Brake Reservoir Update

[Mike]

Removed the stock Girling cans that leaked like sieves. Lots of soap & water, scrubbing, sanding, and repainting all chassis surfaces where the paint had lifted. Had new support bracket fabbed and mounted a three tank Tilton reservoir and had Pegasus make up three braided lines. Got everything mounted and bled tonight. Clutch circuit was nasty dirty after only 1000 miles. Brake circuits were pretty clean.

 

[Rich Roy]

No quality control continues from "Hi-Tec Auto" from Port Elizabeth, South Africa. I dealt with this issue 7 years ago on a SPF Daytona Cobra coupe, and many more issues. There objective is to slamb them together and get'em the hell on the boat! All comments seem to fall upon deaf ears with these goons. Although Lance Stander @ Superformance LA. does take it on the chin for those turkeys and does his best to get you back on track. Re-engineering 101.....do it your self to be sure its right!

 

[Ron R.]

Nice work.

 

[Mike]

Thank you. I have similar feelings my friends about quality and started another thread specifically about it. I'm hoping this one though can just be about a solution to one of short comings that I came up with. It's a fairly simple task and I have all the part numbers one needs if they wish to copy what I did. Thanks.

 

[Mike]

With the spoiler

 

[Kevin L]

Michael,

Nice solution. I went back and forth three times on doing a similar solution with that same reservoir. I really liked that you could check levels without taking the front clam off. I ended up doing the same concept as Steve C, plastic reservoirs in the original locations although after seeing your example I might have a bit of buyers remorse.

Did you seal up the three holes that the new hoses pass through? If not, you might consider it as that is a source for water entry.

I am looking forward to your other enhancements.

Kevin

 

[Mike]

Kevin, I ran the lines through rubber grommets but I would not consider anything on this car water tight. I never drive it in the rain anyway so not a huge problem for me.

 

[Seymour Snerd]

I would not consider anything on this car water tight.

Just to be sure you know, should you change your mind about that, or think you might get caught in a thunderstorm, Rick Muck sells a nice set of rubber gaskets that take care of the major water and hot-air leakage paths.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Very nice job Michael! I like it!

 

[Kevin L]

Kevin, I ran the lines through rubber grommets but I would not consider anything on this car water tight. I never drive it in the rain anyway so not a huge problem for me.

Fair point. I think you have a deeper nostril now which probably reduces the need for sealing it up but for those of us that have not fixed that part yet, it is also a source of heat. Before I filled all the holes in the front I would get a bath of hot radiator air through the footbox whenever I stood on the throttle. Sealing up the front end has helped dramatically.

Kevin

 

[John]

Michael,

When you installed the new reservoirs, how did you go from the existing two hose setup to a three hose affair?

-John

 

[Mike]

John, I'm sure I understand what you are asking? The 3 reservoir system works well since there are three master cylinders. One each for the front and rear brake circuits and one for the clutch. The modification that I had to make was to drill and then fit with an additional grommet, a hole through the front cabin wall. If that doesn't answer your question let me know.

 

[Kirby Schrader]

John, as per the pics I sent in the other thread, I actually used bulkhead AN4 fittings and ran braided lines on both sides of the bulkhead.

So, three braided lines from each brake master and the clutch master to the bulkhead fittings.
Then three more braided lines from the bulkhead fittings to the Tilton reservoir.

Yes, I had to drill another hole for the third line. I used washers on the bulkhead fittings for the larger holes that had grommets there before.

Here's where it goes through the firewall and then to the reservoir.

Kirby

 

[Mike]

I like the way you did that Kirby. Very clean. My Tilton setup has been leak free since it was installed. This is a have to have upgrade for SPF owners. It's not really that difficult to do nor expensive.

 

[Kirby Schrader]

I like the way you did that Kirby. Very clean. My Tilton setup has been leak free since it was installed. This is a have to have upgrade for SPF owners. It's not really that difficult to do nor expensive.

Thanks, Michael.
With the fire bottle and the coolant tank there already, it was sort of all I could come up with without dropping it too low.

Kirby

 

[Tim Kay]

Mike, any chance you have a picture of what the two bolts, holding the Tilton reservoir in place, secure to? I'm mounting mine in the same place and I'm curious what mount/bracket design I should make.

Thanks, Tim

 

[Mike]

Let me see what I have and if not I'll take one.

 

[Doug Dyar]

I'd like to relocate and replace my master cyl reservoirs with the Tilton unit on my rhd SPF MkII GT40.

I think this may be the right thread, but no pics?

I seem to remember a thread that provided details on hose length, part sources, etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[Randy V]

I put this aluminum reservoir in my street rod and it works really nice with no leaks. Similar ones are available from CNC and other companies. I would not recommend anything made of plastic for Brake Fluid..

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[DaveM]

I'd like to relocate and replace my master cyl reservoirs with the Tilton unit on my rhd SPF MkII GT40.

I think this may be the right thread, but no pics?

I seem to remember a thread that provided details on hose length, part sources, etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Look at what Kirby did in his Oct. 2012 post above. Admittedly he has a lot going on there with the fire bottle and water hoses. I did single plastic reservoirs and hung them off the square tubing supporting the nose. For hose and parts check pegasusautoracing.com.