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Good point, maybe the stalk on the column is just a high beam dimmer?

Directional signals most likely.

I agree Howard, thx!

Solid advice Lee, thx My wiring appears adequate and the motors are functioning well in spite of running hot, but I’ll spend some time with a VOM and a laser thermometer tomorrow to be on the safe side.

Howard, great response, very detailed as usual! The fuse panel is actually mounted above the foot box under an aluminum cover, so the wire run is only a few feet at most, with the exception of the manual switch on the instrument panel. The fans are protected by a 20 amp fuse and what appears to...

I’m just now getting my car back up and running after an extended hiatus to correct a number of things that needed correction. The cooling system required a major upgrade, as it was never going to function efficiently the way it was configured by the original owner/builder. There were so many...

A nice deal for someone. I just bought that same pan for my car a handful of months ago and paid full retail. A word of advice to whomever buys it, if it’s going on a stroker motor, check rotational clearance carefully with the gasket in place. My 392W lightly touched the scraper in two places...

Very nice Andrew, looks like great GT40 driving weather… :cool:

From what I’ve come across on searches, winching it in seems to be the preferred method, either straight in or backed in. I’ve also seen where some folks remove the driver’s door. And one nut (me) climbed out (and back in) through the part opened roof opening… fortunately, I was still fairly...

I assume you’re looking for the fill cap to fit this type of twist lock opening? I’ve been searching high and low for them, with no luck. I’m actually surprised they aren’t readily available.

Vinny, my car is a much older build, so, much could have changed at RCR at this point.

I think mine came from RCR, but I don’t know for sure.

I think it’s very dependent on how the pipes are configured. I have a 351W based motor and my pipes have good clearance to the clam.

Interesting that they can be adjusted, first I’ve seen like that. I’d agree that a light snugging to remove the little bit of play should be sufficient.

Nice work Mike, reassembling it all should be great fun… ;) I would suggest a stud kit for the pan, it would make it easier for you to align the gaskets and pan working from underneath like that. I used a Canton Racing kit from Summit. CTR-22-360.

Mike, you might want to give Dennis Olthoff a call, or someone else with lots of SPF experience, he can probably recommend the best way for you to proceed.

No free lunch? :cool:

You don’t ever need to apologize for posting eye candy… ;)

The tubes definitely appear to be CRS material, no idea what grade of CRS though. My tubes are wrapped with Kevlar header wrap.