Engine spec, comments appreciated.

[Charlie Farley]

I found this engine.
The unit has done approx 200 miles and been stored since for 12 /13 years.
Guys, any comments on likely issues i should be aware of, appreciated.I doubt its been turned regularly and so a question in my mind , is, what about surface corrosion in the cylinder bores/rocker gear.
Feel free to suggest other likely problems.

Engine Spec:

Ford 302 Windsor -

Pistons TR W 20th forged pop up high comp pistons, shot peened and magnafluxed con rods, chrome moly push rod and guide kit, genuine Billet Shelby Cobra cam and lifters, Harland sharp needle roller rockers 1.5 ratio. 351 Windsor heads, Manley valves (sodium) and guides - ports polished, Aluminium flywheel - brass insert, McCleod clutch and pressure plate, high rate oil pump - Cobra inlet manifold and 4 x 48 IDA Weber carburators. C/w 4 x K & Nair filters. Full dress up kit including Shelby deep cast aluminium sump - M/T aluminium tappet covers, front pulley kit for toothed belt. Dual point distributor. Milodon stud kit fitted. Motor fully balanced, rated approximately 470 BHP normally aspirated.


I know you guys will provide illuminating replies.
Regards.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Please find engine pic below:

 

[Andy Besic]

Charley,

I would view it as a very nice bunch of parts to start with that just happen to be put together. I would tear it down completely and re-build. Any items you choose not to use will likely have value in re-sale. I would be suspicious of a "quality" build that was quickly yanked and put in a corner for over a decade. Lots of nice stuff on it for a GT40 period motor, but also the potential for LOTS of headaches getting it running proper. My .02.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Andy,
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
What sort of value would you put on it,knowing its been sat for 12 years?
Is the stated power output reasonable for this engine?

 

[Howard Jones]

Well, I think this would be a nice motor IF..... you take it all apart, mark locations of valve train parts, pistons and the rest of the rotating assembly by cylinder number for reassembly. Measure everything, lightly hone the cylinders, do a nice new 3 angle valve job and put it all back together with new bearing and rings(if needed).

If you want to go the full monty then have it all checked for ballance.

The carbs will more than likely need some rework also.

DO NOT TRY AND TURN IT until you take it apart. Rust on the bores will not be kind to pistons and rings. Likewise in lifter bores and etc.

If its a good price then go for it. 470 HP from 300 inches is just about right using 12-13 year old head tech if it has a lot of cam and the CR is up there around 11 to 1 or better. You didn't mention CR ratio. The popup pistons make me think >11 to 1. This would be about the top limit on 91 octain.

If you can find out the CR ratio and cam specs it would help.

Oh and I don't like the purple but thats just me.

OH OH and lastly valve springs that sit for 10 years or so have been known to break when the engine is run again. If you have a piston/ valve interference issue or single springs then you surely don't want a broken spring killing the whole think. I would change the springs on rebuild.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Howard,
Thanks for your input. Yes, i agree about springs, not worth the risk.
Itll be interesting to see what it goes for, if im unsuccessful.
He says its been stored with oil in the bores for 12 years. We all know what the 'says' can mean.
Anyway, cheers for your help.

 

[Keith]

Hi Charley! I am assuming that this is a US motor (judging by the spec and parts etc.) and that you have to ship it here? If so, you may get a better deal on a "crate" motor from an established US supplier with some kind of back up. I guess it all depends on what price you're expected to pay. I would concur with other members that you would have to partially "rebuild" this motor after being so long idle, so if the deal was priced for an up an running ready-to-go motor, then I don't think it such a good deal, if you get my meaning. If it's cheap enough even with shipping etc. Then go for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

Trash the sodium filled valves, they have a bad rep for breaking and destroying an engine, Wayne

 

[Hellemans]

Hi

I suggest that you agree a price including a strip and rebuild by the original engine builder or if not available a specialist engine builder . The only way to cover your risks.

But we all agree: a nice looking engine!!!

Hellem