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Is hard-mounting these coolers directly to the chassis a good idea?

Everything you need to know right here. I learned how to TIG with an Eastwood unit in order to build the front spoiler on my 69 Firebird. Sold that a few years ago and decided to buy a Prime Tig unit from Jodie's site at xmas time. I'll use it to do my bundle of snakes...

What are you using to bond your panels back together?

Perfect! I'm hoping that some that are able to attend the GT40 Reunion will take lots of pictures as well to be used as reference for those of us that can't attend and have projects that need lots of help!

I wish, but probably not in the cards for me. Hopefully there are a few owners that document the whole thing with lots of reference photos.

If my car was done, I would load it up and head that way....but that wont be for a couple of years!

Anyone from Iowa on here? I'm located on Iowa's east coast (Quad Cities) and have been chipping away at a Active Performance project for a year now.

I have a FI Prestige 363 in my 66 fastback. It was dynoed at the shop prior to shipment. After I got it installed, we ran into a few problems initially that traced back to the throttle body. Recently, I started having problems with what we thought was the O2 sensor. Prestige helped me out with...

I had heard that the new owners were going to tweak the chassis a little. This is my 3rd car project, with my previous builds being frame-off street/track builds (1969 Firebird and a 1966 Mustang FB). I was so frustrated with this thing a few months ago that I actually put it up for sale! A...

I bought mine 18 months ago from Chris (the original owner). He had mine done in 6 months.

I am finding there are lots of things with the AP body that need to be re engineered!

Refitting the rockers…the underside of the lip will need to be worked down a little since it is now fatter than shipped due to the extra epoxy and 1708 layer. The alignment pins now sit below the top of the rocker. The receiver on the clam now dictates the panel gap. I came up with a simple way...

Rear curves in about 3/8”…front appears straight.

Correct, at least this side curves in at the rear tire end (I'll have to check the front tire end). I noticed this when I was trying to mark it to cut off the excess epoxy. I realized that the area over the frame will need to be straight, but the outside top of the rocker isn't.

Final trim isn’t done yet, but much better than before….since it will be visible when the rear clam is lifted.

I’m pleased with how this turned out. Once it gets trimmed down evenly, it will cover the frame rail underneath.

Fortified epoxy and a layer of 1708. I’ll be able to trim down to 2 1/16” when I pull it off the mold.

What are your panel gaps set at? Those look great!

It looks like a 3rd grader trimmed and installed my rockers prior to shipping. The top edge was terribly uneven, too narrow, and warped in the rear clam-spider area. In order to widen the tops, I thought it would be best to remove the warpage so that the extended edge would be as flat as...

As delivered, the front clam locating pin would only be attached to the top of the rocker (1/8” of fiberglass). I decided to weld a mounting tab extension to the frame for a more ridged mount for the pin.