Recent content by Big-Foot

Very cool video! I know that must’ve taken a bunch of time too!..

Cooling wasn’t really one of my issues, other than trying to contain warpage. My Miller Dynasty 200DX AC TIG and air-cooled torch would not generate the heat needed for proper aluminum welds on my RCR. I had to add supplemental heat with MAP gas torch.

It would have been interesting had the balljoint pin been factory offset a few millimeters so that rotating the housing would allow caster/camber fine tuning…. I have seen something like that on some replacement balljoints for 4wd vehicles..

Chuck, your work here and on anything else you’ve shared with us, is absolutely top notch! Are you still working (you know - that job thing) ? I try to not over-comment on builds, but rest assured I consume every post and appreciate them a lot!

You better get lots and lots of practice on the same thickness and alloy aluminum before you attack that chassis with a welder like that. I’ve been welding for over 50 years and I don’t think I would be comfortable taking a spool gun to the RCR chassis without a ton of practice first…

You can powder coat JB Weld - I’ve done it…. Another option is to buy aluminum or brass pipe plugs, drill and tap the holes - JBWeld on the threads, grind down the excess..

You mean this post (44) ?? https://www.gt40s.com/threads/whos-attending-the-2024-gt-reunion.57697/page-3

Nothing wrong with that iron block…. It’s a great block. Shell Rotella 15w40 T6 is what I used in competitions and never an oil related problem.

For street use, I think a good full synthetic 10w30 would be just fine. 15w40 full synthetic would be my likely choice for any sort of endurance or competition.. If it is a flat tappet camshaft and followers, I’d get some extra ZDDP (Zinc) in there Regardless of use (street or track).

That second picture shows an epoxy filled coil. Mountable in any position.

That’s awesome Randy!!!

Awesomeness with the Milky Way shot!