corner’s rate is independently modulated with a 5ms response time
  • Adjusted rear rocker motion ratio from 2:1 to 1.5:1 for street mode and 1:1 for track mode, giving much improved damping control
  • Corrected rear roll center geometry, lowered by 70 mm (2.8”) which reduced jacking forces and improves handling
  • Increased droop by approximately 25 mm (1”)
  • Ability to quickly switch between street and track modes (i.e. change ride height and wheel rate)
  • Decreased anti-squat provides a slight improvement in traction and significantly more feel for what the rear is doing under acceleration
  • Shim-adjustable camber adjustment
  • Integral anti-roll bar mounts
  • Pushrod no longer binds on the upper control arm
  • Improved rotor cooling (upright enables rotor to be cooled from the center and tapped holes are provided for carbon fiber brake ducts)
  • Provision for wheel speed sensor wires to be routed in the upright
  • Increased toe link clearance for large brake packages
  • Rear toe link spacer to improve bump steer
  • Tapped holes to mount parking brake brackets
  • Motorsport-quality rod ends (high angle so they don't neck out at full droop of bump)
Cumulatively this results in a car that’s easier to adjust, is comfortable on the street and will perform better than many track-only SL-Cs.
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Scott, this thing is simply amazing. Each part is carefully planned out, then machined and then checked for final fit together. I like how you post each change you make, why you made it and the end result, followed by what you used to make it happen. Please continue to keep us updated.

Regards Brian
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
Thanks for the compliments. I've been trying to integrate the active dampers for two years and Henry from Chiron World Sports Cars is the one that finally made it happen. While I develop a lot of my own parts, I have no experience designing suspension parts and Henry is the genius behind this upgrade. I've helped with some aspects and have been working through some first version issues, but he's the one who had who had the chassis scanned, had a firm generate a 30+ suspension analysis report and then did all of the engineering. Like me he has multiple 3D printers to check fitment of parts before they are machined.
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
That’s awesome Scott. Do you have any idea when you might take a first drive ??
Anxiously awaiting to hear that thing fire up.
Keep up the excellent work.

Regards Brian
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
In another forum someone posted a good question which is worth answering here"

The bell crank looks like it’s gonna totally hit the chassis upright. How much jounce / rebound travel do you have from nominally loaded?

A lot of engineering went into these parts and absolutely nothing binds or hits. In those pictures the suspension is at full droop which is the minimum clearance between the bell crank and the billet chassis piece. Keep in mind that the suspension upgrade increases droop by about 1". With the stock suspension, the pushrod would have smashed into the upper control arm when the droop was 1" less than this point.

The concept of smashing reminded me that I hadn't previously mentioned that the dampers have engineered bump springs. With the stock dampers, your spring rate quickly becomes infinite at max compression because the spring coils are in contact with each other. Bump springs act like really stiff main springs that engage at a calculated point to provide a more progressive and manageable spring rate before max compression is reached. Apparently race teams spend a lot of time calculating these and even stacking them. Prior to this upgrade, I had added bump springs to my Penske's less the engineering (i.e., picking the correct durometer bump spring and cutting it to a calculated length).
 
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Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Scott has spent years doing testing and many many thousands of dollars in research and development. RCR could not incorporate what Scott has done and be at the dollar level they sell at currently. If you have really really deep pockets, they will build you your super car you desire. But it all comes at a HUGE cost. They have proven that on some of the builds they have done already. It all boils down to cubic dollars.
Congrats to Scott for researching and developing the car to the level it is. If Scott can’t buy what he needs, he research’s it and sometimes buys the equipment it takes to make the part and learns how to run it. Read his complete build. Just look at his headers alone. He tells somewhere how many feet of welds it took. He then flew them to England to be coated.
EVERYTHING on this build is the best of the best.

Regards Brian
 
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